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08-08-2014, 06:25 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tennessee
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leaking carb, still wont start
one day my bike just stopped working. Rode it an hour prior and suddenly wouldnt start. Ive tried everything i can think of. clean the crap out of the carb. (very carefully, counting turns) i put the float in a cup of water with ice on top to hold it down. no bubbles, no water got in. i took the gas tank off because it was in rough shape on the inside. i used redkote but for some reason it started peeling, like a big red sack, not pieces. I connected the gas line from my gn125 to the carb (it has good gas in it for sure). i lost my key so i had to hotwire, i had the battery plugged up to my car, lights were on. i took the cables off the batter and used them on the starter, my starter button doesnt work but the starter does. it makes a constant puff puff puff out of the muffler but nothing more. at first the carb was leaking gas so i tightened the float bowl. it stopped leaking. still didnt work. then i realized that the kick stand was down. so i went back to try with it up but it was pouring gas from the carb again. I spent all day on this. i have run out of ideas.
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08-09-2014, 05:17 AM | #2 |
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Have you checked that the engine hasn't flooded and soaked the spark plug?
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08-09-2014, 10:39 AM | #3 |
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i checked the spark plug and it was pretty dirty. I cleaned it and checked inside, i didnt see anything in there. I bought a new plug hoping it would work. at the parts store the guy told me it could be my coil. so i got the new plug ( and some gasket stuff to fix the leak). I tried holding the plug next to the engine for spark. but nothing. so im guessing ( and kinda hoping) its my coil. only like 20 bucks online.
i just triple checked everything, tried starting it like the kickstand was up, clutch in, gas on , choke on. nothing. so, looks like im ordering a coil Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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08-09-2014, 11:53 AM | #4 |
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So long as it's in neutral, no need to lift the kickstand. It's only when you put it in gear that it cuts the engine. It's a safety device to stop you riding off with the stand down.
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08-11-2014, 09:51 AM | #5 |
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Ensure proper flow through the carb by disconnecting the line that feed into the float and see if it will pour gas when on PRI and also when you set it to RUN and turn the engine over.
(It will only pour out when the engine is turning over and creating vacuum) If those both work, then move from the carb and check for spark. If you aren't getting any spark, like you mentioned, then there is your answer... You can test the coil with a volt meter. It's either working or it's not. Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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08-13-2014, 04:02 PM | #6 |
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I ordered a new coil and tried it today (with a new spark plug) and still no spark
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08-13-2014, 04:27 PM | #7 |
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Location: Tennessee
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It looks like it's dripping out of the place the hose connects to the float but a pretty slow, steady drip
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08-13-2014, 05:51 PM | #8 |
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Use a volt meter and see if you're getting juice into the coil pack. Do the same with the flow out of the coil pack. I think there's just a safety relay somewhere that's gone bad.
Replace the hose and clamp tighter. It's possible that your float is stuck and it's not turning off fuel flow. |
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08-13-2014, 06:27 PM | #9 |
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looks like you may have two problems - fuel and electrical. I'll leave the fuel problem for others more knowledgeable than myself, but if the starter works but not the button, check the interlocks i.e. starter button, clutch switch, sidestand switch. These often go bad, and a good squirt of contact cleaner usually does the trick. Also check the starter relay, which is under the seat, behind the battery. If you can get the starter motor to turn over with the start button, then you can concentrate on the fuel problem.
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08-13-2014, 06:36 PM | #10 |
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Thanks guys! I think the gas leak might be a gasket issue, on of the screws holding my float bowl was stripped so I have vice grips holding that corner (she needs alot of love) I got some stuff that's supposed to create a new gasket, as for electrical Ive been looking around and I'm hoping the safety switches are the problem, us there any easy way to bypass them? And I guess it's time to invest in a volt meter, as for the contact Cleaner, would wd40 or carb Cleaned work?
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