Start Up Problem

[longumd]

Jump start doesn't worked out...

Again I got my battery charged (12.7V), then tried to start just using the motorcycle battery. The same as yesterday, it is one second of B, then A....

So I got the jump start cable connected, my car is not running at all and I even did not insert my car's key in. After getting it connected, the voltage that my car's battery provided it ~12.8V. Then I press the start button more than 10 times, it is all A. I don't see my light get's dim during all these trys.

So I gave up as it's going to rain, the bike's battery is not 12.2V.

Is it an issue with my starter motor?

This reminds me the first time my bike has starting issue. It was after a really heavy rain and my bike did not get convered since I'm out of town. The following few days I attempt to start it several times, it is very similar to the situation now, one or several seconds of B, then all A. I finally got it started on a sunny day, but since then, it's a pain everytime I try to start my bike.

Could it be some parts getting wet? There are series of rains recently.

[Gz Rider]

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[Water Warrior 2]

Just a thought. The rain might have added just a bit of extra corrosion to the starter cables and/or contacts. I also agree with tapping the stater with a rubber mallet. Just don't get carried away and really whack it hard.

[5th_bike]

Another thought - corrosion at cable contacts. I don't know where the starter motor cables all exactly connect but, if you have enough voltage at the source (car battery) then somewhere in the circuit could be a bad/corroded contact that prevents the starter motor form getting enough current.

There are at least seven places where the corrosion/bad connection could be:
1) connection to the battery
2+3) two connections at the starter relay
4) one contact inside the starter relay
5+6) two connections at the fuse box
7) connection from fuse box to battery.

I don't know (and too lazy to figure it out) if the two cables from the starter are in one unit with it or it they connect at the starter motor, that would be +2.

My car once had trouble starting,5 years ago or so, all I got was clicks from the starter relay (maybe someone would be willing to to record that sound for the GZ250 [hint, hint]). It was a bad connection of the +12V at the battery itself. Cleaned it, sanded it, reconnected it - no problem to date.

edit 1: addition
edits 2-4: typos

[Gz Rider]

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[longumd]

Thank you all again.

I not sure exactly where and how I should tap the starter motor. It is covered, right? And to clean contact of the starter side, I need to remove that cover?

[longumd]

Still, I guess a new battery is a must, right?

[blaine]

Originally Posted by longumd

Still, I guess a new battery is a must, right?

Yes,a new battery is needed.As for your starter,just tap lightly on the outer case.
:cool:

[alantf]

Originally Posted by 5th_bike

I don't know (and too lazy to figure it out) if the two cables from the starter are in one unit with it or it they connect at the starter motor, that would be +2.

Sorry,but this just comes across as gibberish to me You obviously know what you mean, but it's a bit unintelligible. (BTW, there's only one cable coming from the starter) Can you take a deep breath & rephrase it? :2tup:

[5th_bike]

Originally Posted by alantf

(...there's only one cable coming from the starter) Can you take a deep breath & rephrase it? :2tup:

Oh, that means - the ground connection of the starter is the frame. And now of course I had to go into the cold garage (near freezing tonight, tomorrow there will be 10 to 15 cm of snow...) to check things out.

So the connections are (chances of a bad connection in parentheses)
1) +12V (red cable) at battery (pretty high)
2) +12V (red cable) at starter relay (low, well protected by the cap on the relay)
3+4) 20A fuse connections in the starter relay (low, take fuse out, put it back in and you should be good to go)
4) starter motor cable (black) at the starter relay (low, protected by cap)
5) starter motor cable at the starter, under the rubber cap (could be corroded)
6) connections of starter motor to engine (two of them, should be good)
7) connections of engine to frame (should be OK as well)
8) connection of black battery cable at frame (unknown, probably OK)
9) connection of black battery cable at battery (unknown)

If you have a multimeter, that would help. For instance, you could measure the resistance between the starter motor body and the black (0V) pole (the lead itself) of the battery. That should be near zero ohms, in which case no.s 6 through 9 are eliminated.