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Old 02-25-2014, 06:41 PM   #1
bucsfin
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Starting Issue

Hi, new to this forum and to motorcycles. I recently purchased a 2004 Suzuki GZ250 from a state auction to learn how to ride. I'm super excited and really like the size. The bike only has 3200 miles and had a known starting issue when I purchased. A friend of mine also purchased the same model only difference is 2005 model year. I have switched out and put on the other bike, the ignition coil, ignitor, and regulator/rectifier to test and all worked perfectly. I also checked the fuses, checked the spark plug for fouling, and replaced the battery. All switches seem to be in working order. I'm unsure about the side stand switch and don't know how to test it. The lights come on, the neutral light is on, the engine turns over, but I can't get it to even begin to show signs of attempting to start. I'm hoping to gain some knowledge and possibly a solution to this issue. Thanks in advance.



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Old 02-25-2014, 06:52 PM   #2
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Did you switch the petcock(fuel valve) to prime for a few seconds? The carb may be dry if the bike sat for a long time. You will likely need to drain the old gas out and refill the tank with fresh gas and some Seafoam. Also make sure the battery is fully charged to help the bike start. A partially discharged battery will not have enough oomph to start the bike.
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Old 02-25-2014, 07:35 PM   #3
raul10141964
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use the choke, this bikes do not start with out choke



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Old 02-25-2014, 09:35 PM   #4
mainlinecoffee
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Sea foam is never a bad idea,have you inspected the air filter? It may have been re purposed as a mouse nest
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:38 PM   #5
bucsfin
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Thanks for the responses. I have checked the air filter and it's new. The battery is new and fully charged. I have used the choke as well. Yesterday, I actually got the bike to start. I had cleaned the kill switch and kick stand switch with electrical cleaner. I was then going back through all the fuses with a tester to make sure everything was getting power. I would periodically try to start the bike, and out of nowhere, it fired right, no hesitation. I restarted in 3 or 4 times after that and it fired right up. Today I went to start it, and no spark. same problem all over again. I did the same procedure of cleaning the switches and nothing worked. I'm thoroughly confused.



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Old 02-27-2014, 09:46 PM   #6
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When you say "nothing worked' are you referring to no lights/power or is the starter whirling the engine over but the bike won't start? Oh, just a thought here. Are you remembering to pull in the clutch when trying to start the bike. The clutch lever has a safety switch for your protection. These switches can also make poor contact or come loose every now and again.
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:20 AM   #7
jonathan180iq
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I agree with the thought WW suggested. Since you got it to fire up just fine 3-4 times in a row, the issue is something as simple as a loose contact somewhere. Now, where that that, I don't really know. But there are only 3-4 safety loops in the system and you seem to have a good handle on where they are. Something is loose somewhere and not making contact. Just be thorough and go over them again, given them a wiggle to see what's loose and what's not.
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:56 AM   #8
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You could try the simple way first. It's not expensive, so if it doesn't work you haven't lost much......Get a spray can of contact cleaner and blast it into the clutch switch, red cut out and side stand switch. Work them a couple of times and repeat the spray. This worked on mine. I found that it was the clutch switch intermittently sticking.
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Old 03-02-2014, 12:08 AM   #9
mainlinecoffee
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Honestly it may not be a bad idea to bypass the clutch switch l togather. Just pride them twist tape and tuck. One less problem to deal with later
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Old 03-02-2014, 05:39 AM   #10
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Just twisting the wires together and taping is not a good idea. If they start untwisting they'll cause a high resistance. Soldering is best, but a choc block will do (a bit bulky) if you can't solder. Then double the soldered ends back and use a bit of heat shrink for a neat, insulated, finish.

That's if you WANT to remove the safety device. Contact cleaner usually works just fine.
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