Reminder Beep for Turn Signals

[Easy Rider]

More discussion of this in the "Best Mod. I've done so far" thread too.

(Why am I starting a new topic? Because I think the title should be a clear roadmap to what's inside.....and when the discussion strays away from the main topic, a new one should be started.....but that's just me! Does not apply to "off topic" rambling threads as there isn't usually much in there worth searching for !!)

I revised my beepers today.
Total parts cost ~$7.50, 2 each Radio Shack 273-059 beepers.
Total time = 15 minutes (more like 45 in you do it "right")

EDIT: Third time is the charm. The buzzers listed above are STILL not quite loud enough. Will be changing over to the 85 dB model, 273-060, at about $9 for two when time permits.

For easy access to the work area, lift the storage bin OUT (straight up). ( It's amazing what's under there!)
When done, put the bin back in carefully, so as not to snag and break any wires, etc.

Attached one to each side, similar to what others have done but I'm lazy so I just stripped the wires on the buzzers, pulled back the sleeve on the connectors going to the rear lights, wrapped the wire around the bare connector and shoved the sleeve back on (will come back later and solder for long term stability).

Black wire from buzzer goes to black/white wire (ground) on each side. Red buzzer wire goes to black wire on one side and green wire on the other. The buzzers are so light that mounting is not really required. Long term I think I will twist the wires together and nylon tie-wrap the little bundle to the side frame bar.......to take up some of the slack left from the original attachment of the wires with a large black tie-wrap.

I think the volume will be about right; haven't started the engine yet to be sure but my first go was with a smaller buzzer and it wasn't quite enough.

Now, let's see if I can attach a crappy picture from my cell phone:



Looks like it worked!

P.S. Just a note: 2 buzzers are required because there is no common, flashing, positive wire available. Due to some "creative" wiring by Suzuki, the wire common to both signals changes polarity depending on which side is flashing.

ANOTHER EDIT: Check your installation after a few rides. I found mine were not secured tight enough and the vibration had started rubbing the insulation off one wire.

[jonathan180iq]

3 pictures posted in a year.... Is that a personal best? :tongue:

Looks like a pretty solid write-up, Easy. Nice work.

PS:
Is that a personal note on what oil you last used?

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by jonathan180iq

3 pictures posted in a year.... Is that a personal best? :tongue:

PS:
Is that a personal note on what oil you last used?

Well, if you've seen one GZ, you've pretty much seen them ALL.

That's a reminder for old farts......so I don't have to fish out the owner's manual at every oil change!

I also have tiny little number stickers by each valve stem.....for a similar reason.

[bigwonton]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

P.S. Just a note: 2 buzzers are required because there is no common, flashing, positive wire available. Due to some "creative" wiring by Suzuki, the wire common to both signals changes polarity depending on which side is flashing.

In that case, you should be able to use a relay and cut it down to one buzzer. If you use an old mechanical/solenoid relay with no diode, you should be able to pull the contact closed with either polarity input. Just hook the respective buzzer wires to ground / normally open and the +12V to the common.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by bigwonton

In that case, you should be able to use a relay and cut it down to one buzzer. If you use an old mechanical/solenoid relay with no diode, you should be able to pull the contact closed with either polarity input. Just hook the respective buzzer wires to ground / normally open and the +12V to the common.

I can see you need a refresher in K.I.S.S. :lol:

Or in my case it would be lazy old fart syndrome. :roll:

It could be done with a diode bridge too.......and you probably could find the flasher relay down in there somewhere and find a single lead that would work on the bottom of the socket that you need to stand on your head to get to.......

***BUT***

With the price of a second buzzer being only ~$3.50, none of the other options are likely to be that cheap, it's guaranteed that they won't be that easy, they probably are more prone to failure and more difficult to remove if you change your mind.

The lazy (simple) solution often IS the best !!

[bigwonton]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

It could be done with a diode bridge too.......and you probably could find the flasher relay down in there somewhere and find a single lead that would work on the bottom of the socket that you need to stand on your head to get to.......

Yes, but can you accept the two diode drops from a full-wave rectifier? :neener:

Sigh, I often have to remind myself of K.I.S.S. (and I resemble that last S alot!)

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by bigwonton

Yes, but can you accept the two diode drops from a full-wave rectifier? :neener:

Sigh, I often have to remind myself of K.I.S.S. (and I resemble that last S alot!)

What? "Two diode drops" ??? :??:

If you're talking about the forward resistance of the two active diodes in the bridge, it would be on the order of tenths of a volt (or less) and the buzzers are rated to operate down to about 4 volts.

(Or maybe the second part comes into play ???) :lol: :cool:

[bigwonton]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

What? "Two diode drops" ??? :??:

If you're talking about the forward resistance of the two active diodes in the bridge, it would be on the order of tenths of a volt (or less) and the buzzers are rated to operate down to about 4 volts.

(Or maybe the second part comes into play ???) :lol: :cool:

Yes, I was just being facetious (I was hoping the "neener" would communicate that clearly).

[5th_bike]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

If you're talking about the forward resistance of the two active diodes in the bridge, it would be on the order of tenths of a volt (or less) and the buzzers are rated to operate down to about 4 volts.

A regular silicon diode drop is typically 0.6 volts. Germanium, 0.2 V.

I switch the turn signal off quite consistently (I also used to have Citroen 2CVs that didn't have the signal auto-cancel...) otherwise I would make one with two diodes, one each off each wire from the signal switch to the signal lights, preferably somewhere near the saddle (tap off wires to the rear signal lights) to one piezo buzzer. And I would try to include a relay such that the buzzer would only beep when in gear, not when in neutral.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by 5th_bike

otherwise I would make one with two diodes, one each off each wire from the signal switch to the signal lights, preferably somewhere near the saddle (tap off wires to the rear signal lights) to one piezo buzzer. And I would try to include a relay such that the buzzer would only beep when in gear, not when in neutral.

Let's see.......with only 2 diodes, would that light both turn signals together ???
Too lazy to draw it out.......'cause mine is working and I don't care!

I have discovered, though, that when mounted under the seat, the buzzers I got are not QUITE loud enough. I think the next size bigger would be perfect..........but at this point, I'm not likely to spend the $7 to find out.