Oil Change Question

johnsandlin · 01-31-2008, 03:51 PM

Is it neccessary to change the washer on the oil plug? When I change the oil in my Volvo S70, I always have to change the crush washer on the oil plug to make sure it doesn't leak. I recently changed the oil on the GZ250 and notice that I have a slight drip on plug. I've torqued it to the correct setting...20 ft-lbs I believe. If you do have to change the washer, any suggestions on where to get it. I've looked at BikeBandit.com, but don't see the part listed. I did change the oil filter also, but did not replace the O-ring...so far no leaks there. I used a K&N-136 filter, but was suprised that it didn't come with o-rings.

Thanks....

**jonathan180iq** · 01-31-2008, 04:13 PM

I have changed my oil twice and have yet to replace the washer and I haven't experienced any dripping.

Autozone, or any other auto parts store, usually has a variety pack of drain-plug washers. I'm sure one of those will work. You should be able to use just about any foam-style washer that fits over the threads. It doesn't have to be bike specific.

Are you using synthetic or regular oil?

johnsandlin · 01-31-2008, 04:57 PM

Thanks Jonathan for the info. I think I'll just try and re-tighten it a bit to see if it stops. I read most of the write-ups about how good synthetic was and went ahead and made the switch. I used Castrol Syntec 10W-30 since I really like Castrol and run it my cars. I did notice quite a bit of difference in the shifting smoothness. Some of that could have been due to just dirty oil, but so far I'm pleased. Engine seems to run a lot smoother as well. :2tup:

Water Warrior 2 · 01-31-2008, 11:17 PM

John, your bike will not like 10-30 weight oil for long. It is probably an energy conserving oil that contains additives that will harm the clutch plates. 10-40 oils normally don't have the energy conserving additives. Check the oil bottle for the designation. It will or will not be in the bottom half of the circle on the label.

**jonathan180iq** · 02-01-2008, 08:41 AM

The change from old oil to new oil is pretty drastic but switching from dino oil to synthetic is leaps and bounds above that.
The hard clunking of of the shifter is greatly reduced. I would imagine that you've also noticed some easier starts in this cold weather. I know that I have.

Given all that synthetic is capable of, I don't know whY regular oil still exists.

In my wife's car, which tops out around 20-21 mpg consistently on regular oil, the use of synthetic oil increased her fuel economy to 22.5 mpg. That doesn't seem like a lot, but it is consistent and over a long period of time can make a difference.

Add that to the fact that synthetic is said offer better overall protection and you can see why everyone speaks so highly of it.

Jaime · 02-01-2008, 09:05 AM

Gasket Suzuki OEM#: 09168-14004

johnsandlin · 02-01-2008, 12:48 PM

Thanks Guys...my bad on the oil type...it was Castrol Syntec 10W-40 not 10W-30. I knew that I had read about the additive in 10W-30 and to not use that type. Also thanks Jaime for the gasket part number.

Badbob · 02-02-2008, 12:43 PM

I haven't changed my drain plug washer in 22,000 miles and it doesn't leak. I do have one in the spare parts bin just in case.

I too am a big fan of synthetic oils. I'm currently using Mobile 1 15-50 V-Twin motorcycle oil in my GZ250.

Water Warrior 2 · 02-02-2008, 02:39 PM

Amsoil M/C 20-50 synthetic in both bikes.

01-31-2008, 03:51 PM	#1
johnsandlin Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Kennesaw, GA Posts: 34	Oil Change Question Is it neccessary to change the washer on the oil plug? When I change the oil in my Volvo S70, I always have to change the crush washer on the oil plug to make sure it doesn't leak. I recently changed the oil on the GZ250 and notice that I have a slight drip on plug. I've torqued it to the correct setting...20 ft-lbs I believe. If you do have to change the washer, any suggestions on where to get it. I've looked at BikeBandit.com, but don't see the part listed. I did change the oil filter also, but did not replace the O-ring...so far no leaks there. I used a K&N-136 filter, but was suprised that it didn't come with o-rings. Thanks.... __________________ GZ250 - Cure for Midlife Crisis Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

01-31-2008, 04:57 PM	#3
johnsandlin Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Kennesaw, GA Posts: 34	Thanks Jonathan for the info. I think I'll just try and re-tighten it a bit to see if it stops. I read most of the write-ups about how good synthetic was and went ahead and made the switch. I used Castrol Syntec 10W-30 since I really like Castrol and run it my cars. I did notice quite a bit of difference in the shifting smoothness. Some of that could have been due to just dirty oil, but so far I'm pleased. Engine seems to run a lot smoother as well. :2tup: __________________ GZ250 - Cure for Midlife Crisis Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

02-01-2008, 08:41 AM	#5
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	The change from old oil to new oil is pretty drastic but switching from dino oil to synthetic is leaps and bounds above that. The hard clunking of of the shifter is greatly reduced. I would imagine that you've also noticed some easier starts in this cold weather. I know that I have. Given all that synthetic is capable of, I don't know whY regular oil still exists. In my wife's car, which tops out around 20-21 mpg consistently on regular oil, the use of synthetic oil increased her fuel economy to 22.5 mpg. That doesn't seem like a lot, but it is consistent and over a long period of time can make a difference. Add that to the fact that synthetic is said offer better overall protection and you can see why everyone speaks so highly of it. Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

02-01-2008, 09:05 AM	#6
Jaime Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Spain Posts: 102	Gasket Suzuki OEM#: 09168-14004 __________________ Trying my best in English
	0

02-01-2008, 12:48 PM	#7
johnsandlin Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Kennesaw, GA Posts: 34	Thanks Guys...my bad on the oil type...it was Castrol Syntec 10W-40 not 10W-30. I knew that I had read about the additive in 10W-30 and to not use that type. Also thanks Jaime for the gasket part number. __________________ GZ250 - Cure for Midlife Crisis
	0

01-31-2008, 04:13 PM	#2
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	I have changed my oil twice and have yet to replace the washer and I haven't experienced any dripping. Autozone, or any other auto parts store, usually has a variety pack of drain-plug washers. I'm sure one of those will work. You should be able to use just about any foam-style washer that fits over the threads. It doesn't have to be bike specific. Are you using synthetic or regular oil?
	0

01-31-2008, 11:17 PM	#4
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	John, your bike will not like 10-30 weight oil for long. It is probably an energy conserving oil that contains additives that will harm the clutch plates. 10-40 oils normally don't have the energy conserving additives. Check the oil bottle for the designation. It will or will not be in the bottom half of the circle on the label.
	0

02-02-2008, 12:43 PM	#8
Badbob Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Tallahassee FL Posts: 945	I haven't changed my drain plug washer in 22,000 miles and it doesn't leak. I do have one in the spare parts bin just in case. I too am a big fan of synthetic oils. I'm currently using Mobile 1 15-50 V-Twin motorcycle oil in my GZ250. __________________ My GZ250 Blog Facebook Pinterest Google+ Tumblr YouTube Lumber Jocks
	0

02-02-2008, 02:39 PM	#9
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	Amsoil M/C 20-50 synthetic in both bikes.
	0

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode