View Full Version : Oil on Cylinder ,?
leonj2932
06-15-2017, 01:54 AM
Hey guys I'm about confused as to why there's baked on oil on the cylinder where the fins are , I tried removing it with engine degreaser but it's really baked on . I hope this isn't due to an engine issue :hmm:u
I attached a picture for if anyone has any ideas to what may be going on or how that oil got there .
spldart
06-15-2017, 02:54 AM
Could be the valve adjust covers. Could be the head gasket.
I've fought with this problem too.
leonj2932
06-15-2017, 01:17 PM
How do you fix the problem though ? Or is it something that isnt a huge priority ??
alantf
06-16-2017, 05:54 AM
With the GZ, the head bolts seem to come loose over time. You could try tightening them first. Also check the bolts holding the exhaust, and the valve adjuster cover. Caveat - Make sure you don't shear them.
Pmhearns
06-16-2017, 10:34 AM
Remove the side covers and look with a flash light if you have oil gathering in the pocket where both the spark plug is and the left front head stud are. If there is pooling there, youre likely leaking oil from the washer/gasket of the nut. DONT JUST TIGHTEN THE NUT! The BEST thing to do is now check for oil around the head gasket, if its clear... order the oem washers and gaskets for the head studs, And some quality grey gasket maker. Remove the valve cover, set it aside. Loosen(no need to remove completlly unless you are changing head gasket) the bottom nuts on the guide studs on the under side of the head, Now, remove each nut and the washer one at a time and MAKE NOTE of whether its a washer or a gasket. Then replace the used washer with the correct new one. I believe the gaskets (copper washer) go to the 2 studs inside the valve cover but not 100% sure.. i applied a small amount of low strength locktite to the inside of the nut... now finger snug 1 by 1 in cross pattern. The using a torque wrench, i tighten to roughly 20% of oem torque spec then cross to next stud and repeat in cross pattern until reached 100%. Then retorque the guide nuts... CLEAN ALL OLD GASKET RESIDUE FROM HEAD AND COVER. . I use methonal for this but alocol will work woth a fine grit scotch brite pad. Very fine bead of new gaset on cover and replace. Torqing bolts in same manner as head studs. It seems like a lot of work but abkut an hour and you will leak free for a long time
Also, it helps to replace those crappy stock header bolts with ss set screws... i think i used 30mm and they are 6x1.0 mm threads. I threaded them until they bottom out and back oit 1 full turn, then used lock nut to tighten them down that way you arent tightening up on the threads in the head..
If you DO have oil on the underside of the head, replace headgasket and repeat sll steps. And dont forget to mind the timing chain.... use a hammer to hold it up after you move the cam becsue if it drops, youre gonna have a bad time... also, buy new header gaskets.....
Phew...
leonj2932
06-19-2017, 01:10 AM
:cheers:
wow that sounds like a lot of things to do , ugh this bike has been nothin but problems so far .
Water Warrior 2
06-19-2017, 07:30 AM
:cheers:
wow that sounds like a lot of things to do , ugh this bike has been nothin but problems so far .
Just wait till you have all the problems fixed.
Pmhearns
06-19-2017, 10:17 AM
Its not so bad, make sure you gather the proper tools prior to the work. Take your time and have some patients... it just looks like a lot with how i described it, but its only like 2 hours of work if you take your time. One thing i woukd advise is have a desginated place for the bolts you remove.. zip lock bags work well if the bolts are the same... if they differnt... make a template( cardboad and sharpie work very well for this). Mark the orientation of the bike on the bosrd and then draw a rough outline of whatever you are disaaaembling. Then, one bolt at a time, press into carb board so you kno which bolt goes where.
Take youre time and be patient, i have to tell my 17 year old this dtuff all the time becsuse he tries to blast through these tasks and gets nervous and then makes mistakes and cross threads holes and looses things.. nuts, bolts tools....
RJsfishin
06-20-2017, 10:41 AM
How do you fix the problem though ? Or is it something that isnt a huge priority ??
First of all, is it a problem ??
You said its old baked on oil, that's probably been there forever,...possibly leftover from a prior leak ?
You never said anything about it leaking oil,....like running down the cyl and onto the floor.
My advice, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Summed up, from what you described, you don't have a problem.
leonj2932
07-10-2017, 11:21 PM
no sorry , its definetely something, when i bought the bike there was no oil, 1000 miles later and im just a mess with this bike still.
wickedp34
09-26-2017, 02:28 PM
I'm dealing with the same issue. Baked on and burnt oil on the cooling fins. When it heats up, it drips onto the fins and causes smoke. I finally wanted to investigate where exactly it was coming from. I used degreaser and eblow grease and got rid of what was already there. I took the header side cover off and started up the bike. I let it heat up and watched really closely. Finally figured out it is coming from a cap above where the exhaust connects to the header. I looked in the manual and it is labeled as an inspection cap. I'm gathering there is probably a seal behind it that is not doing its job. It could also be the bolts aren't tight enough. Before I attempt to do anything with it, I'd like some input. If I remove that cap to inspect the gasket, will there be a good deal of oil coming out of it? Also, when I replace the cap and tighten the bolts, do those particular bolts need a torsion wrench? Thanks in advance!
5th_bike
09-29-2017, 09:24 PM
Looking at the picture, it could have been something (clothing, glove) that melted and left some on the fins. Can't really see on top of the fins though.
PS Wickedp34, no problem, open valve cover, replace gasket. No oil will come out (provided engine is off....). Yes, torsion is in the manual that you can download from somewhere here.
Maggie
10-16-2017, 03:09 AM
Hi! Yep, those inspection caps are for the valve inspection/adjustment, so you will see some oil, but it shouldn't come dripping out. I just opened mine for a valve inspection and noticed oil had been leaking onto the fins from the front cap. So, I ran down to my Suzuki dealer and was able to purchase two replacement o-rings for $6.00. I think the oil issue is mostly resolved, although I must say this is a continuing issue for this bike to get oil on the left side.
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