was idleing and died

[Jeffro304]

hey guys im haivng some elctrical issues, started my bike earlier to warm up, she idled for about 10minutes then died,
i went to try and start her backup and realized i had no electrical. no neutral light no headlights nothing, first thing i cheked was the solenoid fuse since its the first visible one, it was blown, so i changed it, thinking i had licked the issue at hand, but it didnt, checked the following 4 or 6 fuses in the fuse box attached to the solenoid they are all good.

now my question is, where do i check form here?

[Jeffro304]

update, the solenoid keeps blowing fuses, havent found any pinched or grounded out wires that i havent isolated to keep from sending power to them, ie tail lights and signal markers.

[Jeffro304]

update: found a spot in the wiring harness that had been riding the chain and skinned down a couple wires, fix those wires, plug solenoid back up, and still no solenoid clik or anything, the one thing i notice now, is that when the key is off the neutral light is on, im at witts end with this thing already, 12v electrical has never been my strong point and aggrevates the crap out of me. if anyone has a GOOD and CLEAR wiring diagram for the 99 gz250 id greatly appreciate it

[blaine]

update: found a spot in the wiring harness that had been riding the chain and skinned down a couple wires, fix those wires, plug solenoid back up, and still no solenoid clik or anything, the one thing i notice now, is that when the key is off the neutral light is on, im at witts end with this thing already, 12v electrical has never been my strong point and aggrevates the crap out of me. if anyone has a GOOD and CLEAR wiring diagram for the 99 gz250 id greatly appreciate it
Dont have a diaghram ...But sounds like you have a short & blown fuses.

[derbydave]

See Attached

[Jeffro304]

See Attached
by chance does anyone have this in english?

[Jeffro304]

im still chasing wiring gremlins :\

[derbydave]

I tried replacing my stock ignition switch with an aftermarket when I first got my bike due to not having the key. The aftermarket switch would blow the 20 amp main fuse every time I went to turn it on. I ended up having a key made for the stock switch. I would start by taking the headlight out of the bucket and check for any chafed wires since that is the junction point for a lot of connections.

[Jeffro304]

I would start by taking the headlight out of the bucket and check for any chafed wires since that is the junction point for a lot of connections.

that is the only place i havent checked wires as of yet.
i just spent the last 2hours tracing every wire in the harness i could get to that didnt have factory wrap on it, and putting shrink wrap and crinkle wire cover stuff in all places it has a chnace to rub.
But im still blowing fuses, it doesnt blow until i plug the small ground lead coming off the -battery wire into the coresponding female plug on the wire harness, but i trace that wire and there is no breaks or anything in it. the hting thats chapping my ass is the damn thing ran fine until the day i made this post, never failed to fire right up and put around the driveway in 15degree weather..
And up until that point the neutral light stays on and i cant even get it to crank. im at witts end almost, and itll be a cold day in hell before i take it to a shop. and the weather is finally starting to break here in southern WV.

[derbydave]

by chance does anyone have this in english?

Here is an English one. It's hard to read though

[derbydave]

Check the side stand switch and the side stand relay. I was looking over the wiring diagram and those two look like they could be suspect. I would pull the side stand relay and disconnect the side stand switch and see if you still blow a fuse when you connect the ground back up.

[derbydave]

You might also use a meter on the disconnected ground wire and test for voltage being shorted to ground. One probe on the ground wire and the other on the battery negative terminal. There should be no voltage present.

[Jeffro304]

i jsut wired a 20relay up as teh 20a fuse on the solenoid, so i didnt have to keep changing fuses everytime i tsted something, and the only thing that plugs in that blows the fuse is the R\R. leave it unpugged and everything is as it should be, bike cranks, no neutral light on without key etc etc.. so i jsut orderd a new RR form the local suzuki shop, ebay had it for 12$ but i got the top of the line RR from the shop for 80$ opposed to the 130$ tag they had on it, so in 2 days hopefully i will be back up and running hwen it gets here

[Jeffro304]

sidenote from yesterday. you can easily test the R/R by setting your multimter to diode -<|~ the icon sorta looks like this "<|~" test by sticking the RED lead off the meter to the NEGATIVE female slot on the R/R, then probe each connecting pion with the negative lead. then flip and repeat *as in flip i mean put the negative probe lead off the meter into the positive female slot on the R/R. your values should all be about the same, i.e .507, .499 ,500 would all be good acceptable readings,aslong as it isnt to far from eachother, liek i would imagine if 2 connectors read .501 and the 3rd reads .800 there is a issue in the R/R. but its when it reads zero that you know for sure its toast,

anywho hope this helps someone else stuck and at witts end liek i was, thanks for your attentive and quick responses derbydave ::tup::