Lost electrical power

[zmanmx5]

Before I start to rip the bike apart, wondering if anyone has had this issue. Riding down the road, and the bike just went quiet. No electrical - bike just shut off. Coasted to the side of the road and had absolutely no electrical anything. Bike is a 2009 with less than 1,000 miles. First place to look is???? (Had to get the bike towed home.)
Thanks

[wacio]

Check the voltage on the battery. If necessary - charge. If dead replace. If battery charged - check if running bike provides 13+ volts to the battery. You may have problem with stator or rectifier. If charging OK or not able to even start - check main fuses 30A around starter relay. Than if all fuses look OK (including ones under seat) you will have to diagnose with meter to see at what point you lose connection.

[zmanmx5]

Update and new question.

Checked various things and the fuses. Found one of the two 20 amp fuses blown. It might be one of the two main fuses but do not really know. Did check the voltage on the battery and was fine, around 12 - 13 volts -- my voltage meter is an old analog unit.

Now the question: What would cause the fuse to blow when I was just riding it during the day, should not have had too much load on the electrical system. The battery is new, had to replace it about a month or two ago. Thought it was the correct model and size for the GZ250 (or so the vendor -- Battery Mart -- said)

(last reply said main fuses are 30 amp, but mine are both 20 amp.)

[blaine]

Update and new question.

Checked various things and the fuses. Found one of the two 20 amp fuses blown. It might be one of the two main fuses but do not really know. Did check the voltage on the battery and was fine, around 12 - 13 volts -- my voltage meter is an old analog unit.

Now the question: What would cause the fuse to blow when I was just riding it during the day, should not have had too much load on the electrical system. The battery is new, had to replace it about a month or two ago. Thought it was the correct model and size for the GZ250 (or so the vendor -- Battery Mart -- said)

(last reply said main fuses are 30 amp, but mine are both 20 amp.)
If there are 20's in were there should be 30's they will blow because they are not heavy enough for the load. :)

[wacio]

I apologize for misleading you (memory apparently failing). I checked the main fuse in my GZ and it indeed is 20A. It appears that only one is used and the other is spare. I would replace it and investigate further if it blows again.

http://www.gz250bike.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=57&pictureid=331

[zmanmx5]

Thanks everyone. Once I replace the fuse, i intend to take it to the dealer to get checked out. Do not want to repeat the incident. Good to know the other fuse is a spare, did not know that.

[zmanmx5]

This happened again. After riding for a while the main fuse blows. No that I know what it is, I do a side of the road repair. Replace the fuse, and I ride the bike home. I have gone through the bike and cannot find any wire with frayed insulation, nothing pinching that I can see, while parked, with the bike running, I have pulled on all wires that I can see, and nothing. I cannot replicate this. I am afraid to ride, because it just cuts out in traffic.

Any ideas? Does anyone else have this issue? If so, what did you do to fix it? I was going to bring it to a dealer, but it will have to be towed and I really do not want to pay for shop time for them to tell me there is nothing wrong.

Thanks

[Francisco Zapata]

Hey, my friend! I had the exactly same issue about few years ago. In my case, that happened because I left my bike exposed to the rain for few days; and it looked like some connections were wet on my back turn signals.
The solved it just isolating those wires and leaving my bike drying on few summer sunny days in Arizona.

I hope this helps you.

[5th_bike]

And when I just had the bike, it had the wire insulation of one of the wires to the lights melted off at the engine head underneath the tank, with contact (short circuit) every now and then, that cost me a couple fuses before I had that figured out.

[Roadking]

Hey
This thread is old but I'm bored so thot I'd add my 2 cents. Replace the fuse again leave battery side cover off. Start the engine and then put a Volt meter across the battery terminals. Should not read more than 13.8v DC. I'll bet you will get over 15v and that is a bad regulator/rectifier. They are known to go bad, and that will cause your circuit to build up heat and eventually blow the fuse.

[Axeman88]

Reviving an old thread to share what I can regarding blowing the 20A main fuse while cruising.

I experienced this happening 4 times on a recent LONG ride (370 miles each way). The fuse blew once at about 320 miles on the way out, then 3 more times on the return journey. I had previously ridden this machine for short trips locally about 1500 miles over the last year without ever experiencing the issue. Also, pertinent to one suggestion, I monitored charging voltage on the bike previously, while riding and idling, and it was consistently below 14.2 volts at all times. I will check charging voltage again, soon to make sure this hasn't changed.

My suspicion is that this is most likely a vibration related issue, (or perhaps heat) and is likely due to insulation on the RED wire that goes from the Main fuse to the ignition switch, being compromised at some point, and that wire shorting to ground at that damaged point. Because I had heavily loaded the plastic tool tray under the seat for my trip, this area is my initial suspect.

I'll report back if I get more info on what caused the main fuse to blow 4 times in 700 miles.

[Vegas Street Rider]

Look forward to hearing what you found regarding your issue. It does sound like an exposed wire shorting to ground. Hope the hunt is short.

[Axeman88]

As could be predicted, my issue with blowing main fuses didn't fix itself, and progressed to the point where I couldn't ignore it any longer. Once I pulled off the Seat, Right Side Cover, and Fuel Tank, diagnosis and repair went quickly. It was, as I had anticipated, a fault in the insulation of the RED wire that goes from the Main Fuse to the Ignition Switch. This wire is live all the time since it's part of the main power circuit and in front of the ignition switch. Vibration had worn through the tape wrap around the harness and through the insulation at a point where the wire harness runs through the top engine mount. It was easily found and easily fixed. To repair, I used a little liquid electrical tape, then over-wrapped with electrical tape, adding a bit of bicycle innertube for extra protection at the wear point.

For this kind of job, I like to use a "beeper", that I put in the circuit in place of the fuse. This leaves my hands and eyes free to manipulate the harness into likely positions. With the ignition switch OFF, when the short is made, the circuit is completed, and the beeper beeps. This is much more efficient than using a meter or even a test light, and certainly better than blowing a bunch of fuses trial and error fashion.

Finding the short took less than two minutes. Maybe I got lucky, but the position seemed obvious. It's hard to imagine a harsher location than over the hottest point of the engine, and at a point of maximum vibration transmission. My next suspect would have been at the Ignition Switch. The wire bundle entering the Headlamp Housing, also looked like it could be better protected. Oh well, if it ain't broke, ......

[Vegas Street Rider]

Glad you found it and that it was an easy fix Axeman88. I had the same issue except mine was in the headlamp housing where the wire went into the multi terminal. I ended up cutting it at both the incoming and outgoing point and just direct wiring it. Problem solved.

Thanks for the pics as well. Safe riding.