Single click sound when I try to start

[zuluanshee]

I try to start, and the first few times I try, I just get a single click each time I press the starter button. The bike starts, but it's requiring more and more click attempts.

I have not checked anything yet.

[raul10141964]

check the starter relay

[zuluanshee]

check the starter relay


lol I'll have to figure out what that is first. Thank goodness there's an internet.

[gz4me +]

The location for the starter relay on the GZ is on right side of the bike. Remove the front seat and the right frame cover. Look to the left of battery. The starter relay is small square box. Remove the battery - lead wire. Then remove the cover on the starter relay. Locate the starter motor wires and starter relay lead wire coupler. Disconnect these wires. To test the relay, you will need a multi circuit tester. If you have a tester, let me know. I will try and walk you thru the test procedure. Hope I have not confused you up to this point. If I have, let me know. I will wait for response from you before going any further.

[zuluanshee]

i appreciate your assistance. Unfortunately I do not own a multi circuit tester. I can buy one if they are reasonably cheap.

[zuluanshee]

Are these testers specific to vehicles, or are they for any circuits?

[Fawlty]

Are these testers specific to vehicles, or are they for any circuits?

Something like this is what you are looking for:

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Volt-Meter-Voltmeter-Multimeter/dp/B001RSREKI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1404279091&sr=8-8&keywords=12v+multimeter

I would also check your battery connections and test the battery.

[gz4me +]

Sorry! My computer keeps locking up, then windows shuts down. Once I get it back up, the response time is so sloooow. Maybe Alantf or one of the other members can help you. Got to sign off and try to fix this computer. Need to get this working. No $$$ for new one. Sorry for bailing on you.

[alantf]

The "click" sounds like the starter relay is pulling in. One of the more likely causes is a weak battery. You really do need a multimeter to check it. They're only a few dollars. Test across the battery terminals (meter set to dc voltage) and let us know the results. Sounds like a simple problem, but we need to know readings to help you further. :tup:

[jonathan180iq]

Since batteries are a common issue on these bikes, I would charge the battery and/or have it tested before I started worrying about parts failing.

[alantf]

Since batteries are a common issue on these bikes, I would charge the battery and/or have it tested before I started worrying about parts failing. :tup: :tup: :tup:

[zuluanshee]

Since batteries are a common issue on these bikes, I would charge the battery and/or have it tested before I started worrying about parts failing.

I had the battery tested today and it's at 100%.

[alantf]

7.jpg (http://www.gz250bike.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=264&stc=1&d=1404371840)

This is a simplified drawing of the starter circuit. You need to get a multimeter to find where the fault is. Set at dc voltage, you need to test (to ground, each time) each side of starter relay large terminals. If one shows voltage, then put your meter on the other terminal, and you should get voltage with the starter pressed (clutch pulled in). If this is ok, next step is starter motor terminal (with starter pressed and clutch pulled in) Do these tests, and let us know at what point you don't get voltage.

[raul10141964]

jump be twin the 2 big bolts with the black and read wires, if the engine crank is the relay if not run a wire from the positive at the battery to the starter

[alantf]

jump be twin the 2 big bolts with the black and read wires, if the engine crank is the relay if not run a wire from the positive at the battery to the starter

He said that he heard a click. This sound is most likely to be the relay pulling in. In that case I'd try the tests,to give a positive result. As for running a wire to the starter motor, it'd have to be a bloody great thick one, as the starter motor takes around 80amps. Don't even think about doing that with a bit of thin cable! BTW, the same applies to shorting out the relay terminals. As an electrician (retired) I'd say that the risks of shorting things out will always outweigh doing the proper tests. It's just not worth the risk of blowing youself up. I once saw a battery explode, and it's not a pretty sight.

[zuluanshee]

This is a cheapo multimeter. Is it ok to buy a cheap one, this motorcycle will be the only thing I use it for probably so I don't see any reason to buy anything too elaborate.

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3300-Hands-free-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B001O1X65A/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1404600819&sr=1-2&keywords=multimeter

[5th_bike]

Yes it's OK, any meter is better than no meter.
Although, I like the autoranging one better. It also has continuity (beeps when the wire is good)

[zuluanshee]

I found the culprit (facepalm). The cables to the battery terminals were loose. I didn't actually wiggle them, but on closer inspection, they were not fastened at all! No nut or anything.

So I bought a couple of nuts, but they don't fit in the holes in the side of the terminal, the holes are too small.

I had it fixed about a year back and the guy put a new battery in. I think what happened was the guy didn't have the right size and used a bigger one. But it doesn't look like there were any threads on the terminal.

So what is my next option? How do I fix the cables to the terminals?

[5th_bike]

There are no threads on terminals, so you need bolts and nuts.
Go to the hardware store and buy a pair of little bolts and nuts.

If your battery has the 'hollow cube' type of terminal, get square nuts that just fit in them.