Oil on Cylinder ,?

leonj2932 · 06-15-2017, 01:54 AM

Hey guys I'm about confused as to why there's baked on oil on the cylinder where the fins are , I tried removing it with engine degreaser but it's really baked on . I hope this isn't due to an engine issue

u

I attached a picture for if anyone has any ideas to what may be going on or how that oil got there .

spldart · 06-15-2017, 02:54 AM

Could be the valve adjust covers. Could be the head gasket.
I've fought with this problem too.

leonj2932 · 06-15-2017, 01:17 PM

How do you fix the problem though ? Or is it something that isnt a huge priority ??

alantf · 06-16-2017, 05:54 AM

With the GZ, the head bolts seem to come loose over time. You could try tightening them first. Also check the bolts holding the exhaust, and the valve adjuster cover. Caveat - Make sure you don't shear them.

Pmhearns · 06-16-2017, 10:34 AM

Remove the side covers and look with a flash light if you have oil gathering in the pocket where both the spark plug is and the left front head stud are. If there is pooling there, youre likely leaking oil from the washer/gasket of the nut. DONT JUST TIGHTEN THE NUT! The BEST thing to do is now check for oil around the head gasket, if its clear... order the oem washers and gaskets for the head studs, And some quality grey gasket maker. Remove the valve cover, set it aside. Loosen(no need to remove completlly unless you are changing head gasket) the bottom nuts on the guide studs on the under side of the head, Now, remove each nut and the washer one at a time and MAKE NOTE of whether its a washer or a gasket. Then replace the used washer with the correct new one. I believe the gaskets (copper washer) go to the 2 studs inside the valve cover but not 100% sure.. i applied a small amount of low strength locktite to the inside of the nut... now finger snug 1 by 1 in cross pattern. The using a torque wrench, i tighten to roughly 20% of oem torque spec then cross to next stud and repeat in cross pattern until reached 100%. Then retorque the guide nuts... CLEAN ALL OLD GASKET RESIDUE FROM HEAD AND COVER. . I use methonal for this but alocol will work woth a fine grit scotch brite pad. Very fine bead of new gaset on cover and replace. Torqing bolts in same manner as head studs. It seems like a lot of work but abkut an hour and you will leak free for a long time

Also, it helps to replace those crappy stock header bolts with ss set screws... i think i used 30mm and they are 6x1.0 mm threads. I threaded them until they bottom out and back oit 1 full turn, then used lock nut to tighten them down that way you arent tightening up on the threads in the head..

If you DO have oil on the underside of the head, replace headgasket and repeat sll steps. And dont forget to mind the timing chain.... use a hammer to hold it up after you move the cam becsue if it drops, youre gonna have a bad time... also, buy new header gaskets.....

Phew...

leonj2932 · 06-19-2017, 01:10 AM

wow that sounds like a lot of things to do , ugh this bike has been nothin but problems so far .

Water Warrior 2 · 06-19-2017, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leonj2932

wow that sounds like a lot of things to do , ugh this bike has been nothin but problems so far .

Just wait till you have all the problems fixed.

Pmhearns · 06-19-2017, 10:17 AM

Its not so bad, make sure you gather the proper tools prior to the work. Take your time and have some patients... it just looks like a lot with how i described it, but its only like 2 hours of work if you take your time. One thing i woukd advise is have a desginated place for the bolts you remove.. zip lock bags work well if the bolts are the same... if they differnt... make a template( cardboad and sharpie work very well for this). Mark the orientation of the bike on the bosrd and then draw a rough outline of whatever you are disaaaembling. Then, one bolt at a time, press into carb board so you kno which bolt goes where.

Take youre time and be patient, i have to tell my 17 year old this dtuff all the time becsuse he tries to blast through these tasks and gets nervous and then makes mistakes and cross threads holes and looses things.. nuts, bolts tools....

RJsfishin · 06-20-2017, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leonj2932

How do you fix the problem though ? Or is it something that isnt a huge priority ??

First of all, is it a problem ??
You said its old baked on oil, that's probably been there forever,...possibly leftover from a prior leak ?
You never said anything about it leaking oil,....like running down the cyl and onto the floor.
My advice, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Summed up, from what you described, you don't have a problem.

leonj2932 · 07-10-2017, 11:21 PM

no sorry , its definetely something, when i bought the bike there was no oil, 1000 miles later and im just a mess with this bike still.

06-15-2017, 01:17 PM	#3
leonj2932 Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: San Francisco/Bay Area Posts: 31	How do you fix the problem though ? Or is it something that isnt a huge priority ?? Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

06-16-2017, 05:54 AM	#4
alantf Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tenerife (Spain) Posts: 3,719	With the GZ, the head bolts seem to come loose over time. You could try tightening them first. Also check the bolts holding the exhaust, and the valve adjuster cover. Caveat - Make sure you don't shear them. __________________ By birth an Englishman, by the grace of God a Yorkshireman.
	0

06-16-2017, 10:34 AM	#5
Pmhearns Member Join Date: Jan 2017 Posts: 54	Remove the side covers and look with a flash light if you have oil gathering in the pocket where both the spark plug is and the left front head stud are. If there is pooling there, youre likely leaking oil from the washer/gasket of the nut. DONT JUST TIGHTEN THE NUT! The BEST thing to do is now check for oil around the head gasket, if its clear... order the oem washers and gaskets for the head studs, And some quality grey gasket maker. Remove the valve cover, set it aside. Loosen(no need to remove completlly unless you are changing head gasket) the bottom nuts on the guide studs on the under side of the head, Now, remove each nut and the washer one at a time and MAKE NOTE of whether its a washer or a gasket. Then replace the used washer with the correct new one. I believe the gaskets (copper washer) go to the 2 studs inside the valve cover but not 100% sure.. i applied a small amount of low strength locktite to the inside of the nut... now finger snug 1 by 1 in cross pattern. The using a torque wrench, i tighten to roughly 20% of oem torque spec then cross to next stud and repeat in cross pattern until reached 100%. Then retorque the guide nuts... CLEAN ALL OLD GASKET RESIDUE FROM HEAD AND COVER. . I use methonal for this but alocol will work woth a fine grit scotch brite pad. Very fine bead of new gaset on cover and replace. Torqing bolts in same manner as head studs. It seems like a lot of work but abkut an hour and you will leak free for a long time Also, it helps to replace those crappy stock header bolts with ss set screws... i think i used 30mm and they are 6x1.0 mm threads. I threaded them until they bottom out and back oit 1 full turn, then used lock nut to tighten them down that way you arent tightening up on the threads in the head.. If you DO have oil on the underside of the head, replace headgasket and repeat sll steps. And dont forget to mind the timing chain.... use a hammer to hold it up after you move the cam becsue if it drops, youre gonna have a bad time... also, buy new header gaskets..... Phew... Login or Register to Remove Ads Last edited by Pmhearns; 06-16-2017 at 12:26 PM.
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06-15-2017, 02:54 AM	#2
spldart Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Stafford, Texas Posts: 604	Could be the valve adjust covers. Could be the head gasket. I've fought with this problem too.
	0

06-19-2017, 01:10 AM	#6
leonj2932 Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: San Francisco/Bay Area Posts: 31	wow that sounds like a lot of things to do , ugh this bike has been nothin but problems so far .
	0

06-19-2017, 10:17 AM	#8
Pmhearns Member Join Date: Jan 2017 Posts: 54	Its not so bad, make sure you gather the proper tools prior to the work. Take your time and have some patients... it just looks like a lot with how i described it, but its only like 2 hours of work if you take your time. One thing i woukd advise is have a desginated place for the bolts you remove.. zip lock bags work well if the bolts are the same... if they differnt... make a template( cardboad and sharpie work very well for this). Mark the orientation of the bike on the bosrd and then draw a rough outline of whatever you are disaaaembling. Then, one bolt at a time, press into carb board so you kno which bolt goes where. Take youre time and be patient, i have to tell my 17 year old this dtuff all the time becsuse he tries to blast through these tasks and gets nervous and then makes mistakes and cross threads holes and looses things.. nuts, bolts tools....
	1

07-10-2017, 11:21 PM	#10
leonj2932 Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: San Francisco/Bay Area Posts: 31	no sorry , its definetely something, when i bought the bike there was no oil, 1000 miles later and im just a mess with this bike still.
	0