Seafoam in engine oil?

[blaine]

I'm with WW on this one.You can accomplish the same thing by using the aerosol SeaFoam & spray it directly into the intake.But to each his own.
:cool:

[ValleySquid]

That's way too high level stuff for me, I'd go as far as pouring it into the oil hole and changing the oil/filter and air filter. But I'm not sure about removing the spark plug. :0
Heck I don't even know how to adjust the shift lever lol

[mrlmd1]

And why exactly do you want to do this? What are you missing with regular scheduled oil changes every 3000 miles? Did anyone on here or in other anecdotal stories you may have heard ever have large amounts of sludge in their oil when changed at the recommended intervals? How much marketing hype and advertising do you have to succumb to?

[ValleySquid]

Well, for instance.. the GZ250 2006 that I bought had been parked for 4 months. When I rescued it and bought it with only 3000 miles for $1k. btw..
Now assuming its previous oil change was way before its last start up, I would imagine that perhaps seafoam would eliminate sludge accumulated during that period of time, plus a well deserved oil change, and filter.

[blaine]

Originally Posted by ValleySquid

Well, for instance.. the GZ250 2006 that I bought had been parked for 4 months. When I rescued it and bought it with only 3000 miles for $1k. btw..
Now assuming its previous oil change was way before its last start up, I would imagine that perhaps seafoam would eliminate sludge accumulated during that period of time, plus a well deserved oil change, and filter.

In that case you could pour a couple of ozs in the oil to clean things up,before you change it.
:2tup:

[Water Warrior 2]

Originally Posted by ValleySquid

That's way too high level stuff for me, I'd go as far as pouring it into the oil hole and changing the oil/filter and air filter. But I'm not sure about removing the spark plug. :0
Heck I don't even know how to adjust the shift lever lol

:lol: :lol: Best you stick around so we can offer help and instruction. We will have you wrenching in jig time. :lol: :lol:

[ValleySquid]

Yeah, I was so happy when I found this forum.. I don't know if you guys have noticed but, there aren't videos with instructions or guides for GZ250's out there.. this is pretty much the only resource for our bikes, I think?
:smallrawk:
AND.. I already removed my front brake pads for replacement, again thanks to this forum!
what else..... OH! adjustment of clutch lever and foot shifter too.
-
You guys rock!! :smallrawk: :smallrawk: :smallrawk:
:bow:

[Water Warrior 2]

V S ..............We have all been there and know where you are coming from. Don't be afraid to ask what you might consider a stupid, illogical or retarded question. All questions have an answer. We all learn with every question.

[blaine]

Originally Posted by Water Warrior

V S ..............We have all been there and know where you are coming from. Don't be afraid to ask what you might consider a stupid, illogical or retarded question. All questions have an answer. We all learn with every question.

:plus1: :plus1:

[DBG]

Originally Posted by Water Warrior

It seems to me that whatever seafoam doesn't drain down past the piston overnight is an accident waiting to happen. Trying to compress a liquid can do a lot of damage. I would be in fear of a collasped piston, bent rod or pulled head bolts. You may have had good results with no mishap but I personally would not take the gamble with engine damage.

Seafoam is a petroleum derived product that behaves very similar to engine oil. I've never had or heard of any results remotely close to what you speak of, which is more typical when water gets into the cylinder. Seafoam is designed to be put into crankcases and fuel tanks, and it definitely does work. I've used it often, as its prescribed maintenance on my evinrude direct injection, almost exactly as I detailed in the procedure above. It's really a very simple procedure that has very visible results. In fact, if you don't do this regularly on the evinrude the engine will literally blow up. This being said, Seafoam is expensive, and I would say it's not necessary unless you fear a large amount of carbon build up. Not sludge in the bottom of your oil pan, but carbon deposits up around your valves, fuel injectors (on other engines), cylinder walls, etc. But if you're going to pay $10/can for an additive, I would use the decarbonizing method I described versus just burning it in a a fuel mix alone. It's just way more effective per can. But again, I think this product is better used for engines that notoriously build up carbon like DI outboards. But every so often it has its place in a tune-up.