View Full Version : Cleaned Carb wont run correctly.
dodie
03-05-2017, 08:33 PM
I cleaned the carb, it wasnt bad pretty clean. Installed a new k&n air filter also drilled the plug out on the pilot screw. The bike will start. The bike will run at a higher rpm although it will stall after a short time. Like it burns all the fuel in the bowl then stalls. I also can set the idle at a higher rpm it will run until I adjust the screw to a normal idling rpm then it will stall. I tried running the bike on prime thinking maybe it wast filling the bowl fast enough but it did the same thing (stall after a few minutes). Tomorrow Im gonna take the pet cock off and see if its clogged up. How many turns should I set the pilot screw at. The screw under the plug I drilled out. I dont see any vacuum leaks on the 2 rubber hoses the rubber looks good. It ran ok but not great when we put it away for winter. It used to surge aka to lean. I was trying to richen it up but putting a new high flow air filter on I may of made it even leaner. Any suggestions?
blaine
03-05-2017, 08:39 PM
With the free flowing filter you may need to go to a larger Main jet.Pull your plug & see if still lean....2 1/2 turns out is a good starting point for pilot screw....Out is richer....In leaner.
dodie
03-08-2017, 07:27 PM
I looked at the spark plug it was black, way to rich. which makes no sense to me. I cleaned the carb put on a new choke spring, also put on a new left switch/choke assembly on the handlebar, put on a new k&n high flow air filter if anything it should be lean. If I cant figure a single carb engine its gonna suck doing a 4 carb system.I put my finger on the vaccuum line to the petcock it sucks hard leaves a ring on my finger. No vacuum leaks.The bike runs. If I make an idle speed adjustment it takes about a minute for it to make any difference in engine rpm then it will stall. The pilot screw seems to make no audible difference in engine sound or rpm. I can spray some starting fluid around the intake boot and air box boot .It makes no change in engine rpm so I know its a sealed system.Any help?
blaine
03-08-2017, 07:55 PM
Has me wondering if your new choke assembly is operating properly & not sticking on.??
dodie
03-08-2017, 08:15 PM
Has me wondering if your new choke assembly is operating properly & not sticking on.??
I really dont like the choke system on these GZ carbs. I prefer a butterfly valve type. This is my wifes bike she is upgrading to an S40 soon.
blaine
03-08-2017, 09:56 PM
I really dont like the choke system on these GZ carbs. I prefer a butterfly valve type. This is my wifes bike she is upgrading to an S40 soon.
A lot of bikes have this type...which is actually a "Enricher" more so than a choke..Just uncovers another jet that lets more fuel into the carb.
wacio
03-08-2017, 10:55 PM
Very important first step if you suddenly run reach is to check:
- if the float valve is working
- oring around that valve not leaking
- floats not cracked
- fuel level set correctly
Any failure of the any item above will cause flooding and running rich.
dodie
03-09-2017, 01:32 PM
I can put it on prime and it doesnt overflow the carb. I used to have a concours and they are bad about hydrolock.
dodie
03-19-2017, 06:55 PM
Is it possible to be rich at idle and lean at higher rpm? It idles pretty good I set the float. It idles pretty good now but bogs when in gear and under a load at mid to higher rpm.
dodie
03-19-2017, 08:38 PM
Well my bad I had put the main jet in the idle circuit and the idle jet in the main jet. Its now behaving normal but bogging at mid rpm, Probly need a bigger main jet.
Water Warrior 2
03-20-2017, 01:19 AM
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