Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
 

I'm looking forward to see what happens. :)


:)

Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
 

No luck, the 1.7watt 12volt bulb in the signal indicator didn't fix the problem.

I see what looks like aground wire to the left of the kick stand.

Then there is what looks like a ground wire behind the sprocket cover. Whatever it is, its a wire.

Might be a bad contact at these points I don't know. :??:

Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
 

Bwader !! Quit guessing and listen up. Have you checked the front and rear bulb sockets for rust or corrossion? Have you checked the bulbs with a meter? You can easily have a poor ground in those locations and it only costs you a little time. Do you have a simple test light. You can test the power points in the bulb sockets to see if they are getting power as designed. Eliminate the easy stuff first.

Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
 

On the GZ, if it's black/white it's a ground.

Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
 

Front bulb sockets are free of rust and corrosion. Voltage on those sockets is about the same ranging from 2-10 volts in both while engine is running.

I've pulled apart the connections in the headlight assembly and put them back together so those have good connections there at least.

A test light? No I have extra mini bulbs I could try between two connections.

I haven't checked the rear ones I'll do that.


I'm learning as I go here with testing stuff, I just know to make sure wires match up and connect.

I was looking for ground locations on the frame to loosen up, take rust off, and make the best connection. I know from looking off the repair pdf that there is a ground location on the engine on the rear part on top.

I just found one I didn't know about, its in the front of the engine on the right side and has a rubber boot cover over it.

Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
 

That's not good... Do you mean 2-10 volts while your meter is across them, or 2-10 volts during several tests? If it's while your meter is across them, the fluctuation could be due to your leads not making proper connections. If you mean that some tests give a constant 2v, while other tests give a constant 10v, that's a completely different kettle of fish, and we need to find out why it's happening.

Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
 

I mean it fluctuates from anywhere from 2-10volts when I tried to test the bulb sockets.Left and left signal and right and right signal.

Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
 

Ok so I took off the gas tank and was able to see more gang connectors and unhooked and rehooked them in looking in them.

I found a connection on the top frame with a gang connector. When its hooked together I have my problem but when I unhook it the turn signals flash front and back the way they should.

Except that that the headlight and signal lights aren't all on. Just signals work.

Reconnected everything works but my problem with the signals both flashing.

The rear signal lights make the rear brake light flash alternating with whichever signal is chosen.

Those rear bulbs were both 12volt 21watt bulbs. One on the right had "Lo" on it and the other one I can't remember but it was different.

When I test the grounds on the right and left side going to the rear under the seat it is not .1 omms.

Just to be clear, when I test the ground wires I should have it on omms 200 on the meter and pos to the ground wire and neg. to the frame. If its .1 then the ground is good right?

Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
 

Yes 0.1 ohm to ground is good enough.

Note, in this case, ground = 0VDC, it's tied to the negative pole of the battery.

It doesn't matter as long as there is no voltage difference. Then, don't measure ohms.

On the side, the 3.4W bulb should have a resistance of about 42 ohms.

And, with the signals off, when you measure the ohms at the contacts in the indicator housing (the rubber part under the dashboard) with the bulb out of it, it should be 6.85 ohms. Your multimeter's test current will then go through both front and rear 21W signal bulbs and via all (4) ground wires and the other two bulbs back to your other test probe. If it is significantly less (say less than 4 ohms), you have a short somewhere.
Again, measure this only with the signals OFF (and the bike should be off alltogether).

Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
 

If I remember correctly the bulbs should have only one contact on the bottom. Look at the bulbs and see if someone forced a bulb with two contacts into the socket or visa versa. You'll know how many contacts are required by looking in the socket.


:)