But still get the battery load tested. It's usually free, and it's one thing you can then cross off your list.
As for confusing testimony, we've been telling him all along that it's NOT the rectifier. The only confusing thing is why the mechanic did the wrong test, then told pimp that he needed an expensive repair!
I don't know if you've read the previous posts, but you'll see that I advised him to have the battery load tested first, then let us know. We've a hunch that it's a faulty battery, but no way of knowing, without a test. If the battery's faulty, then that was the problem. If it's ok, he can put it back on the bike, knowing that that's not the problem. Then we can lead him, step by step, through the next steps, such as making sure all the connections are tight, and getting his assurances at each step. That's the only logical way to go about fault finding for someone who's not up on electrics. The main thing we've been telling him over and over again is that the mechanic carried out a non valid test, and the faulty rectifier was the least likely of all the culprits. Given the nature of the original fault, he's got to be certain that the battery's good. I'd hate to have him THINK he's found the fault, then break down again, miles from home. I'm only advising the sequence of tests, in the order that I was taught to carry out in my job. I always carried a small load tester, so that I could first check the back up batteries on electronic panels, and it saved me hours of searching.
