Charging system issue

[marauder1313]

So i went to buy a new meter because I had an older one and wanted to make sure I could trust my readings. As of right now, i have continuity in all 3 phases (and it IS within spec). And when i take a no-load AC voltage reading with bike running, i get close to 60V when revving (spec calls for 60V at 5,000rpm).
And thats from all 3 phases, so at this point, i dont know if i can fault the stator.
I did open it up this morning, and i found ONE winding (out of the 20?) to be a BIT black. Not sure how relevant that is.
As of right now, with the headlight PLUGGED IN, i am getting a voltage of 12.5 (approx) with the bike on and high rpms.
With the headlight UNPLUGGED, that voltage will hover around 13.3-13.7
Not sure how much voltage these bikes will put out from the factory, but id rather have 13 going into my bike than a measly 12.4.

Where do I go from here?

[marauder1313]

There is no visible corrosion inside the headlight box. I mean, if the headlight circuit was shorting somewhere, the bulb itself either wouldnt light up or would be dim im assuming. The only thing I can think of, is that the stator is "weak".
Is that possible? If so, im out of options. Because it doesnt necessarily test bad.

The r/r also tested good on the diode test.

[celesboy1]

60vac is perfect....but r u sure u was checked all 3 stator wires ?

I doubt it coz u mention one of the pole winding in stator was black....so in my opinion....2 of 3 phase just perfect (60vac)....but 1 of 3 will be lower than 60vac coz its burnt

And for correction....it has 18 poles winding....not 20

Just stay put for few hours till i post my mod...

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[marauder1313]

They all put out about 60vac (dont know at what rpm though since i have no tach).
The one winding had a bit of black yea, but still, im getting around 60vac on all three phases. Ill recheck it tomorrow i guess, but yea, im at a loss right now.

[spldart]

Heh.
Now i'm wondering if a 40 watt bulb with a couple clipleads could be used to load test each
of the three coils in the stator.
Just a brief test to see if it lights dimly with a quick rev.
Imma have to try it if I ever dig into my charge wiring as much as you have.

[celesboy1]

Originally Posted by marauder1313

So I just got back from an 18,000km trip with this GZ, and something that I experienced back in Delaware and had to live with all the way back to vancouver was an issue with its charging.
With the headlight plugged in, im barely getting 12.6V at idle. With headlight unplugged, Ill get into the mid 13's

I actually ended up riding back to the west coast with my headlight unplugged because I would encounter a dead battery eventually.

I got a brand new battery at an autozone in philly too

Where should I start looking to figure this shit out?

Thanks

ok....now we'll start the main course

i had some pics that shoot few minutes ago....

THIS kind of failure was commonly happend in certain type of suzuki....
wait...i'm forget to mention it...the MOST commonly issue is charging wire....happends alot in here in IDN too....

so...let begin with pics coz i'm not too good to explain in english

first thing to do....is made your DIY wires...any wires can do (i'm used household wires that cost me USD 1 each meter in electricity shop)



as u can see....in left there are 3 yellow stock wires from stator
3 blue wires in right...it was my DIY wires....
(so basically this is called bypass method....coz stator wires goes directly to R/R without using stock wire set anymore)



and this is where the blue wires go (they are go to RR)....very simple




you can see black and red wires in left side of the blue wires
its lead DIRECTLY to battery poles without anymore extension





so....what purpose of those 2 plastic socket in my hand after we did bypass mod ?
nothing....just let them hanging there and do nothing....(those 2 black and white socket doesn't have any function from now on)

[celesboy1]

wait....we dont have RR type like yours joseph....we need you to explain how to do it on stock RR (stock RR is shindengen SH572)

sorry....i'm forget if i was replaced my RR few years ago to something much better than the stock (pics in my late post above is RR came from yamaha R6 2012)

but then...i was recall that i have something for u to make understand it easier



u can made extension wires from here with spade connector

--black plastic socket goes directly to 3 wires from stator(blue extension wires in my bike)

--white plastic socket goes directly to battery poles (MAKE SURE YOU PUT IN RIGHT POLES COZ PLUS POLE AND MINUS POLE CANNOT BE EXCHANGED!!!) (red and black wires in my bike)

sorry...this pic have indonesian language coz orginally i made it for facebook group GS250 tutorial

[celesboy1]

Originally Posted by marauder1313

With the headlight UNPLUGGED, that voltage will hover around 13.3-13.7
Not sure how much voltage these bikes will put out from the factory, but id rather have 13 going into my bike than a measly 12.4.

IMHO...for all bikes with 12V battery....it should be like this


all lights off....engine rpm idle (about 1200rpm)



lights ON....engine rpm idle too