So... electrical problem... This should be fun.

spldart · 11-25-2015, 12:20 PM

NOT!

Anywho.
Started my bike at work to head home. Started fine.
Heading down the first stretch of freeway. Everything seems fine.
Exit and pull up to a car at the intersection.... My headlight and running lights are not as
bright as they are suppossed to be.... Hrmmmm.
Get to next stretch of freeway and go more miles and pull off to my favorite sports bar...
Headlight and running lights even less bright.
Oh $#!7.......
But that didn't stop me from having my shot of jack d and some dos equis

I'm close to home now....
Go to crank and it turns over twice real slow but doesn't start.
I immeadiately know I've been running off my battery this 22 mile commute....
So I give 'er a little push then hit start again while popping the clutch.
She's started.
I get home.. By now my headlight is an amber color

I'm totally

as I have had engine problems and brake problems galore with this bike.
Battery now on charger. And its taking charge well. Like a healthy battery should.

So.... Anyone wanna lay odds on my charge system failure point before I start troubleshooting?

spldart · 11-25-2015, 01:05 PM

Update:

Stator ohms out normal.

Bridge rectifier passes service manual passive test using diode check with dmm.

I'm charging the battery in 15 minute spurts on and off cuz I only got a car charger and it's lowest
setting tries to charge and 4 to 5 amps which is a bit much for this little MF battery.

spldart · 11-25-2015, 04:10 PM

Update:

Stator puts out 25 volts ac at idle. I didn't bother revving my cold motor to 5k... I'm pretty positive that
it would have easily hit 50 or 60 volts if I had.
Besides... All coils ohm out where they are supposed to....
Wiring harness between rectifier/regulator also checks just fine.
All quick disconnect connections are clean.
However nothing seems to be coming out the RR assy bike running and revved.

Therefore I'm ordering a new RR assy on amazon.

Battery took a charge just fine and starts and runs the bike just fine even without a working
charge system.
I went ahead and disconnected my headlight to reduce the battery load by near 5 amps so as to
allow me to run local errands operating just on battery juice.
Finishing topping off the battery charge now.

spldart · 11-25-2015, 07:12 PM

I have two possibilities:

1) I overheated the bike kinda bad thursday last week. Considering the position of the RR assy this
could have caused a preme failure.
2) The positive terminal of the battery was loose but not rattle loose. Maybe less than adequate
connection caused the RR assy failure?
3) I just don't know what caused it

blaine · 11-25-2015, 09:19 PM

A loose battery connection can cause regulator/rectifier failure & can also cause problems with ECU. (Electronic box).

spldart · 11-25-2015, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blaine

A loose battery connection can cause regulator/rectifier failure & can also cause problems with ECU. (Electronic box).

Well at least I didn't vaporize my ECU

spldart · 11-25-2015, 11:17 PM

Added two car horns and a scosche relay. Ran a wire to the battery with a fuse within one inch to get juice for the horns. Wire kinda flattened out allowing the positive cable to move a little back and forth but not jiggle. I guess I'll blame it on my horn installation. But! Considering my big horns have saved my @$$ on several occasions I wont allow myself to be

To those not looking and not signalling I sound like a truck.

spldart · 11-25-2015, 11:20 PM

Stupid thanksgiving means it will take a week to get the part though

Water Warrior 2 · 11-27-2015, 06:33 PM

Make sure both battery cables are clean and tight. A good idea is to put a star washer on the battery bolt before you tighten it down. This is a cure for some bikes that have a built-in vibration that messes with battery bolts. This could actually be your problem to begin with so do that and redo your tests to see if it helps. Fingers crossed.

chandlerbingfl · 11-28-2015, 12:52 AM

Seems to me that this should be an easy fix. If you can push start the bike than the "charging" system should be working. I had a problem one time where the bike would idle normally but when I tried to take off the bike would die. Turns out it was my battery. I guess it was because my battery was the "weak link" in the electrical system. Once I replaced the battery I had no further issues...

My post probably won't help but might hbe food for thought..

Good luck!

chandlerbingfl

11-25-2015, 12:20 PM	#1
spldart Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Stafford, Texas Posts: 604	So... electrical problem... This should be fun. NOT! Anywho. Started my bike at work to head home. Started fine. Heading down the first stretch of freeway. Everything seems fine. Exit and pull up to a car at the intersection.... My headlight and running lights are not as bright as they are suppossed to be.... Hrmmmm. Get to next stretch of freeway and go more miles and pull off to my favorite sports bar... Headlight and running lights even less bright. Oh $#!7....... But that didn't stop me from having my shot of jack d and some dos equis I'm close to home now.... Go to crank and it turns over twice real slow but doesn't start. I immeadiately know I've been running off my battery this 22 mile commute.... So I give 'er a little push then hit start again while popping the clutch. She's started. I get home.. By now my headlight is an amber color I'm totally as I have had engine problems and brake problems galore with this bike. Battery now on charger. And its taking charge well. Like a healthy battery should. So.... Anyone wanna lay odds on my charge system failure point before I start troubleshooting? Login or Register to Remove Ads Last edited by spldart; 11-25-2015 at 12:22 PM.
	0

11-25-2015, 04:10 PM	#3
spldart Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Stafford, Texas Posts: 604	Update: Stator puts out 25 volts ac at idle. I didn't bother revving my cold motor to 5k... I'm pretty positive that it would have easily hit 50 or 60 volts if I had. Besides... All coils ohm out where they are supposed to.... Wiring harness between rectifier/regulator also checks just fine. All quick disconnect connections are clean. However nothing seems to be coming out the RR assy bike running and revved. Therefore I'm ordering a new RR assy on amazon. Battery took a charge just fine and starts and runs the bike just fine even without a working charge system. I went ahead and disconnected my headlight to reduce the battery load by near 5 amps so as to allow me to run local errands operating just on battery juice. Finishing topping off the battery charge now. Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

11-25-2015, 09:19 PM	#5
blaine Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: P.E.I. Canada Posts: 3,784	A loose battery connection can cause regulator/rectifier failure & can also cause problems with ECU. (Electronic box). __________________ If at first you do succeed, try not to look surprised. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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11-25-2015, 01:05 PM	#2
spldart Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Stafford, Texas Posts: 604	Update: Stator ohms out normal. Bridge rectifier passes service manual passive test using diode check with dmm. I'm charging the battery in 15 minute spurts on and off cuz I only got a car charger and it's lowest setting tries to charge and 4 to 5 amps which is a bit much for this little MF battery.
	0

11-25-2015, 07:12 PM	#4
spldart Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Stafford, Texas Posts: 604	I have two possibilities: 1) I overheated the bike kinda bad thursday last week. Considering the position of the RR assy this could have caused a preme failure. 2) The positive terminal of the battery was loose but not rattle loose. Maybe less than adequate connection caused the RR assy failure? 3) I just don't know what caused it
	0

11-25-2015, 11:17 PM	#7
spldart Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Stafford, Texas Posts: 604	Added two car horns and a scosche relay. Ran a wire to the battery with a fuse within one inch to get juice for the horns. Wire kinda flattened out allowing the positive cable to move a little back and forth but not jiggle. I guess I'll blame it on my horn installation. But! Considering my big horns have saved my @$$ on several occasions I wont allow myself to be To those not looking and not signalling I sound like a truck.
	0

11-25-2015, 11:20 PM	#8
spldart Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Stafford, Texas Posts: 604	Stupid thanksgiving means it will take a week to get the part though
	0

11-27-2015, 06:33 PM	#9
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	Make sure both battery cables are clean and tight. A good idea is to put a star washer on the battery bolt before you tighten it down. This is a cure for some bikes that have a built-in vibration that messes with battery bolts. This could actually be your problem to begin with so do that and redo your tests to see if it helps. Fingers crossed.
	0

11-28-2015, 12:52 AM	#10
chandlerbingfl Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Florida Posts: 142	Seems to me that this should be an easy fix. If you can push start the bike than the "charging" system should be working. I had a problem one time where the bike would idle normally but when I tried to take off the bike would die. Turns out it was my battery. I guess it was because my battery was the "weak link" in the electrical system. Once I replaced the battery I had no further issues... My post probably won't help but might hbe food for thought.. Good luck! chandlerbingfl
	0