Trouble starting all the time

[skookum]

I am having a hard time starting my GZ 250 consistently. I just replaced the spark plug and purged the carb with cleaner. The bike fired up on the third try but then wouldn't start again after I parked it.

I always start the bike with the choke half on unless the bike has been warmed up. The problem started about a year ago. I have not been putting a lot of miles on the bike since then because it is unreliable. When I turn the key on everything looks good but the starter just turns over like it's not receiving a spark. I tried turning the key to off and then on, at first this would fix the problem and the bike would start right up but recently it seems as if I have to turn the key on and off at least 20+ times before it will spark. Once it starts there are no problems the bike runs great, no lag sputter or anything. Turn it off and it wont start again.

I am not always successful at starting the bike before it floods out or runs the battery down. I have to wait about 30 minutes before I try it again.

Seems like a short but I'm not sure where :??:

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by skookum

and purged the carb with cleaner.

I always start the bike with the choke half on unless the bike has been warmed up.

What exactly does "purged the carb with cleaner" mean ??
Did you drain the bowl in the process ??
You could have a weak battery causing it not to turn over fast enough and making the spark weak.

I think you need:
More choke when cold.
Maybe a little faster idle speed too.
Some carb cleaner IN the gas.
After running it down a couple of times, probably a new battery too.
AND......do NOT touch the throttle until it actually fires up. Opening the throttle defeats the choke.

[5th_bike]

With my choke, "half on" means it doesn't do anything yet. When you move the choke lever (from "off"), about halfway you will feel the resistance increase, that is where the choke effect starts.

I always start with full choke. After it starts, turn it down a bit to reduce the high idle revs. Drive off and gradually reduce it more, until it's completely off, usually within a mile.

[alanmcorcoran]

I'm the anti-mechanic on here (or whatever you call someone with zero mechanical knowlege) but I wanted to note: you will develop the very symptoms you describe if you don't "put a lot of miles" on the bike. The GZ is very susceptible to getting gunked up with disuse. If you don't ride it at least once a week, and every once in a while put eighty or so miles on it, it will gradually fall into a state of sluggish to piss-poor performance. Although I think the chief culprit here is the carburetor, some of the other parts (emission canister, valves, overfilled oil, etc.) can contribute. About a year ago mine was screwed up enough that it would stall at nearly every light and got to the point where it was unrideable. Took three trips to the dealer to get it set right and it's been running well every since. Although I can't say for sure what fixed it, I believe that it was mostly cloggage of the carb. Since then, I have been conscientious about taking it out for a decent ride at least every couple weeks and it has continued to run like it did when new.

I also always start with near full choke unless I am restarting after having already ridden it somewhere. I back mine off to nothing after about 3-4 miles.

[skookum]

Thanks to all the above advice but I'm sure it's not the carb or the battery. I Just purchased a new battery two months ago. I keep it fully charged and check it regularly because it does have a tendency to be drawn down when I crank it over so often. I also ran a can of carb cleaner and gunk out through the tank. I also drained the bowl. Not a problem idling when is starts, runs regular, and smooth. I turn the choke off with in a minute or so after it warms up. No sput, sputter, or roughness in the engine.

[alantf]

Right........ let me go off at a tangent to what everyone else has suggested. I'm suggesting that it might (just MIGHT) be the red kill switch that's the problem. I get this, very occasionally. When it won't start, try pushing the kill switch on and off, 5 or 6 times. The switch is prone to getting dirt in the contacts, & flicking it on & off several times usually (always?) works for me. If this isn't the problem, you've lost nothing by trying, & if it does work you've found the answer. :2tup:

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by skookum

Not a problem idling when is starts, runs regular, and smooth.

OK, that leaves only one logical conclusion: You need more choke and NO throttle to get it started reliably.

The logical conclusion is not always right.......but you should not ignore it just because it sounds too simple.

[blaine]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

OK, that leaves only one logical conclusion: You need more choke and NO throttle to get it started reliably.

May need some troubleshooting to see if choke is even operating
:2tup:

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by blaine

May need some troubleshooting to see if choke is even operating

That might be a good point.

Something in his messages made me think that there was an indication that the choke IS working......but that's another one of them dangerous ASSumptions !! :biggrin:

Also, depending on what brand of carb cleaner he used, another pass at that might be in order.......with a different one.

[skookum]

OK, a little more information as to the symptoms I'm experiencing. Just started the bike and rode around the neighborhood for about 10-15 minutes. Bike started up third time after turning key off then on. No problems although it would sometimes stall at the stop signs. No problem just adjusted the choke up to idle. Every-time the bike stopped I restarted the bike immediately with the starter. Stalled only when idling and not a abnormal stall, just a slight sputter then fired right back up. Pulled into the drive stalled the bike on purpose restarted then rolled into the garage. Just to test my theory I turned the key to off and then tried to restart. Guess what, no starty no starty again. Something is not connecting and the source seem to be related to ignition switch. Could their be a short in this, and if so can I go around the switch (hot wire) to test the theory? I'm no expert with electrical trouble but that does seem to be the direction ever thing is pointing.