no start - electrical problem

[Rick]

Ok, I looked around and found some good information, but any add'l input on this is appreciated.

Problem: bike will not start. No click, no sound whatsoever. Lights come on fine, including neutral light. Checked battery - appx. 12.5v, and appx. 11.5 with key on. No change in voltage when starter button pressed. Checked voltage at starter relay connector (B/W and Y/B wires from harness) - no voltage. Checked voltage at side stand switch connector and it appears to be low with stand down (.8 with stand up, .88 with stand down). I'm not sure how to test the actual switches, as I'm not very familiar with using a multimeter, but I did jump the side stand switch and it wouldn't start. So I don't think it's the side stand switch.

History: a couple years ago, turn signals started working intermittently. About 1 in every 10 starts signals would not work for the first minute or 2, then worked fine. More recently (about 2 months ago), the starting problem started happening intermittently, it would start fine maybe 7 out of 10 times, but now I get nothing at all.

I'm guessing that it's the side stand/turn signal relay, but I'm no mechanic and before I start replacing stuff I'd like to hear what you experienced guys think. Also, I'm not exactly understanding the repair manual instruction for testing the side stand relay. Any input on how to do that would be great.

Thanks
Rick

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Rick

Checked battery - appx. 12.5v, and appx. 11.5 with key on. No change in voltage when starter button pressed.

Easiest and most likely things first.

Start button switch. Most likely cause, actually.
If it's the side stand switch, it still should start in neutral and/or with the clutch pulled in.

Your observed voltage drop with just the ignition on sounds like a little too much......but it might be normal and doesn't really enter into your present problem.

[Rick]

Ok, definitely no start with clutch in or neutral. Do you know if there is a way to test the starter button?

[Water Warrior 2]

Give the side stand switch a shot of WD-40 whether it needs it or not. Work the little plunger a few times. Next you will want to check the clutch safety switch. There is a switch mounted on the clutch handle perch that has to be checked for proper contact. Normally they will just come unplugged enough to cause grief.
Also give the start button a shot of contact cleaner.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Rick

Do you know if there is a way to test the starter button?

Yes. You need a meter and a wiring diagram; shop manual available here for download.

[Water Warrior 2]

I should have asked before but never thought of it. Does the headlight go out when you try to start the bike ? The starter button is a dual function switch serving the starter and headlight. When you push the button the headlight power is interupted and the starter is powered up. If the headlight does not go out when pushing the button I would be suspicious of that button. Drown it in contact cleaner and keep working the button with the key off. Could just be a lot of corrosion in there. Also work the red kill switch a lot. They are both out there exposed to the elements everyday.

[alantf]

Originally Posted by Water Warrior

If the headlight does not go out when pushing the button I would be suspicious of that button.

Whoops........ I think you're wrong about this. The Geezer headlight doesn't cut out when the button is pressed. Must be some other bike you're thinking of.

[Rick]

Thanks for the tips. I do have a meter but am pretty green on using it. The manual has detailed instructions on testing some parts but not others. For the switch should I just touch the contacts and test for voltage?

[alantf]

Originally Posted by Rick

I do have a meter but am pretty green on using it. For the switch should I just touch the contacts and test for voltage?

No..... Test from the "live" side of the switch to negative (the bike frame is at negative potential) There should be a voltage of at least 12v if the battery is fully charged. If you get a voltage, then test from the "dead" side of the switch to negative. There should be no voltage. Get someone to press the button, and if it is o.k. the meter will show a voltage again. If it stops at zero, then the switch is faulty. BTW, make sure the meter is set for d.c. voltage, not a.c.

[Water Warrior 2]

Originally Posted by alantf

Whoops........ I think you're wrong about this. The Geezer headlight doesn't cut out when the button is pressed. Must be some other bike you're thinking of.

Oops is right. I stand corrected. It's been a while since we had a GZ in the stable.