Power loss

[1Rogue]

Well I did it...
I replaced the spark plug (the original in there was very loose so I thought that might be the the skipping problem). Broke down the entire carb and cleaned it, as well as adjusted the float level. Changed to a 16t sprocket. Did the needle shim. And Finally sprayed out the petcock screens with air to make sure they were clean.

I got it out on the road and couldn't get it over 35. So I broke it back down and found the edge of diaphragm was kinked and put it all back together

I hit the road got it up into 5th gear and... it is still skipping. :cuss: So, I just got home kicked the tires a few times and said a few (ok, alot) choice words at it and gave up. There is a bike shop in the next town over I may take it to. Hopefully they can find find the problem and it will be cheap. Can't afford to spend much more on it till next month. I think I've gotten and addressed everyone's ideas and I just don't have a clue what else it could be unless it is electrical and then I am really clueless.

Jonathan - your measurements are: 16.2 cm around the outside and 5 cm across the center.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by 1Rogue

I think I've gotten and addressed everyone's ideas and I just don't have a clue what else it could be unless it is electrical and then I am really clueless.

What about this one.....from a previous post:
You've just about got me stumped now. The only thing I have left is a real long shot.
I have seen cases where an arching plug wire or boot will only affect performance at (relatively) high RPM and under load. Do you have a garage or other VERY dark place?
Fire it up and LOOK for corona discharge around the plug and wire.

After that, I give up too.

[1Rogue]

I went to a bike shop today and spoke to one of the mechanics. He said it sounded like 5th gear may be going out and to change the oil and see if metal was in the oil. I did, (no metal) when I took out the oil plug a large spring and what looks like a metal plug of some sort, both which appear to be part of the oil plug area, fell out after. These did not appear in the manual or in the description on how to change the oil. They fell out in a way that I couldn't tell how they went back. Can anyone tell me how these go back in? I put them back in the way they looked like they may go (spring, then metal plug then oil plug bolt), but then it wouldn't start. I hope I didn't mess anything up.

Easy Rider I read your last post and was going to try it after I changed the oil and it got dark out. Haven't quite got that far yet.

[Dupo]

I don't ever remember a spring and a plug falling out or being anywhere near the oil plug drain. Better check engine schematics layout and see where the heck that fell from.

[1Rogue]

This is it. The metal slug and spring above the bolt. Anyone seen this before? I hadn't seen anything like it before. In the book it is called the gearshift cam stopper :??: It looks like I had it in the right spot just not the right arrangement. And the reason it wouldn't start :blush: low battery. Now I can continue on with the original problem.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by 1Rogue

This is it. The metal slug and spring above the bolt. Anyone seen this before? ..................And the reason it wouldn't start :blush: low battery. Now I can continue on with the original problem.

After consulting the service manual and inspecting the bottom of my engine (I haven't changed my oil yet), it would appear that the reason nobody else has seen those parts is that most people don't remove that bolt because it is NOT the oil drain plug. :roll:

The oil drain plug is in the middle of the "sump cover" which is not in your picture because it has been removed......along with the drain plug.

Thanks for sharing this 'cause I might have done the same thing without the benifit of your experience!

And now back to the movie...........
It is possible that a charging system problem (or bad battery) is causing your original complaint. Not likely but possible. In the process of checking that out, be sure to check the main cable connections, both at the battery and at the other ends.

Oh yea....and I think the "mechanics" idea that 5th gear is "going out" is a bunch of crap. It is possible that the clutch is slipping in 5th only where the load is greater but your original description didn't sound like that. You do have a tiny bit of free-play in the clutch cable, don't you?

[1Rogue]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

After consulting the service manual and inspecting the bottom of my engine (I haven't changed my oil yet), it would appear that the reason nobody else has seen those parts is that most people don't remove that bolt because it is NOT the oil drain plug. :roll:

The oil drain plug is in the middle of the "sump cover" which is not in your picture because it has been removed......along with the drain plug.

Thanks for sharing this 'cause I might have done the same thing without the benefit of your experience!

:oops:
You know, I wondered about that, and why they made this bolt so hard to get to with everything around it. But, all the oil came out so I assumed it was the right one. Oh well, live and learn. Maybe others can benefit from my mistake, or at least get a little laugh out of it.

I'm going to check for the corona discharge you mentioned tonight, and I'll check the battery connections at that time as well. I'm pretty sure the battery was weak because I had forgotten and left the key on for a while earlier that afternoon. I pretty much dismissed the 5th gear idea when the oil came up clean and I talked to the previous owner and he said he saw nothing in the previous change right before I got it from him. (He also mentioned never seeing a spring and metal slug come out after the oil plug...go figure.)

If nothing else, I found a Suzuki dealer with a service dept. about 30 min ride from the house I may take the bike to on Saturday. I think I am going to avoid the bike shop service dept that suggested the 5th gear failure.

[1Rogue]

Update:

Some dealerships really bite! :cuss: Well, I took my GZ in to see if they could diagnose the ongoing prob. They said it would be $75 to diagnose it and if they could fix it in that same hour it would be no extra charge except parts or they would call me and see if I wanted to pay extra if it would take longer. They kept it for a week then called me and told me three different things.

There is nothing wrong with the bike. Then, there is no hesitation in fifth. Then, oh...that, thats how these bike react to those speeds. The rest of the time was spent getting me off the phone or out of the building. :curse:

Then renewed faith: I found another dealer and called to see if they could at least check my electrical since the first shop said they cleaned the carb and adjusted the valves and everything was to spec. He said he could do it all day but why don't I explain the problem and see if could give me some ideas. I did. He said to please bring it in and he would have a technician ride it and see if he could diagnose it. I asked what that charge would be after being burned the last time and he said "why would he charge to ride it...thats fun!" So I did. He had a mechanic ride it for about 15 minutes and was pretty sure he had it figured out in about 30 min total. From everything he saw and felt it had to be the clutch starting to go out (probable a warped plate) and it would be $125-250 depending on if it is a plate or the whole clutch needs replacing. They said that while you are hitting the same rpm at all gears the reason it is only happening in 5th is that is where the highest stress is when reaching toward the bikes top speed, plus he could feel a little surge at the end of the hesitation like it was re-engaging. It makes some sense. We'll see what happens, i made an appointment to take it in, in two weeks. Thats how far back were booked.

[KiwiGZ]

Hi there

I have an 04 GZ with only 2850 miles on the clock, and in the last month or so it has starting doing exactly the same as yours, always seems to be first thing in the morning on the way to work, and usually when I am trying to merge with traffic on the motorway - not a good time to lose power! It is quite intermittant, most days fine, then suddenly does the lose power thing out of the blue. I thought it might have been related to the colder weather, but I usually have ridden for 5- 10 minutes before getting onto the m'way so should be warmed up by then.

It seems to always lose power at around 80km/hr (I think that is about 45mph!?) then will pick up after about 30-40 seconds. Also had a few episodes of backfiring when I release the accelerator in 5th gear when slowing down or coasting downhill.

It is coming up due for the 3000 mile service so will get the bike shop to check it out. I certainly hope it isn't the clutch at this low milage!!

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by KiwiGZ

It seems to always lose power at around 80km/hr (I think that is about 45mph!?) then will pick up after about 30-40 seconds. Also had a few episodes of backfiring when I release the accelerator in 5th gear when slowing down or coasting downhill.

Sounds to me like it is due for some carb. cleaner.
Since it is still running good most of the time, you probably can get by without a tear-down of the carb.