I heard marbles rattling in the engine and it just stopped. - Page 5

tommyjoebilly · 04-24-2010, 12:34 AM

Thanks Blaine, I tried that, but it did not move!!! I like the path of least resistance, if you catch my drift.

music man · 04-24-2010, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tommyjoebilly

No, Music, I loosened the adjustment bolt first. The axle bolt looked like Superman himself had tightened it. It was bent outa shape!

So it was the axle bolt you couldn't get loose? I am confused, maybe I just missed something, I will go back and read it again.

alantf · 04-24-2010, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by music man

So it was the axle bolt you couldn't get loose? I am confused,

So am I!... The axle bolt goes side to side across the bike, & needs to be loosened before you move the adjusting bolts (which stick out of the back of the bike) The way you've written it up, you've tried to move the adjusting bolt without loosening the axle bolt............. or have you done it the correct way, but just written it up wrong? :??:

tommyjoebilly · 04-24-2010, 10:42 PM

I thought I responded to this post already. Maybe I didn't click "submit" :retard: I wanted to loosen the chain so I could get the sprocket off at the engine. I did loosen the adjustment nut first, as I didn't know what I was doing. The axle bolt, I now realize has to be loosened on both sides so the wheel can be moved forward. I couldn't budge it and didn't have a breaker bar, so I figured I would get slack on the other end, by moving the engine backwards.

blaine · 04-24-2010, 10:53 PM

The axel bolt only has to be loosened on the cotter-key side and held from turning on other side.Axel must be loosened before adjusters will move.

tommyjoebilly · 04-24-2010, 11:09 PM

SUCCESS!! :rawk: Remember in the Indiana Jones movie where that wicked guy pulls the heart out of his victim? Well, I got that engine off the bike!! Like Dick Van Dyke in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, I'm gonna work on that sucker in seclusion until it's fixed :hide:

If you recall, I had a problem with getting the chain sprocket off of the engine as I didn't have enough slack. In the manual, it says to leave the pivot screw in (that's the big one, toward the back of the engine) but I took that one out third from last as I wanted to pivot on another mounting bolt to give me slack. It's hard to explain, but it worked. Got my slack and the sprocket came off with ease.

I also couldn't get the gearshift clevis(?) off, so I loosened both sides of the adjustment rod and unscrewed it. (If you do this, keep in mind that one side is a left hand thread and the other side is a right hand thread) In my mind, this is WAY easier than fighting with that thing!

I also had a problem with the clutch cable bracket. They have Philips head screws on there for some ungodly reason! There is nothing worse than trying to remove Philips screws that have been exposed to the elements. After much usage of bad language, I thought, "what would MacGuyver do?" So I bent the bracket to release the cable!

tommyjoebilly · 04-24-2010, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blaine

The axel bolt only has to be loosened on the cotter-key side and held from turning on other side.Axel must be loosened before adjusters will move.

Thanks Blaine. I will use that when I have to adjust someday. And buy a breaker bar!

Water Warrior 2 · 04-25-2010, 01:53 AM

A little helpful trivia for all. Phillips head screws in Japanese bikes require a Japanese Phillips screw driver to fit properly. There is a slight difference in their design and our SAE stuff just slips and ruins the heads eventually. MY answer to that is using an impact driver as a screw driver because it does fit better. The assortment of screw driver ends are good quality and will fit a couple different size heads. The bonus is you get to use a hammer if things get really stuck or you want things really tight. Cheap at tool discount houses.

alantf · 04-25-2010, 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Water Warrior

Japanese bikes require a Japanese Phillips screw driver to fit properly. There is a slight difference in their design and our SAE stuff just slips and ruins the heads eventually.

The "Japanese" Phillips screw driver is actually called "pozidriv". They're available everywhere in England. A tip! - If you haven't got a pozidriv, grind the end off a phillips (slightly) as pozidriv actually does have a flat end. :2tup:

Water Warrior 2 · 04-26-2010, 02:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alantf

Quote:

Originally Posted by Water Warrior

Japanese bikes require a Japanese Phillips screw driver to fit properly. There is a slight difference in their design and our SAE stuff just slips and ruins the heads eventually.

The "Japanese" Phillips screw driver is actually called "pozidriv". They're available everywhere in England. A tip! - If you haven't got a pozidriv, grind the end off a phillips (slightly) as pozidriv actually does have a flat end. :2tup:

Oh goody, I have some extra screw drivers to experiment with. Thanks a bunch Alantf, now I know what to look for.

04-24-2010, 12:34 AM	#41
tommyjoebilly Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Connecticut Posts: 36	Re: I heard marbles rattling in the engine and it just stopp Thanks Blaine, I tried that, but it did not move!!! I like the path of least resistance, if you catch my drift. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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04-24-2010, 10:42 PM	#44
tommyjoebilly Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Connecticut Posts: 36	Re: I heard marbles rattling in the engine and it just stopp I thought I responded to this post already. Maybe I didn't click "submit" :retard: I wanted to loosen the chain so I could get the sprocket off at the engine. I did loosen the adjustment nut first, as I didn't know what I was doing. The axle bolt, I now realize has to be loosened on both sides so the wheel can be moved forward. I couldn't budge it and didn't have a breaker bar, so I figured I would get slack on the other end, by moving the engine backwards.
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04-24-2010, 10:53 PM	#45
blaine Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: P.E.I. Canada Posts: 3,784	Re: I heard marbles rattling in the engine and it just stopp The axel bolt only has to be loosened on the cotter-key side and held from turning on other side.Axel must be loosened before adjusters will move. __________________ If at first you do succeed, try not to look surprised. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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04-24-2010, 11:09 PM	#46
tommyjoebilly Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Connecticut Posts: 36	Re: I heard marbles rattling in the engine and it just stopp SUCCESS!! :rawk: Remember in the Indiana Jones movie where that wicked guy pulls the heart out of his victim? Well, I got that engine off the bike!! Like Dick Van Dyke in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, I'm gonna work on that sucker in seclusion until it's fixed :hide: If you recall, I had a problem with getting the chain sprocket off of the engine as I didn't have enough slack. In the manual, it says to leave the pivot screw in (that's the big one, toward the back of the engine) but I took that one out third from last as I wanted to pivot on another mounting bolt to give me slack. It's hard to explain, but it worked. Got my slack and the sprocket came off with ease. I also couldn't get the gearshift clevis(?) off, so I loosened both sides of the adjustment rod and unscrewed it. (If you do this, keep in mind that one side is a left hand thread and the other side is a right hand thread) In my mind, this is WAY easier than fighting with that thing! I also had a problem with the clutch cable bracket. They have Philips head screws on there for some ungodly reason! There is nothing worse than trying to remove Philips screws that have been exposed to the elements. After much usage of bad language, I thought, "what would MacGuyver do?" So I bent the bracket to release the cable!
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04-25-2010, 01:53 AM	#48
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	Re: I heard marbles rattling in the engine and it just stopp A little helpful trivia for all. Phillips head screws in Japanese bikes require a Japanese Phillips screw driver to fit properly. There is a slight difference in their design and our SAE stuff just slips and ruins the heads eventually. MY answer to that is using an impact driver as a screw driver because it does fit better. The assortment of screw driver ends are good quality and will fit a couple different size heads. The bonus is you get to use a hammer if things get really stuck or you want things really tight. Cheap at tool discount houses.
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