Warm Blooded Bikes?

[alanmcorcoran]

Mine might not be set up properly. You guys might recall that my left blinker didn't work, the mirrors fell off and the tires were not properly inflated, despite the unconscionable "dealer prep" charge. I will investigate the idle setting, but I am inclined to leave it alone as the engine has never stalled after ten minutes of riding. I just think mine just takes a little longer to stabilize. I'd rather be a little careful in the ten minute zone than have the idle up too high. I stalled today at my second stop sign, about 30 seconds from the house. Did not have the choke all the way on though (about 3/4). (It was about 65 today!) Wouldn't catch with the starter so I just rolled it and let the clutch out. I've gotten pretty good at that - can pretty much do it as easily as pushing the starter button at this point.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by alanmcorcoran

Mine might not be set up properly.
Did not have the choke all the way on though (about 3/4). (It was about 65 today!) Wouldn't catch with the starter so I just rolled it and let the clutch out.

Holy crap! :shocked:
If I leave the choke at 3/4 for more than 10 seconds or so, mine sounds like a Piper Cub about to take off. Add that to the not starting and I think you definitely have something wrong.
Has it always behaved like that?
I think you need some warranty work and/or a carb cleaning (yes, at only 2800 miles).

[alanmcorcoran]

It's basically flaky. If I leave it up at 3/4 sometimes it races, but if I move it down, it will die. In fact, If I just leave it alone, it will race, then not race. It seems to have a real problem with going from very high engine/ transmission revs, back down to very low. That's when it will stall. If I'm sitting at a light, sometimes it will drop from racing down to slow idle, and vice versa. That's why I thought there was a thermostat.

But, like I said, after about ten minutes, it all settles down and I turn the choke completely off (wide open) and it idles very low, quietly, and doesn't quit.

I have noticed a rather sharp drop in mileage of late as well. Used to get 170ish before I switched to reserve. Now, I've run out in the 140's. I am riding it more aggressively, higher rpms all around and harder acceleration.

If there was a problem with the carburator, wouldn't run like crap after it warmed up too?

[alantf]

At the moment it's about 10ºC/ 50ºF. I don't have any problems starting without the choke (European/Spanish GZ), & it warms up completely after about 10 miles, & then the engine note changes to a throaty rumble, & all's fine.
The problem I've always had (I've got 9000km on the clock now) is that whatever the temperature, & whatever the engine temperature, if I close the throttle completely the bike gives a sudden jerk as the revs die, so I have to get the clutch in at a much higher speed than the handbook says, just to avoid the kick in the back. I've never had this with any other bike. Is this common to the GZ, or just to my bike? incidentally, the tickover is set high enough so that once I'm out of the garage & onto the open road, it never stalls at stop signs.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by alanmcorcoran

If there was a problem with the carbureator, wouldn't run like crap after ti warmed up too?

Maybe not. The little beasts are so lean to start with that any tiny little thing can throw it over the edge to "too lean to run right". Being lean is not so important when the engine is warm.

Most newb's tend to gauge the idle speed by what they are used to hearing and feeling in a car. Not the same. Most modern cars idle about 800 rpm; most bikes a minimum of 1000-1100. A proper idle on a GZ "feels" a little on the fast side.

I still think it would be worth your while to spend $4 on some Gumout, Berryman's or Seafoam and put a healthy dose in a couple of tankfulls.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by alantf

The problem I've always had (I've got 9000km on the clock now) is that whatever the temperature, & whatever the engine temperature, if I close the throttle completely the bike gives a sudden jerk as the revs die,

It's normal but seems to be more pronounced on the GZ than other bikes I've owned.
You can minimize it by keeping the idle speed UP and being sure you don't have too much slack in the chain. Others have reported that there is too much slack in the rubber drive cushion inside the rear wheel and changing that helps.

About the only way to eliminate it completely is to be careful not to close the throttle abruptly.

[Water Warrior 2]

I think Easy has the answer. Too lean to run right. Lynda's bike can't make up it's mind on how to run when started up on a colder day. Won't run with full choke without screaming at high revs and backing off the choke a bit will kill it almost instantly. Seems to be a combo of choke and throttle to keep it running until some heat developes and it is happy after that. Fuel Injection is the ultimate answer.

[alanmcorcoran]

Originally Posted by Water Warrior

Lynda's bike can't make up it's mind on how to run when started up on a colder day. Won't run with full choke without screaming at high revs and backing off the choke a bit will kill it almost instantly. Seems to be a combo of choke and throttle to keep it running until some heat developes and it is happy after that.

:plus1:

That describes my GZ perfectly.

[Water Warrior 2]

Originally Posted by alanmcorcoran

:plus1:

That describes my GZ perfectly.

Smaller engines with smaller carbs would also be more sensitive to a choke setting. Larger engines will be more forgiving of fuel mixtures in most cases. Now all you need is a FI V-twin from Japan. I would suggest a VStrom but I don't think you would like it (well you might), it has a FI 650 cc / 90 degree V-twin that is so smooth that nothing ever vibrates.

[alanmcorcoran]

I think the Stratoliner had a FI V-twin (but I might be mistaken.) It certainly didn't vibrate, and was super smooth. I had a grin on a mile wide the whole time I was on it and I'm not much of a grinner.