Handlebar Length

[alantf]

Originally Posted by jamezgreen

My front brake is gone. I've tried to bleed the line and the handle is pumping plenty of fluid,

o.k. let's get EXACT What do you mean by " the brake is gone"? Was it working before you changed the bars? Does it work at all? Does it grate when you use it? Is the fluid coming out all the time, or just out of the bleeding nipple when you loosen it?

Afraid that until you say EXACTLY what's happening, or happened, there's a million things it COULD be.

[jamezgreen]

No problem. I guess I'm not getting pressure build up in the line enough to compress the disc brake at all. When I pump the brake lever, fuild will squirt out of the bleed nipple accordingly, and there is plenty of fluid in the resivoir. However, the brake pad doesn't engage at all. Not even little bit. It's weird. I did have to re-route some cabeling with the new bars to better accomate and I disconnected the brake line where it meets the resivoir on the handlebars briefly but that was it. ??

[Sarris]

You need to properly re-bleed the brakes using someone else to pump the lever for you.

The procedure is, be sure the bleeder on the caliper is closed. Then pump the lever 5 times and hold. Open the bleeder on the caliper, releasing fluid and air. Close the bleeder and then release the lever.

Repeat until the lever feels firm again. (4 or 5 times is usually sufficient) Be sure you keep the fluid reservoir full.

Don't pump the lever when the bleeder is open because when you release it will pull in air and defeat the process.

[alantf]

Originally Posted by Sarris

You need to properly re-bleed the brakes using someone else to pump the lever for you.

The procedure is, be sure the bleeder on the caliper is closed. Then pump the lever 5 times and hold. Open the bleeder on the caliper, releasing fluid and air. Close the bleeder and then release the lever.

Repeat until the lever feels firm again. (4 or 5 times is usually sufficient) Be sure you keep the fluid reservoir full.

Don't pump the lever when the bleeder is open because when you release it will pull in air and defeat the process.

Or see my post on bleeding (in detail):- "troubleshooting" - "in connection front brake lever problem - Now screwed up"

[jamezgreen]

Ok, this front brake is driving me crazy. I've been trying to bleed it for 3 days now. Just can't get enough pressure build up in the line to work the caliper. Brake fluid only comes out of the bleed nipple if I lossen it quite a bit not just 1 turn as you would think. I went out and bought a bleed kit, bottle of dot 4 brake fluid and I've been pumping that brake lever like a mad dog but no luck. ??? Is there something I should/can be checking on the master cylinder itself?

[jamezgreen]

As an additional note. I haven't been able to get the brake system to pump fluid out the bleeder valve uphill, or through the tubing to a higher elevation in my little bottle. Seems like the pressure just isn't there which makes me suspect the master cylinder even more. But why would it completely die just from disconnecting the brake line once when it was working beautifully before?

[jamezgreen]

Update! I can stop the bike! Another hour in the garage did the trick. Patience is a virtue. Disconnected the brake line a third time at master cylinder put my thumb over the hold had plenty of pressure. Re-attached then disconnected the line where it met the caliper, plenty of pressure there too. Had to play with the bleed nipple to get it just right where air was leaving, and fluid sucking back in and many many brake lever pumps later.... pressure restored. Thanks to all for your help.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by jamezgreen

Had to play with the bleed nipple to get it just right where air was leaving, and fluid sucking back in and many many brake lever pumps later.... pressure restored. Thanks to all for your help.

Don't want to beat a dead horse BUT.....I think the bulk of your problem is included in your statement above. Sometimes is is virtually impossible to get the air out IF YOU LET FLUID SUCK BACK IN THROUGH THE BLEED NIPPLE.

You should:
Open nipple or banjo bolt or whatever point you want to purge
THEN
pull the lever
THEN
close the bleed point BEFORE releasing the lever <<<<<< THIS IS THE CRITICAL POINT

This will suck additional fluid in through the master cylinder reservoir so you must watch and keep it filled.

Somebody said that earlier but you might have missed the details.