Battery keeps dying...

[alantf]

[attachment=0:2zuhy665]img023.jpg[/attachment:2zuhy665]

Originally Posted by mrlmd1

Like I asked you before, are you turning off the bike with the key in the PARK position instead of OFF, and thereby leaving on the rear lights and draining the battery?

This is one question you haven't answered. Some of our members don't know that if you turn the switch all the way anticlockwise, you are turning the rear light on when you leave the bike (and therefore running down the battery). You should turn the key one position less (see diagram) before removing it.

[DieHardBigRaw]

I always switch the ignition to OFF, I think once I locked the front fork, but I couldn't even turn the key to the PARK symbol, so I know that is not the issue. Besides the battery is not completely dead, like I said I have lights when I turn it on. I will see if I can get a charger and multitester and go from there. I will keep you guys updated.

[mrlmd1]

You can have lights with 10 - 11 V but that's nowhere near enough to turn over the starter motor which draws 60 amps. The clicking you hear when you hit the start button is the relay and the starter making noise but not rotating = not enough amps in the battery.
To go over this again here - a fully charged SLA battery reads 12,66V - a VRLA is 12.85V
SLA 12.45 V = 75% charge = VRLA 12.65 V
SLA 12,24V = 50% charge = VRLA 12.35V
SLA12.06V = 25% charge = VRLA 12.00V
SLA 11.80 V = 0% charge = VRLA 11.80V
After you get the multitester/voltmeter let us know what the battery reads at rest and with the bike running fast idle or midrange, measured at the battery terminals. And get the battery load tested. Until you can do that, there's nothing else we can tell you.

[alantf]

Originally Posted by DieHardBigRaw

I always switch the ignition to OFF, I think once I locked the front fork, but I couldn't even turn the key to the PARK symbol,

Sounds like you need to lubricate the ignition lock. I know I have to oil mine every so often, to make the key turn easier. Don't forget, it's open to the elements. In "off" the steering doesn't lock.

[DieHardBigRaw]

ok, I charged the battery to 12.8 V, I put it on the bike, started it and when I revved the engine the Volts dropped to 12.2/12.0. At rest its 12.5/12.6

[DieHardBigRaw]

I just had it load tested and it test at 12.5V. I am wondering if I am not driving it enough to recharge the battery. I live on a military installation and drive it about 2 miles back and forth to work about 4 times a day (to work, lunch, and then home.) so I am only driving it maybe 8-10 miles a day, but am starting it 4 - 5 times? Any thoughts? Thanks guys!

[blaine]

Originally Posted by DieHardBigRaw

I just had it load tested and it test at 12.5V. I am wondering if I am not driving it enough to recharge the battery. I live on a military installation and drive it about 2 miles back and forth to work about 4 times a day (to work, lunch, and then home.) so I am only driving it maybe 8-10 miles a day, but am starting it 4 - 5 times? Any thoughts? Thanks guys!

Yep,your not driving far enough between starts for the battery to recharge.It may help to keep it on a charger/tender at night.
:cool:

[dentheman]

Originally Posted by blaine

Yep,your not driving far enough between starts for the battery to recharge.It may help to keep it on a charger/tender at night.
:cool:

And take her for nice long, enjoyable rides when you can! It will be good for you and her. (my bike is a she)

[DieHardBigRaw]

Oh I try too last few weeks have been hectic. Thanks for being patient with me. I feel kinda retarded right now, lol. I'm gonna leave this up for future newbies, but It would appear the problem is resolved. thanks again all!!

[OldNTired]

Originally Posted by DieHardBigRaw

ok, I charged the battery to 12.8 V, I put it on the bike, started it and when I revved the engine the Volts dropped to 12.2/12.0. At rest its 12.5/12.6

That sounds exactly the way that my rectifier acted when it died!
It also explains all of your problems.
If you MUST drive it before you replace the rectifier,
only drive for SHORT distances,
and charge the battery after you drive, or else you will
either break down, or ruin the new battery,
or both.
But first, BUY A MULTIMETER!!!!
Download the manual from this site, and test your stator coils.
Two tests, really. First check for a ground with the engine off,
then check for AC voltage when the bike is running.
The manual will tell you how,
but if you have trouble just ask here.
I just went through all of this not long ago myself.
You can expect to pay between $75 to $150 for a new rectifier.
If you are lucky, you can try for a used one (ebay?). They cost
as low as about $10.
Don't be afraid to do it yourself, it will save you a lot
and you will learn a lot about your bike.