put 2-3 oz. of seafoam in gas tank; now won't start/dies - Page 3

Water Warrior 2 · 03-29-2014, 12:20 AM

JohnC, my bad. I have been lead to believe most if not all diesel oils will do the job. Rotella is certified and many riders used long before it was certified with no problems. I also use it in my Ranger 4.0 V6 with good results.
I must have written at one time that both the Vstrom 650 and Lynda's M-50 Suzuki were happy with 15-40 Rotella dino oil. Oddly enough the Vstrom shifted better with the cheap dino compared to Amsoil moto specific 10-40 oil.

**jonathan180iq** · 03-31-2014, 09:38 AM

Most people, especially newer riders and people who aren't straight hardcore gear heads, are going to purchase their oils from walmart or somewhere similar. And to the best of my knowledge, the 2-4 brands of diesel oil that are sold at box stores are going to work just fine for an oil change in a motorcycle.

Down on the chemical level, there are some differences between the two, sure. Like, diesel has the ability to clean and suspend harsher deposits than cheaper car oil. And this harsher cleaning environment can lead to the disintegration of chemically different gaskets and metals over time I suppose. But like everything else, for a simple clean out oil change and just to have something in the crankcase that will "do the job", you'd be hard pressed to find a diesel oil that would get anyone on the website to say "NO ABSOLUTELY NOT!!"

gstam4 · 04-16-2014, 03:40 PM

got the bike back today; i had told them to take their time, and they fixed it for free, since it was the same problem i had taken it in for while it was under its 1-month warranty back in february. sounds like it was a problem with the flow needle in the carb.

rode two miles to the gas station to fill up, and then realized the fuel switch was on PRI; they hadn't set it back to ON, and i didn't think to check it. i flipped it up and hoped no damage had been done.

then i got home and let it idle for a minute while i looked around. to my surprise, i saw what the attached picture shows: a cable with a spark plug at the end of it, just dangling loose next to the engine. i took it back to the shop, and after likewise being surprised that his mechanic had left the bike like that, the service manager put the spark plug wherever it's supposed to go.

i'm not sure how the engine worked without the spark plug ...? (the one guy said vacuum-something, i think.) would riding it like this have done any damage? i took a 20-mile ride immediately after they fixed the dangling spark plug, and it seemed fine.

mainlinecoffee · 04-16-2014, 07:25 PM

Is that your spark plug? Where is that wire coming from? I'm no expert but something may be un right about that.

grasshopper · 04-16-2014, 08:50 PM

gstam4,
It looks like they used a spark plug to block off a vacuum hose. I would not go back to that shop.

Tarzan · 04-16-2014, 09:14 PM

I'm pretty sure that vacuum line is the one that goes to the petcock. It makes the fuel flow when the bike starts up. The spark plug was just a spare plug they used to plug the line while they were tuning it. The service manager hopefully put the vacuum line on the petcock where it goes and kept the sperk plug.
Riding the bike that way won't hurt the bike. When the petcock is on prime, it bypasses the vacuum function, enabling the carb to get fuel until it starts and creates vacuum. Then you turn the knob to run or reserve, run most of the time. Reserve when the bike starts to run out of gas. Reserve should be used to get to a fuel station.

gstam4 · 04-16-2014, 09:31 PM

yeah, looks like that line, after the spark plug was taken off it, is now going to the petcock.

the bike seems to be riding fine. but i put 2 gallons of gas in it when i got it back earlier today, then did only about 35 miles since then, and the gas level seems to be pretty low in the tank (much lower than it looked after i put in the 2 gallons). my air filter still smells like gas, which means they didn't change it, but it's not wet and there's no gas in the airbox at all - and the oil level looks fine (not too high).

i'm hoping that i don't have a problem in addition to the flow needle (which i believe is what they fixed) that they didn't catch.

i'm going to get a new air filter from amazon soon...i'm sure having one that was previously soaked in gas isn't ideal.

**jonathan180iq** · 04-17-2014, 02:08 PM

....

Basically, to solve your problem, they bypassed the vacuum tube and put the petcock on PRI - they didn't actually fix anything. Do you remember what the specifically told you? I tend to lean towards not going back to that particular shop. You've reattached the vacuum hose and put the petcock back on RUN and you're having the same problem, right?

From what I recall, 2 gallons of gas pretty much fills up the tank, doesn't it? 35 miles after fill up and you shouldn't see more than 1/2 a gallon missing from the tank. That said, you can't judge fuel useage by looking in the tank. Fill up the tank, set your tirp meter to 0, go for a solid 45-60 minute ride, fill up the bike again and calculate your fuel economy. (Miles ridden / gallons to fill). On a healthy bike, you should see something between 50-60+MPG. If you get a number in the 30s or 40s, then you have a fuel problem still.

I will say, the faint smell of gas in the airbox is pretty common, as is the scent of motor oil, especially considering that it was recently filled with oil and gas...

Water Warrior 2 · 04-17-2014, 03:16 PM

Jonathan is right about a proper fill and calculation for the amount of gas used. An eyeball guess is never going to work well enough. If memory serves me the tank is closer to 3 gallons U.S.
I have to wonder about the spark plug plugging a vacuum line. Seems like a goofy way to accomplish something. I suppose it works for the tech but I would opt for screwing in a small bolt finger tight or just slip in a golf T.

gstam4 · 04-17-2014, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonathan180iq

....

Basically, to solve your problem, they bypassed the vacuum tube and put the petcock on PRI - they didn't actually fix anything. Do you remember what the specifically told you? I tend to lean towards not going back to that particular shop. You've reattached the vacuum hose and put the petcock back on RUN and you're having the same problem, right?

when i took it back, their service manager re-attached the vacuum hose; i had already put the petcock back to RUN after noticing it was left on PRIME while at the gas station a few miles earlier. the service manager's expression made it seem like it was just something dumb they forget to do at the end; i think they had my carburetor apart and fixed the flow needle. (i should have gotten more info, but was trying not to be a pain in the hopes they wouldn't charge me - which they didn't.)

so far i've only gone about 40 miles. still running fine, and still no gas in the airbox. i really have no idea how much of that 2 gallons of gas i've used in those 40 miles; how do you determine when the tank is full? when the gas would be touching the bottom of the fuel cap?

03-29-2014, 12:20 AM	#21
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	JohnC, my bad. I have been lead to believe most if not all diesel oils will do the job. Rotella is certified and many riders used long before it was certified with no problems. I also use it in my Ranger 4.0 V6 with good results. I must have written at one time that both the Vstrom 650 and Lynda's M-50 Suzuki were happy with 15-40 Rotella dino oil. Oddly enough the Vstrom shifted better with the cheap dino compared to Amsoil moto specific 10-40 oil. Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

04-16-2014, 03:40 PM	#23
gstam4 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Tallahassee, FL Posts: 29	got the bike back today; i had told them to take their time, and they fixed it for free, since it was the same problem i had taken it in for while it was under its 1-month warranty back in february. sounds like it was a problem with the flow needle in the carb. rode two miles to the gas station to fill up, and then realized the fuel switch was on PRI; they hadn't set it back to ON, and i didn't think to check it. i flipped it up and hoped no damage had been done. then i got home and let it idle for a minute while i looked around. to my surprise, i saw what the attached picture shows: a cable with a spark plug at the end of it, just dangling loose next to the engine. i took it back to the shop, and after likewise being surprised that his mechanic had left the bike like that, the service manager put the spark plug wherever it's supposed to go. i'm not sure how the engine worked without the spark plug ...? (the one guy said vacuum-something, i think.) would riding it like this have done any damage? i took a 20-mile ride immediately after they fixed the dangling spark plug, and it seemed fine. Login or Register to Remove Ads Last edited by gstam4; 04-16-2014 at 03:46 PM.
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04-16-2014, 08:50 PM	#25
grasshopper Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: manning, sc Posts: 484	gstam4, It looks like they used a spark plug to block off a vacuum hose. I would not go back to that shop. __________________ 1994 Honda Magna VF750C 1996 Honda Magna VF750C 2001 Suzuki gz250(sold) http://youtu.be/KIS9Hzv--f0 https://youtu.be/fvmTNllcQOQ Login or Register to Remove Ads
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03-31-2014, 09:38 AM	#22
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	Most people, especially newer riders and people who aren't straight hardcore gear heads, are going to purchase their oils from walmart or somewhere similar. And to the best of my knowledge, the 2-4 brands of diesel oil that are sold at box stores are going to work just fine for an oil change in a motorcycle. Down on the chemical level, there are some differences between the two, sure. Like, diesel has the ability to clean and suspend harsher deposits than cheaper car oil. And this harsher cleaning environment can lead to the disintegration of chemically different gaskets and metals over time I suppose. But like everything else, for a simple clean out oil change and just to have something in the crankcase that will "do the job", you'd be hard pressed to find a diesel oil that would get anyone on the website to say "NO ABSOLUTELY NOT!!"
	0

04-16-2014, 07:25 PM	#24
mainlinecoffee Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: lexington ky Posts: 223	Is that your spark plug? Where is that wire coming from? I'm no expert but something may be un right about that.
	0

04-16-2014, 09:14 PM	#26
Tarzan Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Chandler,Az. Posts: 5	I'm pretty sure that vacuum line is the one that goes to the petcock. It makes the fuel flow when the bike starts up. The spark plug was just a spare plug they used to plug the line while they were tuning it. The service manager hopefully put the vacuum line on the petcock where it goes and kept the sperk plug. Riding the bike that way won't hurt the bike. When the petcock is on prime, it bypasses the vacuum function, enabling the carb to get fuel until it starts and creates vacuum. Then you turn the knob to run or reserve, run most of the time. Reserve when the bike starts to run out of gas. Reserve should be used to get to a fuel station.
	0

04-16-2014, 09:31 PM	#27
gstam4 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Tallahassee, FL Posts: 29	yeah, looks like that line, after the spark plug was taken off it, is now going to the petcock. the bike seems to be riding fine. but i put 2 gallons of gas in it when i got it back earlier today, then did only about 35 miles since then, and the gas level seems to be pretty low in the tank (much lower than it looked after i put in the 2 gallons). my air filter still smells like gas, which means they didn't change it, but it's not wet and there's no gas in the airbox at all - and the oil level looks fine (not too high). i'm hoping that i don't have a problem in addition to the flow needle (which i believe is what they fixed) that they didn't catch. i'm going to get a new air filter from amazon soon...i'm sure having one that was previously soaked in gas isn't ideal.
	0

04-17-2014, 02:08 PM	#28
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	.... Basically, to solve your problem, they bypassed the vacuum tube and put the petcock on PRI - they didn't actually fix anything. Do you remember what the specifically told you? I tend to lean towards not going back to that particular shop. You've reattached the vacuum hose and put the petcock back on RUN and you're having the same problem, right? From what I recall, 2 gallons of gas pretty much fills up the tank, doesn't it? 35 miles after fill up and you shouldn't see more than 1/2 a gallon missing from the tank. That said, you can't judge fuel useage by looking in the tank. Fill up the tank, set your tirp meter to 0, go for a solid 45-60 minute ride, fill up the bike again and calculate your fuel economy. (Miles ridden / gallons to fill). On a healthy bike, you should see something between 50-60+MPG. If you get a number in the 30s or 40s, then you have a fuel problem still. I will say, the faint smell of gas in the airbox is pretty common, as is the scent of motor oil, especially considering that it was recently filled with oil and gas...
	0

04-17-2014, 03:16 PM	#29
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	Jonathan is right about a proper fill and calculation for the amount of gas used. An eyeball guess is never going to work well enough. If memory serves me the tank is closer to 3 gallons U.S. I have to wonder about the spark plug plugging a vacuum line. Seems like a goofy way to accomplish something. I suppose it works for the tech but I would opt for screwing in a small bolt finger tight or just slip in a golf T.
	0