Effects of oil below "L"

[alanmcorcoran]

On the way in today the bike felt kind of balky, power was a bit uneven, wasn't shifting consistently, didn't seem to settle into its post warm-up groove. Since I didn't have the formal "600" mile service done (I brought the bike back to the dealer at about 350 and they went through it then - no oil change though) I thought it was high time I checked the oil level (I'm almost at 2K.) In my office parking lot, I discovered that, unless I'm at home in the garage with the overhead trouble light in hand, the bike propped up to horizontal, and me hunched over on one knee to get the right angle through my tri-focals, I really can't see $hit as far as the oil level goes.

I checked it as descibed above when I got back home and could see just a glimmer of oil down in the bottom of the glass. Headed off to Manny. Moe & Jack's for some Valvoline 10W40 (non energy, non-synthetic) and ended up pouring in about a fifth of a quart before the level was midway between F and L.

I haven't heard any tapping. I was wondering, not having any prior experience with a transmission that uses the motor oil, what the effect on being down about 10% is on the overall operation?

Also, any tricks other than pour, guess and check as far as getting to the proper level? (Assuming you are topping off, not doing an oil change.) I ran the bike for a minute or two in between just to be sure it was all warm and circulatin'

And finally, has anyone ever ordered the filter and O rings on-line? If so, how did it work out as opposed to riding to the dealer?

[patrick_777]

As far as ordering online, go to bikebandit.com and get a couple of filters and o-rings shipped for under $10. The best buy I've found yet.

So, if I'm understanding your post, you're still on original oil? Not good, man.

Just running a little down shouldn't hurt much unless you do it for a long time and/or run it bone dry for any time at all. Tapping, hard shifting and power fall-offs are all signs that it's past time to change the oil.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by patrick_777

Just running a little down shouldn't hurt much unless you do it for a long time and/or run it bone dry for any time at all. Tapping, hard shifting and power fall-offs are all signs that it's past time to change the oil.

:plus1:

Are we gonna have to find you a "bike nanny" to make sure you do the required maintenance ??

Bad boy, Alan !! :skull:

PS --I've heard that a telescoping inspection mirror for about $5 makes checking the oil a LOT easier. That way, you can do it while seated on the bike.

PPS-- Not only does the bike need to be level side-to-side but it needs to be level front to back too.

[alanmcorcoran]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Are we gonna have to find you a "bike nanny" to make sure you do the required maintenance ??

Where can I get such a thing? (I had to marry the car nanny.)

[Water Warrior 2]

Shame on you Alan. You are spending too much time riding. Try a little TLC on the bike(slap on the wrist). Fresh oil and a filter should cure what ills the bike has. We both have a little ritual before riding our bikes. Check all the lights and oil before starting it up. This may sound silly but it is for general safety and you always know if the oil level is creeping down. If you ride every day check the tire pressure every 2 weeks and do a visual inspection weekly for cuts, abrasions and nails. Was looking at the 2 day old rear tire on the VStrom and discovered a nail( go figure). Develope some pre-ride rituals and you will never be left stranded.

[alanmcorcoran]

Maintenance has never been my strong suit. I did better with the road bicycle - always pumped the tires, and oiled the chain, but other than making sure I had spare tubes and such, the things didn't really need much maintenance. My wife takes the cars in for brakes, tires and services. I'm not opposed to maintenance, quite the contrary, just not that inclined to do it myself. I've located all of the necessary elements to do an oil change, and even picked up a combo drain pan, oil jug at the Pep boys. Still might take it to a dealer for the oil change but, if I can get the filter and o rings without a shopping odyssey (don't like shopping either) it's well within my mechanical comfort zone.

[alanmcorcoran]

Originally Posted by patrick_777

As far as ordering online, go to bikebandit.com and get a couple of filters and o-rings shipped for under $10. The best buy I've found yet.

Would this be the right part? Any idea of the part # for the O rings?

http://www.bikebandit.com/product/A3191574

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by alanmcorcoran

Where can I get such a thing? (I had to marry the car nanny.)

It's much like a "prison wife". Still interested ??? :shocked: :haha2:

[alanmcorcoran]

Not sure if I'm the wife or the husband, but either way, probably not. The good news is that on the way in today the bike seeme dot be back to it's original self. Might be psychological, but I don't think so. As soon as I can conveniently acquire a filter and the O rings, I'm going to change the oil completely.

I have to work my way up to these things. I didn't exercise at all until I was 35. By then, I was in seriously bad condition. Eventually I developed some self-discipline and ended up being in much better shape in my 40's than I was in my 20's. I'll come around on the bike stuff eventually. I'm a slow learner.

[patrick_777]

That's the right part you listed from Bikebandit, but I can't find any aftermarket o-rings on their site. It's silly, but you'll have to go with OEM o-rings, which they also sell. Their part numbers are as follows:

472133-001 OEM Big Filter o-ring - $2.79 each
472006-001 OEM Small Filter o-ring - $0.91 each

You can get them from cheapcycleparts.com for about $0.20 cheaper each but their filter price will make up the difference.

Or you could just not change the o-rings. Unless they're ragged, they'll probably be okay.