Help! Bike cranks fine but won't start.

[DSmithjr]

Yeah, I'm thinking I'm going to have to walk through several of these pages in chapter 6. This electrical stuff is not my cup of tea, but I should be able to get though it. I'm going to test the ignitor first, then work my way to the coil. Something's just not right here.

One quick question: should I buy these parts from a local dealer, or is there a good website I could check out?

[patrick_777]

Try Bikebandit.com and/or cheapcycleparts.com I've had incredibly good experiences with both of them, and some bad experiences with both RonAyers.com and DennisKirk.com. The ignitor looks like it's pricey, so you may want to look at a salvage part or find someone parting one out. I'm not sure if "version" is still around, but he might still have some pieces left, if you can get him to answer an email or PM.

[DSmithjr]

Oh crap! Knowing me, I'm sure it's the ignitor. It always has to be the most expensive part. :biggrin:

[adrianinflorida]

Here ya go,
54.99 on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-00-01 ... 240%3A1318

[mrlmd1]

Stupid question - Do you have the switch on the right handlebar set to the RUN position, or is it in the kill engine position? The bike will never start unless the switch is set correctly.
Look for the simple things first instead of all the exotic ones.

[patrick_777]

The bike wouldn't even turn over if the switch was off.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by mrlmd1

Stupid question - Do you have the switch on the right handlebar set to the RUN position, or is it in the kill engine position? The bike will never start unless the switch is set correctly.
Look for the simple things first instead of all the exotic ones.

K.I.S.S definitely but I think ANY of the safeties or the kill switch will also prevent the starter from turning.....but I don't have one to try it on anymore.

Like someone else mentioned, the float or needle valve might not be working right and dumping raw fuel into the cylinder. I would think that would show up as an overflow if left in the PRIme position very long though. Maybe the float is just set wrong.

Any chance the exhaust is plugged?

I certainly would NOT be buying electronic parts yet; a nice snappy blue/white spark pretty much proves those parts good....unless maybe the timing is WAY off...but that is highly unlikely.

Compression check is definitely in order, just to eliminate a couple of things if nothing else.

AND this is just one more example of WHY one should NEVER, NEVER, NEVER buy a bike that is not running......unless you really want a project bike. Make the seller fix it FIRST.

[DSmithjr]

Well, I have a lot of stuff to check out here. First, I’m sure it’s not the kill switch. My bike won’t crank over if it’s turned off. Second, 55 bucks isn’t a bad price for that ignitor. I might have to pick that up just for the hell of it.

This bike is really odd. Everything seems to be fine, but it just won’t start. And yes, this is exactly why you shouldn’t buy a bike that’s not running. I’ve done it before so I figured I could do it again, but I’m beginning to lose confidence. Everything on the bike looks good, but I’ll be damned if I can’t get this thing to run. I will do a compression check today. The bike sounds fine when it’s cranking over, but for all I know there could be some internal engine damage. The bike was over full of oil when I got it. I probably drained about a gallon out of it. I’m not sure that this would cause any serious damage, but I guess it could have.

I’m listening to all of your ideas. Anything I can try, I’ll try. To me, like someone else already mentioned, it seems like it’s not getting spark. I mean for the bike to do nothing even when starter fluid is sprayed into the carb it just seems like a spark issue to me. If it would at least give me a little sputter on the starter fluid, I’d have something to go on, but it doesn’t do anything.

I’ve checked again and again for spark and it’s there. I wondered if the timing could be off. Seems unlikely to me, but I’ve never had one these bikes before. If that happens, I’ll try to fix it. I know if the timing was WAY off I should at least get a back fire, but I’m not getting anything.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by DSmithjr

I probably drained about a gallon out of it. I’m not sure that this would cause any serious damage, but I guess it could have.

Ah HA !! A good clue.
Don't suppose you got a smell of that "oil" you drained out, did you ??

I'm betting it was about half GAS.......that leaked into the cylinder because the float wasn't closing.....and maybe STILL isn't closing.....thus explaining a WAY too rich a mixture AND why adding even MORE fuel, in the form of starting fluid, doesn't produce any result. Also betting the your plug is wet all the time.

If I'm right, you need to:
1) fix the carb. so it doesn't dump fuel into the block anymore.
2) at the first tiny sign of it actually firing, stop and change the oil (/gas mixture).
3) run it a few minutes/miles to get it hot and then CHANGE THE OIL AGAIN.
Hopefully the gas in with the oil didn't do any permanent damage but it WILL if you don't get it flushed out good.

[Water Warrior 2]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Ah HA !! A good clue.
Don't suppose you got a smell of that "oil" you drained out, did you ??

I'm betting it was about half GAS.......that leaked into the cylinder because the float wasn't closing.....and maybe STILL isn't closing.....thus explaining a WAY too rich a mixture AND why adding even MORE fuel, in the form of starting fluid, doesn't produce any result. Also betting the your plug is wet all the time.

If I'm right, you need to:
1) fix the carb. so it doesn't dump fuel into the block anymore.
2) at the first tiny sign of it actually firing, stop and change the oil (/gas mixture).
3) run it a few minutes/miles to get it hot and then CHANGE THE OIL AGAIN.
Hopefully the gas in with the oil didn't do any permanent damage but it WILL if you don't get it flushed out good.

Will add my 2 cents worth to what Easy said. Even if the oil doesn't smell like gas you might want to dump it all. New moto oil and filter. You really have no idea what the PO pour in the crankcase. Could even be 5W20 for a cage and bad news for the GZ.