Help?

[FLORIDAGZ250]

Ok lets see what we can figure out.

My bike has returned from a local shop and sounds GREAT! For the most part runs great, I had a whole lot of work done on the top end. New Rockers, Adjusters, Cam Chain, Cam Guide, and a Sprocket replaced, new gaskets, new sparks. and i payed waaaay to much money for what I got back in general.

Here is the problem.

Before I sent the bike in with all of those problems needing fixing, it shifted great and idled great. Now that it has returned, it starts up very easily with the flick of a button, but idles high till warm up then dies. The Carb brand new I bought it from the Local Suzuki Dealer. More money that I should have not spent. I have checked the petcock valve it is switched to RUN, I don't know if this is the correct position, the other Two are PRI, and RES. after the bike warms up it just stalls when shifted into 2 from 1st with the clutch fully engaged, but this could be dependent on problem 2 i am thinking

Problem 2.
when shifting the shifting lever will not go to <N> from 1st, as well as from <N> to first, with out some toying around or just plain using my hand. (that's just not safe riding) Upon further inspection I have also found a slow Oil leak when the bike warms up coming from the gear assembly (clutch?) covers, as well as the Exhaust Ports on the Front of the Engine, probably solved by just changing the gaskets, oil filter, and oil. I got the OEM filter and gaskets. As a note, there is about a 1/4 inch bit of gasket sticking out of the front side of the gear cover/clutch assembly. Assuming this is not normal.... should this gasket go on fairly easy, and does any one have suggestions of making this go smoother. (mounting the gasket) Any other things that you might think of causing this would be greatly helpful!

Thanks in advance!

[5th_bike]

Assuming you use the choke until warm, adjust the idle speed with the white knob underneath the carburator. Turn it clockwise (when looking from below; counterclockwise when looking from above) for higher idle speed. Yes RUN is good until you run out of gas (engine will hesitate), you may want to practice bending over and switching it to RES without looking so you can keep going. Next, get gas.

re 2 - yes, one of its quirks, it may require a little persuasion to go into first gear. No use/need to switch to neutral when in first. Just switch to second, and a gentle tap with your toes will put it in neutral.
A gasket sticking out 1/4 inch, that's not normal, on mine I see no gasket sticking out whatsoever.

[FLORIDAGZ250]

Been a busy week will be working on the bike this Friday to see if i can resolve the issues, going to change the gasket, oil, and oil filter to see if this helps with the shifting. As a side note, the bike was shifting waay better before, this is defiantly a very large difference. Will update with pics as soon as I get them.

[mrlmd1]

As far as your "shifting" problem goes - almost ALL bikes have difficulty shifting into first from Neutral, like at a stop, and this is normal. You can get it to go in by rocking the bike or rolling it forward and backward an inch or so and this will allow the gears to mesh and then shifting will go easily. Do not stand on the shift lever and force it into first, that will not work. The common thing to do when rolling to a stop, like at a light, is to shift into first just before you stop moving, and then you are all set to take off in an emergency if need be (as when you see a car coming up fast behind you and think you are going to be rear-ended). or when the light changes, not having to hunt for first gear.

[FLORIDAGZ250]

O K here's the update

I have changed all the gaskets showing any type of leak, there are no more leaks on the bike YAY! I have developed 2 more problems since fixing the gasket on the magneto, replacing o-rings on exhaust, cleaning carb, changing oil, oil filter, air filter, and making sure all blots on engine are to torque spec per the manual. EDIT: Also replaced the battery

The shifter goes to what i can only refer to as a "dead position" where its not between shifting, but sitting in the down shift position, like its no returning to a shift able position. EXPLANATION: After downshifting, I have to pull up a little with my foot, to get it to be able to shift down again, once i do that it will shift but its quite annoying and i am pretty sure this is wrong.

Second: The bike once warmed up seems to want to stall out, it idles well until warm, and then likes to stall after running for a little while.

Third: Flooding, the bike flooded yesterday while riding???? There was fuel coming from the air box, does this problem relate to the stalling?

Solutions: Where should I start? What should I be looking for, and what can I learn from this.


Thanks in advance for the help!

Safe Riding!

[OldNTired]

Originally Posted by FLORIDAGZ250

O K here's the update

I have changed all the gaskets showing any type of leak, there are no more leaks on the bike YAY! I have developed 2 more problems since fixing the gasket on the magneto, replacing o-rings on exhaust, cleaning carb, changing oil, oil filter, air filter, and making sure all blots on engine are to torque spec per the manual. EDIT: Also replaced the battery

The shifter goes to what i can only refer to as a "dead position" where its not between shifting, but sitting in the down shift position, like its no returning to a shift able position. EXPLANATION: After downshifting, I have to pull up a little with my foot, to get it to be able to shift down again, once i do that it will shift but its quite annoying and i am pretty sure this is wrong.

Second: The bike once warmed up seems to want to stall out, it idles well until warm, and then likes to stall after running for a little while.

Third: Flooding, the bike flooded yesterday while riding???? There was fuel coming from the air box, does this problem relate to the stalling?

Solutions: Where should I start? What should I be looking for, and what can I learn from this.


Thanks in advance for the help!

Safe Riding!

Well, have you cleaned the air box? If not, do so, and make sure
to replace the plug at the end of the drain hose.

Check the routing of the hoses from the gas tank. Move the hoses if necessary.

If neither of those fixes things, the only thing I can think of, without seeing the bike,
is maybe that the float in the carb is set up wrong, or is damaged.
Try the first two things, then let us know what happens. Good luck.

[jonathan180iq]

All idle adjustments and tweaks of that nature need to happen on a warm bike. It's possible that the mechanics set your specs cold and that's why it's trying to cit out after its warm.