![]() |
|
![]() |
#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 4
|
Yes the arm was moved to down position as in the picture in the my first post. However to move it to the down position it was removed from the brake housing and them rotated to the down position. The clunk has really only happened when I was testing the rear brake, so I was braking hard at a fairly low speed. The link below talks about this kind of clunk being common from hard braking on rear wheel. I don't normally use only the rear brake. I was just testing it after the tires were changed and since it made a clunk I was testing again with hard rear braking to see if the clunk would come back.
http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r...ar-brakes.html Login or Register to Remove Ads |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Squamish B.C Canada
Posts: 11,409
|
Quote:
By the way, please learn to use both brakes to their maximum. Practice emergency braking so you know what to expect when things get dicey. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 3
|
Maybe you need a new lock washer or it is missing at the torque link.
I had a symptom of clunking that was alccompanied with brake "grab" Just had to replace the lock washer because the old one was compressed flat. Login or Register to Remove Ads |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 66
|
Had the exact same clunking issue. That lock washer was missing on my bike. Apparently the last person that did a rear brake job on it lost the washer and just didn't think it was important enough to replace.
Put one on and immediately the clunking stopped. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|