Fuel Cock leaking

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by ncff07

I'd ponder a guess its a run off for over flow gas.

No it is NOT supposed to be for that. It is WAY too high up on the carb body to be an "overflow".

Notice that the bowl where the gas sits is 2-3 inches lower, down at the bottom of the picture.

This may have something to do with the crankcase ventillation system; the fact that the hose is missing probably means that someone was screwing with it and went a little too far.......maybe accidentally drilled a hole there thinking that was where the idle mixture screw is ???

Anyhow, the gas stops when you switch it to ON because ON really is OFF when the engine is not running.

Have you looked closely with the engine running to see if there is any leakage......or if there is a slight vacume at the hole ???

[edit] There are some slight differences in carb's and plumbing from European models and North American models and California ones. Your specific one might never have had a hose there. Is there a brass screw inside that hole ?? It kind of looks like it. If so, maybe it is just loose.

[Vansky]

I'm looking at the service manual now (Service Information 7-12) it is saying that hose is the carburetor air vent hose. So question...gas should not be coming out that end correct? The only hose it should come out is the hose on the very bottom of the carburetor?

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Vansky

The only hose it should come out is the hose on the very bottom of the carburetor?

AND.....here's the point that some don't seem to be getting.....it should not be coming out there either if everything is working as designed......no matter what switch or valve is in what position.

That is a manual drain, a vent and an EMERGENCY overflow (the bottom tube).

There definitely shouldn't be anything coming out the top vent where you observed the leak. Liquid gas should NEVER be present that high up on the carb body; NEVER. That point is above the throat going into the engine.

One more thing: Is it possible that the leak is somewhere above that and it just appears to be leaking there because that's where it drips off ???

[Vansky]

I'm 99.9% sure i saw it coming out of that hole, but now it's in the shop. So hopefully i'll find out Monday or Tues what the problem is coming from.

P.S I don't want this shop ripping me off(first time going there)... it probably doesn't take more than 30-45 mins to replace rear brake shoe pads?

[alantf]

Originally Posted by Vansky

P.S I don't want this shop ripping me off(first time going there)... it probably doesn't take more than 30-45 mins to replace rear brake shoe pads?

Not being picky but brake shoes & pads are two completely different things. Pads are what you get when the brakes squeeze against a disc (like the front brakes) Shoes are what you get when the brakes sqeeze against a drum (like the rear brakes). Again - not trying to sound like a know all, just trying to help you know the correct terms. :2tup:

BTW, just checked the carb on my European model, and it's definitely got a hose attached to the outlet that you're pointing to.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Vansky

it probably doesn't take more than 30-45 mins to replace rear brake shoe pads?

That depends on whether you want it done right or not !!
I'd say a full hour.

Back wheel must come off:
Loosen chain/remove chain
Disconnect brake pedal link
Disconnect hub stop
Loosen and remove axle
Remove wheel
Inspect wheel bearings
Clean out dust and inspect drum
Do brakes......several steps there
Put it all back together
Re-adjust brakes and stop light switch

Doesn't seem like much until you actually have to DO it.

If they use a flat rate manual, it doesn't make any difference how long it takes.