Jumping

[alantf]

Originally Posted by bonehead

There's a little circle on the back of the oil bottles. In the bottom half it will read "energy conserving" or not. FYI

I wish they'd change the handbook then, if they don't have to put it on the bottle. My 2007 handbook (even though it's in Spanish) shows the circle, with the words in English. The centre of the two concentric circles has "SAE 10W-40" then the top of the outer circle has "API SERVICE SJ". That is "Recomendado" If it's got "ENERGY CONSERVING" at the bottom of the outer circle, it's "No recomendado"

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by alantf

[the top of the outer circle has "API SERVICE SJ". That is "Recomendado" If it's got "ENERGY CONSERVING" at the bottom of the outer circle, it's "No recomendado"

The standards were last revised in 2009, I think.

If "SJ" is the latest MOTORCYCLE standard (big if 'cause I don't know what the latest bike standard IS)
then it's a little silly because a motorcycle oil will NEVER have "energy conserving" additives.

If SJ is a cage standard, then point well taken, and it will be interesting to see if the bike makers are even aware of the potential problem.

The old assumption of "SJ" or higher may not apply anymore.

[dhgeyer]

With a multi-plate wet clutch (most motorcycles) the oil, when cold especially, causes the plates to stick together to a degree. The colder the ambient temperature, the more this will happen. Heavier weight oil tends to do this more, also. How the clutch is adjusted (both internally and externally), spring tension, clutch design, and other factors can increase or decrease this happening as well.

When I had a Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic FI, and started it up in the Winter, when I went to put it in gear the clutch stuck so bad that it tried to take the bike right out from under me, and stalled the engine.

I found that one way to break the sticking on cold starts is to put the bike in first before starting it, pull in the clutch lever, and rock the bike until it moves freely. Any amount of jump you get after that is harmless.

Bikes with multi-plate wet clutches are designed to run with motorcycle oil, which has, in addition to other designations, the "MA" classification, usually printed quite large on the bottle somewhere. Lots of people run non motorcycle oil in these bikes, and some have trouble and some don't. If you do have trouble, it will be with the clutch slipping when fully engaged, which will ruin it very quickly.

I have always run motorcycle oil in bikes with multi-plate wet clutches, but that's my personal decision. It does cost more, but, given how often the oil needs to be changed and the actual difference, I don't think it's an unwarranted expense. I'm not disagreeing with anyone else who makes a different choice.

[Water Warrior 2]

We also have to remember that the engine oil also lubes the tranny. There are shear forces involved when gears are turning and can quickly destroy some of the oils capabilities. M/C specific oils will have a greater shear characteristic for long life service. Amsoil M/C oil has a shear characteristic of a 90 weight gear oil which is great. I don't know what Shell Rotella is but it must be pretty good if it lives in a Cummins equiped Dodge Ram. Works nice is my Ranger too.

[alantf]

Just checked my handbook again ....... It says, if using API classification use SF or SG - or - SH or SJ. If using JASO classification use MA. (JASO is the Jap equivalent of API)