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Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
I checked the bulb 12V 21/5
I tried starting with kick stand down and it starts up. So I'm thinking that shouldn't happen its supposed to be up to be able to start. I had it in neutral and pulled in clutch |
Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
No, you're supposed to be able to start with the stand down. The safety switch cuts the engine if you put it in gear with the stand down. This is so that you can't ride off with the stand down. :)
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Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
ok that's good to know. Wires went from the turn signal lights to the headlight casing. So I guess the rest is inside there. Its been raining and didn't have much dry time outside to really do anything but check the bulbs and put them back in.
I checked all the fuses in the fuse box and the 20amp one on the right near the battery was good. |
Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
There is a way with one of those pokey electrical testers to test resistance to see if your ground is working. Alan will have to detail that or just read the instructions on your volt meter. But it's fairly easy from what I recall, I just couldn't tell you how to set it up or what to look for without doing it again. If the ground isn't solid, the polarity will let you know.
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Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
I have a volt tester, somewhere it talked about testing the side/stand relay A through H or something put 12volts to 2 places then test two other places. Yeah whatever.....
This is keeping me from getting an inspection sticker! it would be different if I was just being anal about wanting it to look right. It works fine to me but to that inspector they both blink and its not hazard lights on. I don't think this bike has a hazard button. Its raining today still so I wouldn't be riding tonight to work anyway. |
Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
[attachment=0:rvbti8kl]img002.jpg[/attachment:rvbti8kl]They say a picture's worth a thousand words, so I've done a little sketch. With the meter set to ohms (say, the 200 ohm scale) you should get a reading of just above zero( i.e. no resistance to earth.) I say "just above" zero, because the meter will read the residual resistance of the meter & leads.
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Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
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Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
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a) both of your turn lights blink b) your turn signal indicator bulb doesn't work Conclusion: there is a short at your turn signal indicator! Because, if the turn signal indicator would be just "out" (dead) there is no current going through it, so then the 'other' signal indicator would not blink at all. But, since it is shorting, both turn signal lights blink. To remove: work the turn signal indicator assembly up, through the round hole, until you can work the lens out of the black rubber. The, pull the rubber down through the hole. Roll the rubber back to get to the bulb. The short could be "internal" to the bulb, or at the bottom of the bulb, or at the wires outside the assembly (small chance), so just pull the bulb and see what happens. |
Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
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Re: Rejected inspection: front turn signals
:2tup: So far I took the bulb out it seems to work normal now. Ill see in the morning with a new bulb I'll pick up at advance auto in the morning.
Damn, I might have been able to pass inspection just pulling out the bulb. Though I'm not holding my breath either, its dark out and only with the motorcycle lights on it seems to have been the problem! Wow this was really simple to do. Only thing though the place I got inspected, Tread Quarters has only one inspector and he said in advance he was not going to be there Wednesday, sucks its Wednesday now after midnight. Ahh be patient and wait til Thursday and spend 1$ or spend another $12 at a different inspection station. I'll wait another day, it will be my luck it will rain Friday when I return to work. Thanks everyone for your inputs and help. I'll try the new bulb and I'll post here the results and go from there. |
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