Crankcase filled with fuel...help!!

[Rococo]

Guys, I had the same problem with the fuel mixed with the oil. Check your petcock valve diaphragm before.
I just replace the hole piece and the problem is solved.
I hope this help!
Good luck.

[tcrave]

Ok, I have taken the petcock apart, nothing looks wrong with it, but obviously something is, so I will have to experiment some more I guess. I emptied all the fuel and oil out of the crankcase, emptied the oil out of the air filter box, and took the spark plug out. I then cranked it over several times and nothing came out of the spark plug hole. I am guessing that all the fluids leaked all the way down to the crank case...I let the bike sit for several days. I left if all apart for the past few days just to let the fuel dry out as much as possible.

I think my next plan of action is to put a minimum amount of fuel in the tank and hook the petcock back on and see what happens. If I can't get that part to work, then no point in messing with the rest. I need to get that problem fixed first.

However, I have a question. I went to pick up some more mobile 1 synthetic oil and its $9 a quart. Money is getting tight for me right now and I really don't want to waste all the oil. Since I have drained all fuel and oil out and will be changing the oil filter, can I just put regular motorcycle oil back in now? If nothing else, use regular oil until I get it running, then change it back to synthetic later after I know everything is fine.

[blaine]

You can use Shell Rotella-T.It is reasonable priced & safe for your clutch.
:cool: :2tup:

[Water Warrior 2]

Originally Posted by blaine

You can use Shell Rotella-T.It is reasonable priced & safe for your clutch.
:cool: :2tup:

Rotella T will work great or you can use the cheaper Rotella dino oil. Both bikes love the stuff and it is a 15-40 which will not do any harm whatsoever. Both are certified for motorcycle use.

[JWR]

Originally Posted by Gz Rider

Do not put anything other than the recommended oils in this bike. Incorrect oils can mess up the oil lubricated clutch and give you a whole new problem to deal with.

With regard to money, if you don't have it this won't help but try to think of it like this. This bike gets stunning gas mileage when working properly and can save you tons in gas costs. Also, you are saving hundreds just by fixing this problem yourself. You should be able to find oil at 4-5 per quart (almost as cheap as automotive).

Oils of heavier consistency than 10w30 are not required to have additives to reduce friction which might cause clutch slippage. Most all motorcycle manufacturers recommend an oil viscosity of heavier than 10w30 as the standard oil for their products.

As long as the oil does not say energy conserving it will not hurt the clutches.
All 10w40, 15w40, 15w50 oils are O.K.
As mentioned Shell Rotella 15w40 dino oil is used by a lot of motorcycle riders.

JASO is an acronym that stands for "The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization." Among other things, they set standards for oil to be used in motorcycles.

Shell Rotella T 15W-40 conventional oil now lists on its packaging JASO MA as one of the specifications it meets, as does the Rotella website product page:

[tcrave]

Originally Posted by blaine

You can use Shell Rotella-T.It is reasonable priced & safe for your clutch.
:cool: :2tup:

Thanks! Where do you find that stuff? The only stuff I could find at the local Wal-Mart is Mobile 1 and Valvoline, both $8-9/quart. Not really sure where else to look. I work at Target and I know we don't have any, I have looked at Autozone and O'Reilly's and I don't remember seeing anything like that there. The Suzuki dealership went out of business, unfortunately, but there is a Honda dealership....however they are usually overpriced on everything.

[tcrave]

Originally Posted by Gz Rider

Do not put anything other than the recommended oils in this bike. Incorrect oils can mess up the oil lubricated clutch and give you a whole new problem to deal with.

With regard to money, if you don't have it this won't help but try to think of it like this. This bike gets stunning gas mileage when working properly and can save you tons in gas costs. Also, you are saving hundreds just by fixing this problem yourself. You should be able to find oil at 4-5 per quart (almost as cheap as automotive).

See, thats the thing, I originally switched to synthetic oil because I was having troubles shifting into first, however I found out later than the bike is just not sychro'd for first gear and this is a common problem. I really didn't notice much, if any, difference between synthetic and regular oil. I read the manual for the bike and it says as long as it is 10w-40 and recommended for motorcycles, it is fine. It didn't say anything about synthetic vs. regular. However, my buddy is a diesel mechanic and is very knowledgeable about gasoline cars as well and he said never put regular oil back in a bike that has had synthetic oil in it.

I have the money, I just don't want to spend it. I don't like spending money unless absolutely necessary. If I need to spend the money, I will, I would just rather save a few bucks if possible. I would be okay at $4-5 a quart, I just don't like spending $9/quart.

[tcrave]

Originally Posted by JWR

Oils of heavier consistency than 10w30 are not required to have additives to reduce friction which might cause clutch slippage. Most all motorcycle manufacturers recommend an oil viscosity of heavier than 10w30 as the standard oil for their products.

As long as the oil does not say energy conserving it will not hurt the clutches.
All 10w40, 15w40, 15w50 oils are O.K.
As mentioned Shell Rotella 15w40 dino oil is used by a lot of motorcycle riders.

JASO is an acronym that stands for "The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization." Among other things, they set standards for oil to be used in motorcycles.

Shell Rotella T 15W-40 conventional oil now lists on its packaging JASO MA as one of the specifications it meets, as does the Rotella website product page:

Thanks! So what are your thoughts on switching back to regular oil after using synthetic? do you think it is okay or should one stay clear of that?

[JWR]

Originally Posted by tcrave

Thanks! So what are your thoughts on switching back to regular oil after using synthetic? do you think it is okay or should one stay clear of that?

Sure it is O.K.
I believe that oil is slick.
Brand name means nothing to me.
I have a 1992 Geo Prism with 249,000 miles on it, I have used different oils in it with no problems.

I don't know why you could not find any Shell oil at your Wal-mart, I have never been in a Wal-Mart that didn't stock it.

[Water Warrior 2]

You might find Shell Rotella at a truck stop. It is a common oil for big rigs. Auto parts stores usually carry it. As for switching back to a conventional oil after using a synthetic you can stop worrying. On a couple of other forums I inhabit the riders have switched back and forth with oil with no ill effects. My Vstrom had Amsoil in it for 4 years before switching to conventional Rotella to save a lot of money. Amsoil popped up to $20 a U.S quart here in the GWN. $14 was acceptable but $20 is retarded.