This stuff?

[spldart]

http://www.gz250bike.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=453&stc=1&d=1433013564

[Water Warrior 2]

Good stuff. JASO certified and cheap to buy. Had it in my Suzuki Vstrom, Lynda's Suzuki M-50 and my Ford Ranger. All 3 worked very nicely with the 15-40 dino. Switched to the Rotella 5-40 synthetic in the Ranger and am real impressed with lower rpm power just above idle. Nice to have a little more bottom end power in traffic and on hilly streets. The GZ will likely thank you.
Your results may vary but I highly recommend it.

[chromedome195]

Very Good Stuff!

[blaine]

I 've used it for years!!! :)

[spldart]

Very well. I will report on the happiness of the motor ex post oil change.

[spldart]

50 miles on the Rotella.
Motor is quieter.
Motor comes to a stop slightly faster when I hit the kill switch.
Power seems the same.
Clutch seems exactly the same. good.

[spldart]

Post mileage changes in a few days. I've been consistent 75 to 80 mpg.

[grasshopper]

Good oil. I use it in both my Magna 750s and just put it in the mini van this past week end. Works great for the price. I will be putting it in my ford ranger here soon.

[spldart]

50 miles on the Rotella.
Motor is quieter.
Motor comes to a stop slightly faster when I hit the kill switch.
Power seems the same.
Clutch seems exactly the same. good.

100 miles.
Motor still quieter (just as easy to start)
Power seems the same.
Clutch has lost a tiny bit of grip. (if I flog it through the gears the clutch can't *grab* quite as solid. But it does grab)
This is a non-issue as I normally ride, well, normal and the clutch can still hold the motors power.

Perhaps there is a tiny bit of friction reducing additive compared to say Suzuki motor oil.

Still. I'm very happy with the brand and the fact I can go to walmart, even on a monday, and buy oil for my bike ;)

[gz250dude]

I tried this oil in my bike when I got it because I've been running it in my Honda Helix scooter for years and like it, but it of course is a CVT so it will use any oil.

The GZ didn't like this oil it seemed, I to experienced clutch slippage at higher RPM's when shifting gears that instantly was cured by switching back to castrol M/C 10w-40 oil so I will just stick with that I guess. Wet clutches seem more sensitive and I don't want to tear it up having it slip like that. I've used Valvoline M/C oil to, I get both at any of the local auto parts stores near me.

[blaine]

I have always used Rotella in all my bikes & never experienced this??? :)

[gz250dude]

blaine - the only way I can desribe it is like this, imagine going to 4th to 5th but the RPM's are up there some. When I let off the clutch it slips a few seconds before full engagement unless I shift with the throttle closed completely. When the regular M/C oil it doesn't do this, the clutch grabs immediately and the 250's throws me off the seat, well ok maybe that's an exaggeration LOL......

[blaine]

blaine - the only way I can desribe it is like this, imagine going to 4th to 5th but the RPM's are up there some. When I let off the clutch it slips a few seconds before full engagement unless I shift with the throttle closed completely. When the regular M/C oil it doesn't do this, the clutch grabs immediately and the 250's throws me off the seat, well ok maybe that's an exaggeration LOL......
Strange........A lot of people use Rotella & never had a problem in any bike.I even used in in my high reving Kawasaki 454 for 50000 k.I put 35000 k on my G.Z. using Rotella-T.................Question....Are you sure you not a tad over full?? :)

[gz250dude]

Strange........A lot of people use Rotella & never had a problem in any bike.I even used in in my high reving Kawasaki 454 for 50000 k.I put 35000 k on my G.Z. using Rotella-T.................Question....Are you sure you not a tad over full?? :)

I guess it was possible, it also wasn't broken in as it only had like 2800 miles on it
Now that I am up to 7000 it won't hurt to try it again.

[spldart]

Ok... I bought a non running bike that I don't know how it was ridden for the first 15,600 miles of it's life. I ran it for what... like 6 weeks with their oil.
For all I know the clutch wasn't in the best of shape and it's worn.....
I switch to the aforementioned Rotella and I get a little tiny bit of clutch slip. Perhaps my clutch was on the edge of failure? I dunno...
I'm just saying as I look at the previous owners receipts is Rotella may add a little tiny bit more slip over what they were using.
*Suzuki specific motorcycle oil*
Doesn't mean Rotella isn't a good brand...
I'm sticking with Rotella for now and if I have to I will throw a set of frictions at it if need be.

Don't be so defensive guys. I only state the facts of my personal situation.
I'm here to learn. Perhaps my clutch was about to fail anywho.

[Water Warrior 2]

Ok... I bought a non running bike that I don't know how it was ridden for the first 15,600 miles of it's life. I ran it for what... like 6 weeks with their oil.
For all I know the clutch wasn't in the best of shape and it's worn.....
I switch to the aforementioned Rotella and I get a little tiny bit of clutch slip. Perhaps my clutch was on the edge of failure? I dunno...
I'm just saying as I look at the previous owners receipts is Rotella may add a little tiny bit more slip over what they were using.
*Suzuki specific motorcycle oil*
Doesn't mean Rotella isn't a good brand...
I'm sticking with Rotella for now and if I have to I will throw a set of frictions at it if need be.

Don't be so defensive guys. I only state the facts of my personal situation.
I'm here to learn. Perhaps my clutch was about to fail anywho.
Have you gone throught the entire clutch adjustment procedure correctly? Starting with the clutch rod adjustment and working your way up to the lever. Just a thought.

[spldart]

Nah. This was just a 1 day prior to two days post comparison. I definitely need to pursue more detailed adjustment of the clutch. I don't know the details of the 'rod adjustment'
The clutches I've worked with have mainly had a lever mechanism that pulled on the outside plate using the clutch cable/arm/assy and not a rod push mechanism.
My observations weight were merely based on current condition of bike and the transition over 24 to 48 hours. I assume wear and tear in that short a time frame is trivial at best.

On the plus side I will be able to dump some more money on this ride soon. New brake pads front and rear, etc etc.

I'm really starting to have some fun with this 8D

[Water Warrior 2]

Nah. This was just a 1 day prior to two days post comparison. I definitely need to pursue more detailed adjustment of the clutch. I don't know the details of the 'rod adjustment'
The clutches I've worked with have mainly had a lever mechanism that pulled on the outside plate using the clutch cable/arm/assy and not a rod push mechanism.
My observations weight were merely based on current condition of bike and the transition over 24 to 48 hours. I assume wear and tear in that short a time frame is trivial at best.

On the plus side I will be able to dump some more money on this ride soon. New brake pads front and rear, etc etc.

I'm really starting to have some fun with this 8D
Some one will be along shortly to explain the rod adjustment. I am not that familiar with the GZ clutch stuff. But I can do it on a Vstrom 650. Piece of cake.:tup:

[spldart]

Well crud. The slipping clutch has gotten excessive. A gradual degradation starting at the oil change. I'm looking at a clutch job soon. Adjustments are as per service manual.