Just a few questions....

[Water Warrior 2]

Originally Posted by blaine

N.G.K. sparkplug takes a 18mm socket.

That would be an 18mm spark plug socket or 18mm deep socket. Should be almost identical in dimensions as a roll or quarters. And yes I checked.

[GZ Jess]

I checked the air filter yesterday and it had no odor and was not dirty at all. I filled the tank with gas and Berryman B12 Chemtool (per bottle) and let it run in the garage for a short time (ride was canceled due to rain). I was able to get it started by holding the throttle open slightly and not turning the idle screw. I did play with the choke (after reading the owner's manual I have it right but may have typed it backwards) and upon moving it forward I get a momentary fast idle but then it goes chug chug and wants to stall out unless I give it gas this is at half or all the way forward.

So anyway, I am going to actually ride today and see if the Berryman's helps at all but I think I will also investigate the choke cable when I have more time. Thank you everyone for your help.

[GZ250]

Originally Posted by GZ Jess

and let it run in the garage for a short time (ride was canceled due to rain.

Knowing everything yet people do forget. Never run an engine in a garage or if you have to do it open the doors and have proper ventilation. Unconsciousness can take over without you realizing it.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by GZ Jess

I did play with the choke (after reading the owner's manual I have it right but may have typed it backwards) and upon moving it forward I get a momentary fast idle but then it goes chug chug and wants to stall out unless I give it gas this is at half or all the way forward.

We are making progress......I think.

What you describe above indicates that you are moving the choke toward OFF too soon; the engine needs to warm up more before you turn the choke completely off. It is perfectly OK to ride with the choke partly ON......for a little while.

Given the history, your idle stop screw could be too low now too. You can set that properly once you ride it far enough to get it completely hot.....and with the choke completely OFF.

Once things are working properly, you should be able to have it fire up pretty quickly with about half choke, or a little more, and without touching the throttle at all until you hear it fire.

Then you can reduce the choke a TINY bit at a time, just to maintain a slightly fast idle speed but not racing too fast........until, after a few minutes or a few miles, you end up with the choke completely off.

[GZ Jess]

Originally Posted by GZ250

Knowing everything yet people do forget. Never run an engine in a garage or if you have to do it open the doors and have proper ventilation. Unconsciousness can take over without you realizing it.

T

LOL Thank you for the warning but I have seen the after school specials! I did open up everything.

[GZ Jess]

Easy, I do understand (I think) the operation of the choke and about easing it closed a little at a time. My question now is, on my hubby's bike if I (his choke pulls to come on) pull his choke I can immediately tell a difference in the revs and the smell of the exhaust and pushing back in makes a big difference if it warm. On my bike when I open the choke I can tell a difference in the smell of the exhaust but say I pull it forward 1/2 way and stop, I get a momentary fast idle but then it goes back down to where it was before I opened the choke. Same if I open it all the way, momentary fast idle but then resumes idle as if choke were closed. Shouldn't it stay at a fast idle (when warm) as long as the choke is open and resume the normal idle when closed?

I really hope I am explaining this well enough and if you ever get to Ohio, I owe you a beer or maybe pop, your choice, or two for the frustration!

[fairweatherrider]

I had somewhat similar problems and this forum definitely helped me out. I changed the spark plug ( removal of tank not necessary). I used the standard plug, NGK DR8EA and checked the gap before installing. Maybe you need a hotter plug. Don't know. I removed the air cleaner (blew air ONLY from the outside of the filter and not the inside) and then prayed gumout carb and choke cleaner in the intake while it was running. Keep the throttle a little fast or it will stall. I adjusted the cables per the manual for throttle grip gap as specified. I adjusted the idle screw and it seems to be running well.

[blaine]

Originally Posted by GZ Jess

I do have the choke operation correct it just does not seem to help to move it half or all the way open at all.

Suzuki's had a bad habit of the choke sieging up at the carb end.Dissemble with a 14mm wrench.Clean spring,plunger,and cavity.Check for proper movement of cable and reassemble.
.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by GZ Jess

Shouldn't it stay at a fast idle (when warm) as long as the choke is open and resume the normal idle when closed?

Yes, I think you have that all figured out right. I think.

Is it possible that what you are observing is happening JUST because the choke lever/cable mechanism is loose and isn't staying where you PUT it ?? That does happen sometimes.
If that's the case, I'm not sure how you would "fix" it on a GZ.

I think it would help with future discussions of the problem if you could change your wording to: choke ON or choke OFF.....instead of open and closed; actually I think it would help a LOT.

PS...not sure where in Ohio you are but I try to get to the dirt track races at Eldora Speedway - Rossburg,OH occasionally.....but I suspect that's still a fair ways away from you.

[5th_bike]

Originally Posted by fairweatherrider

I used the standard plug, NGK DR8EA and checked the gap before installing.

You know how to check the gap don't you, when your nail just fits, it's good to go.