Re: At the mechanics shop
 

Ok guys, since my battery is at mechanics, still receiving the juice from the charger. I explained to him that i will take the battery to test it for a load. He said that is no problem, still he is convinced that is the regulator, i forgot what he told me, but he was saying something like if it would be faulty energy, the bike wouldn't start... So, i am no expert, i'll take the battery to check and will let you know. If the battery will be the issue, i have no plan to pay for the regulator.

1 more thing guys: is there a way to check for rectifiers consistency, a way to check if rectifier is faulty or not?

I will also clean all the connections, although as seen yesterday, they are clean, not shiny but not green also...

Also, where is the engine ground connection?

thank you for your help and enthusiasm, you rock guys!

Re: At the mechanics shop
 

[attachment=0:qdnentp9]img080.jpg[/attachment:qdnentp9]The only way to test a rectifier is to check the forward resistance of each plate, but I don't know what the resistance should be, and I don't think you're up to it. A rectifier is only (each plate) a gadget for allowing current to flow one way, and not in the reverse direction, so that the forward/reverse flow of alternating current is converted into the forward only flow of direct current.

Here's a simplified drawing of a little bridge rectifier that I made (using blocking diodes) so that I could fit a 12v dc buzzer to our 12v ac door entry system. If you follow the path, each way, from the ac to the dc, you'll see that in each case, current must flow from left to right across the dc terminals in each case. The diodes simply let the current flow in the forward direction, but not the reverse. You can see from this that if any diode went faulty, then we wouldn't get true dc across the dc terminals. That's why I said that your rectifier can't possibly be faulty, or the mechanic wouldn't have got dc at the battery terminals. there's really no need to test - you're either getting dc or not.

By the way........sounds like the mechanic's trying to baffle you with bullshit.

Re: At the mechanics shop
 

To break that down, if you can test the voltage across the battery while the bike is running, then the rectifier is fine. DC juice wouldn't be flowing to the battery unless it was doing it's job.

Re: At the mechanics shop
 

[attachment=0:2wrf7ihu]Picture 169.jpg[/attachment:2wrf7ihu]Forgot to tell you....... Let the mechanic talk to me. I'm fluent in Bullshit. :yes: I've got the award to prove it. :crackup

Re: At the mechanics shop
 

LOL

Re: At the mechanics shop
 

Where is the ground connection?

Re: At the mechanics shop
 

Follow the fat wire away from the negative terminal on the battery. I don't remember exactly.
According to the wiring schematic, it's relatively close to the battery.

Section 7.8 of the service manual:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=27

Re: At the mechanics shop
 

Thank you! The connectors for battery are shining, tommorow I'll check the grounding. Service manual is good and informative!

Re: At the mechanics shop
 

Hello guys!

I got my gz back with new rectifier. Measurements were made (only with volt meter; rectifier, battery, stator or how it is called and all was in the right parameters). Since i got my gz back, i rode aprox. 250 km in two days. Do you think that this kilometrage or mileage is enough to bring out possible gremlins that may be are still hiding inside or are they spooked and gone to another place?

Bike is going well, i even think it goes better and smoother; i achieved new highest speed (just for seconds), also in a small downhill, it was 125km/h, that's about 78 mph. Also PimpSerS were more eager on flat terain (easily and faster to 100 kmph and uphill, usually i went to this hill, with the lowest speed 78 kmph (many times i changed from 5th to 4th), yesterday, after 2 hour ride it went lowest 85 kmph, in fifth all the time, on the top i went easily to 100 kmph.
One thing i noticed, that after 360km made since the chain and sprocket change, the chain got more slack (now it's about inch).
I hope i will be able to do it myself.
any recomendation, i believe i have to have torque wrench, or you guys do it by the feeling?

You've been all helpful a lot and take care and drive safe!

PimpS

ps:gone to the concert i have with my band El Kachon... Rn'r!!!

Re: At the mechanics shop
 

Did you have your battery PROPERLY tested? - you never told us - I still say that the rectifier COULD NOT POSSIBLY be the fault. All I can say is that the original fault (possibly short circuit etc) must have cleared up. YOU'VE WASTED YOUR MONEY. I can't put it much plainer than that. Not much good us giving you the benefit of our experience if you're going to totally ignore us. Still, it's your money you're wasting! :sad: :tdown: