Re: Charging problem
 

It was charged with a battery tender to 12.58V on Tuesday morning if I remember correctly, measured with a multimeter, no voltage change within 1/2 hour. I started it twice after it get charged to do some tests. Before the load test I measured it myself(12.56-12.57V). In the load test it was 12.4V as the report said. I did not check it again after that.

Current leak check steps was following the service manual, checked the current between the battery terminal and its connection wire, it was showed 0mA.

I might buy a waterproof tender to help me go through this period before I fix the problem.

"But, there is another thing that can lead to a dead battery when you are done riding and park the bike -- to accidentally turn the key instead of to OFF, to PARK (all the way over to the left)"

The owners manual I downloaded from this site does not contain the pages about key switch...(page 14). Sometimes what I did when parking:

Turn the electric starter button off, then turn the front tire to left and park. Get off the bike, try to get the key swith from ON to PARK (using whatever way) then get the key out. Do you think this might be the problem? Parking light, do you mean the light in the rear? Break light?

Re: Charging problem
 

If you are not careful,and turn the key all the way back to "park" the rear park light will stay on and kill the battery.The park light is hard to see in the daytime.Make your key goes no farther than the "lock" position.This is one feature I never used,because of that reason,plus the lock can be a real PITA.
:) :cool:

Re: Charging problem
 

That is your problem, you are turning the key one notch too far to the left when you leave the bike and you are leaving the rear lights on, killing the battery.
Look carefully at the rear lights (you may have to shield the ambient light to see if they are on in the daylight) when you turn your key off they way you are doing it, then try and stop the key only one position to the left to the OFF or LOCK position, and again look at the lights. PARK is only if you are stopped on the side of the road at night and you want the bike visible so no one plows into you. It serves no other purpose and you must avoid doing that accidentally.
There is most likely nothing wrong with your battery unless repeated heavily draining it had damaged it, nothing wrong with your charging system, this is known as operator error and is not an unusual mistake for new owners or even oldtimers not paying attention.

Re: Charging problem
 

Interesting, I will check it tonight. I'm not sure where I turned the key to, LOCK or PARK. I haven't noticed the difference before, they seems to be pretty close. I just try to turn the key all the way to the left every time.

Re: Charging problem
 

You've just answered your own problem!!!!!!!!! That's the "park with rear light lit" position!!!!!!!!!!! :yes:

Re: Charging problem
 

Many, if not most, bikes now have this same thing, so be aware if you ever get another bike. Check out the key switch so you don't do this again and get a big surprise the next morning when your battery is dead and you try and look for all kinds of obscure reasons why this happened.

Re: Charging problem
 

My old 1990 Kawasaki has it.I was quite surprised to see it on a bike this old.But it also has self canceling turn signals.
:) :cool:

Re: Charging problem
 

My GT 750 was a 78 and had the park position in the ignition switch. As a rule of thumb I always visually check all my lights before and after the day's riding. Sounds like overkill and a little anal but it works for me. One must be sure to have all lights working or you may be the looser in the long run. We are already harder to see than a cage so keep yourself visible in all situations.

Re: Charging problem
 

Cool, thanks, I will pay attention to it and see what's happening in next few weeks.

Re: Charging problem
 

BTW, the European bikes also have a small bulb in the headlight, so if you leave the lights on, the battery runs down twice as quickly. :cry: