Quote:
Originally Posted by wacio
In the diagram - float is #20 and float valve is #17. Float valve has needle attached to float (little tab that can be bent a little to adjust level). It is important to verify that the needle has rubber tip that is not worn out or damaged. The valve works similar to valve in toilet tank. Once fuel reached predetermined level it closes float valve. Fuel level is important and affects all circuits in the carburetor. Too low or too high will cause bike to run poor (too lean or flood). Looks like yours ids not closing when it should. Check:
- float condition (cracks) causing float to sink deeper than designed
- float valve needle and seat (wear or gunk)
- correct level adjustment (the tab on the float where needle attaches)
- oring around seat (top item #17) - needle might be closing but fuel leaking in around seat.
Level adjustment (picture kinda sucks but you may be able to decipher):
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/10...age=111#manual |
Okay that clears things up. I got the bike to run today again, but once again it stalled out. I kept the throttle way open but it only lasted about a minute before it stalled. After it stalled I tried to start it again but I think I drained the battery because it stopped cranking and kept making a clicking sound.
I figured there must be a deeper issue than the battery so I started to take apart the carburetor. I'm following the disassembly instructions in the service manual and carefully bagging the parts with labels. Looks like the last person that worked on the carburetor didn't take care of it because all the screws are stripped. I couldn't get most of the screws out because they're super stripped. I'm gonna buy some tools and order the rebuild kit for the carburetor tomorrow. Hopefully I can get the screws off with some needle nose pliers. Worst case scenario I'll have to drill them out.
Thanks for the advice. I'll have updates as soon as I get my tools and rebuild kit.