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View Full Version : Oil Change difference after 300 miles


Tonckawa
06-12-2008, 11:51 PM
I changed my oil after only 300 miles and you can see from the picture below the difference. I will be changing it again at 600 miles and again at 1000 and THEN I will start using Synthetic Gastrol GTX 10W-40.


http://www.postimage.org/gxdwT3i.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxdwT3i)

Easy Rider
06-13-2008, 09:53 AM
I changed my oil after only 300 miles and you can see from the picture below the difference. I will be changing it again at 600 miles and again at 1000 and THEN I will start using Synthetic Gastrol GTX 10W-40.


[I shouldn't have to preface this but, apparently, some people on here are overly sensitive......]

I am not trying to critisize anything you said. This is just a calm and friendly question.

What "difference" are we supposed to notice from the picture? One filter has oil on it and the other doesn't.

I think your oil change plan is just fine. Piece of mind is.......priceless.

CMS
06-13-2008, 12:24 PM
I did the first change at 100 miles the next at 300 milles and the last at the 600 mile mark also valves. I'm going to put a few more miles on beore I switch to synthetic oil. Just my thoughts, it may or may not hurt a thing but I'm going to wait a little longer before switching. CMS :tup:

jonathan180iq
06-13-2008, 12:56 PM
I've read about concerns about seals not seating properly due to using synthetic oil before the break-in period is over. Just to be safe, I always wait until 1000 miles or so before going to synthetic. I don't know if these fears are even substantiated, but you can never be too safe.

Tonckawa
06-13-2008, 02:11 PM
I changed my oil after only 300 miles and you can see from the picture below the difference. I will be changing it again at 600 miles and again at 1000 and THEN I will start using Synthetic Gastrol GTX 10W-40.


[I shouldn't have to preface this but, apparently, some people on here are overly sensitive......]

I am not trying to critisize anything you said. This is just a calm and friendly question.

What "difference" are we supposed to notice from the picture? One filter has oil on it and the other doesn't.

I think your oil change plan is just fine. Piece of mind is.......priceless.

If you look close enough at the used filter, you will see metal shavings and I am not a hard driver or a haul-ass rider. I drive nice and easy. This picture tells me to change oil more often when breaking in. The oil in the pan looked darker to me than I would have expected from only 300 miles of easy-going driving.

Easy Rider
06-13-2008, 02:26 PM
If you look close enough at the used filter, you will see metal shavings........... The oil in the pan looked darker to me than I would have expected from only 300 miles of easy-going driving.

I'll take your word for it. Need to be a LOT closer with the picture to be able to pick out the shavings, for me anyway.

Color is really not a good yardstick for oil "wear". Some good oils will start to darken after only a few hot/cold cycles and others take a thousand miles or so before they darken noticeably.

Badbob
06-13-2008, 08:36 PM
The oil is supposed to get dark.

If you do a little research I think you will find a few metal shavings on the filter of a new engine is not unusual.

5th_bike
06-13-2008, 09:55 PM
When I got my bike it was two years old and had 35 miles on it.
So after driving it home, I changed oil and filter at 58 miles, and there were metal shavings in the filter.
I changed oil and filter again at 1100 miles, and the filter had no visible metal shavings in it.
So the metal shavings seem to be just something from the very first miles that the bike makes.
I will change oil again at 3000 miles.

jonathan180iq
06-14-2008, 03:02 PM
...or the shavings may be left over from the milling process and the first few miles of riding flushes them through the system and they get caught in the filter, which is where they should be.

hippybilly
06-17-2008, 10:42 PM
You can look in oil pans, filters, rear ends, front ends, manual trannys and transfer cases on most new rides with any number of wheels on them and there will be shavings in all of them. It's from the milling process and things being new. I use to put magnets on steel oil pans and sich to help keep them at the bottom. Nothing to worry about. It's just a matter of changing fluids and filters and they'll go away. If they come back thousands of miles down the road, that's when it's time to worry. If oil didn't turn dark it wouldn't be doing it's job. :rawk:

Orpheus
06-18-2008, 03:13 AM
Speaking of oil changes, I just got a bunch of filters from bikebandit.com for like $2 each (plus s&h). Much cheaper than others I've found.

hippybilly
06-18-2008, 03:42 AM
Are them filters any count? Are they a good brand or cheapies? I wouldn't mind stocking up if they were good stuff. I have to learn this bike stuff. I'm hung up in the 60s-70s SB Chevy mode too much. I always ran Wix filters, but I be they don't make Suzuki filters huh? Thanks for sharing the filter thing. I'll go check it out. I just go the bike and it's got 3,000 miles on it and I was gona change the oil. Go to synthetic and synthetic everything I can on it. I got to read the manuals and see what all kinda juices go where in this thing. I wonder if it's got synthetic brake fluid already in them or not?

Anybody tell me where to get the best deal on full face helmets? After reading things on the forum today I've decided that I'm gona go that route. I learned so much my first day today that I'm just tickle to death I found this place and all you guys that are on it. Here's to you all :2tup: :2tup: :2tup:

Badbob
06-18-2008, 07:44 AM
After paying $15 for an oil filter at a bike shop I went shopping for filters on line and bought one of every brad I could find. All of them except one were identical except for the packaging. The most expansive and the cheapest were the same filter right down to the markings. The one that was different had pink filter paper.

This is not a scientific study but it satisfied me. I buy the cheapest one available. I would have bought a pile of them at $2 each.

jonathan180iq
06-18-2008, 09:47 AM
Are them filters any count? Are they a good brand or cheapies? I wouldn't mind stocking up if they were good stuff. I have to learn this bike stuff. I'm hung up in the 60s-70s SB Chevy mode too much. I always ran Wix filters, but I be they don't make Suzuki filters huh? Thanks for sharing the filter thing. I'll go check it out. I just go the bike and it's got 3,000 miles on it and I was gona change the oil. Go to synthetic and synthetic everything I can on it. I got to read the manuals and see what all kinda juices go where in this thing. I wonder if it's got synthetic brake fluid already in them or not?

Anybody tell me where to get the best deal on full face helmets? After reading things on the forum today I've decided that I'm gona go that route. I learned so much my first day today that I'm just tickle to death I found this place and all you guys that are on it. Here's to you all :2tup: :2tup: :2tup:

In this section, General Maintenance, the first post is a download of the service manual. I have a real physical paper copy and I would recommend it but the online version allows you the ability to print off only the pages that need. It's nice.

The oil juices that we have are crankcase juices and brake fluid. As far as oil goes, make sure you don't use anything that is "energy conserving". I haven't changed my brake fluid yet. No comments on that one.

Easy Rider
06-18-2008, 10:12 AM
I haven't changed my brake fluid yet. No comments on that one.

When it comes to brake fluid, it is ***NOT*** a good idea to try and change "types". Stick with what was in there to start with. If you mix traces of the old fluid with the wrong kind of new fluid, you get a paste, something like glue. That is a VERY costly mistake. :cry:

hippybilly
06-18-2008, 10:13 AM
Bob, your oil filter study seems good enough for me. I think I'll stock up too. Oil filters are probably like my cousin that owned an automotive machine shop use to tell me when I asked which rod and main bearings (brand) were the best.......he said there ain't but 3 or 4 companys that build bearings (back then) and they manufacture them for all kinds of companys just with different names on the package. There are probably are only so many company's that build oil filters and the rest is just packaging.

I'll probably go ahead and print out the manual also. My eyes get to hurting after so many hours of staring at my cheap monitor. I like the paper thing and since I'll probably keep this bike for many moons to come, I'll put the pages in document protectors and 3 ring binder it so I can take it to the shop building and get finger prints all over it while I'm working on things. Hippybilly :rawk:

Orpheus
06-18-2008, 10:19 AM
Here's the filters I bought: http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-p ... 65+1177770 (http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts-list?d=1170244+1176461+1177565+1177770)

I actually followed a link that someone here provided to find them, but I'm pretty sure you aren't going to find them cheaper unless you buy in bulk. They're $2.06 each and it cost me about $6 s&h. I was changing the filter every other oil change, but now that I've found them for this cheap, I guess I'll change the filter with the oil every time. This thread reminds me that I need to change my brake fluid and fork oil, too. Anybody have any experience changing fork oil or should I just have a shop do it for me?

Tonckawa
07-01-2008, 11:04 PM
Here's the filters I bought: http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-p ... 65+1177770 (http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts-list?d=1170244+1176461+1177565+1177770)

I actually followed a link that someone here provided to find them, but I'm pretty sure you aren't going to find them cheaper unless you buy in bulk. They're $2.06 each and it cost me about $6 s&h. I was changing the filter every other oil change, but now that I've found them for this cheap, I guess I'll change the filter with the oil every time. This thread reminds me that I need to change my brake fluid and fork oil, too. Anybody have any experience changing fork oil or should I just have a shop do it for me?

The OEM part number for the filter at the link you provided is the exact one that was given to me when I bought them at the Suzuki dealer. I just change my oil again at the 600 mile mark and I saw no metal shavings. At 1,000 mile, I am going to Gastrol Synthetic and order the filters in bulk (4 or 5) from your link. :rawk: