Valve Adjustment

[WJTED1]

I was reading the manual for adjusting the valve and it states to put the feeler gauge under the hex screw, so does that mean right under the hex screw and above the rrocker arm? Not below the rocker arm correct?

Thanks,

WJTED1

[Goose51683]

WJTED1,

I may be wrong, and I'm pretty sure if I am I'll be promptly corrected but I believe the feeler goes directly above the stem of the valve that is located in the center of the valve springs. you shoudl see a small gap there, that is where the feeler should go.

I am actually doing my adjustments tonight, I'll try to remember to take a picture and add it here.

[blaine]

Goes between the top of the valve stem & the adjuster. ;) :)

[5th_bike]

I was reading the manual for adjusting the valve and it states to put the feeler gauge under the hex screw, so does that mean right under the hex screw and above the rrocker arm? Not below the rocker arm correct?

Thanks,

WJTED1
Wrong, it goes under the rocker arm too. There is no space between the hex nut and the rocker arm, except when you have it loosened to set the adjuster.

Hope it works out. the front ones are easy, and the inlet valves are hard, not much space to work with there.

[WJTED1]

I appreciate all of the assistance however I am still a little confused. I am attaching a picture with A and B as the possible points for the feeler guage. Any assistance would be awesome. I was thinking it's just best to take the whole top off?

[JohnC]

A - Between the top of the valve stem and the bottom of the square headed adjuster screw. If you remove the top the rockers will come off too and you won't have anything to adjust. You have to work through those small holes. Get a set of tapered feelers and make a bend about an inch up from the tip to about 30 degrees to make them easier to slip into the gap. Set the intakes so that .001" (I use .0015") fits in and .003" does not. Set the exhausts so .003" fits in and .005 does not. Err on the side of too loose.

[Water Warrior 2]

"Err on the side of too loose." That never made any sense to me until some one finally explained the reason. As the valve seats wear away the valves travel further into the head(upwards) and the clearance (A in the pic) gets less and less until there is no noise and the valves no longer seal tightly. A GZ with a little valve noise is a happy bike.

[WJTED1]

I think I know why I have been so confused...I am having problems getting the side thing off to adjust for Top Dead Center...When everyone has been telling me where to put the feeler guage all I see is a huge gap between the bottom(where the spring meets that flat surface) and the silver rocker arm(top just underneath the hex screw)? I am assuming once I can rotate the rocker arms that gap will dissapear or become close and then that's when I do the adjustment? I apologize for being so dense but I am so used to do it on my Ninja 250 this has been a little confusing. Once again..thanks everyone for their help. It is really appreciated!

[JohnC]

When the crankshaft is at top dead center on the compression stroke the valves are supposed to be completely closed. If you pull the rocker arms away from the valve stems the rocker arm adjusting screws will not touch the valve stems and the gap is the clearance you are adjusting. If there is no gap then either you are on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke (rotate the engine 360 degrees and recheck) or the adjustment is too tight and there is no clearance (adjust so there is). It is best to identify the compression stroke by the rush of air out the plug hole as the engine comes to TDC. It's less precise, but you can raise the rear wheel off the ground, but the bike in 5th gear, and use the rear wheel to rotate the engine. Be sure you are rotating the engine correctly (rear wheel turning forward) as you come up on the timing mark. If you overshoot, back up and try again.

[WJTED1]

Thanks to everyone! I finally got it! One last question..my crankshaft cap will not come off...any suggestions? I have used a quarter, a washer..and a piece of heavy gauge metal? Still stuck? Thanks!

[JohnC]

Spray some Kroil - PB Blaster - Rust Buster - Liquid Wrench, etc. around the edge of the plug and tap the plug lightly with a hammer. If the washer fits the slot tightly it's probably your best bet. Use pliers to get more leverage. Tapping the washer while you try to turn it may also help. Repeat all steps as necessary.

[OldNTired]

Thanks to everyone! I finally got it! One last question..my crankshaft cap will not come off...any suggestions? I have used a quarter, a washer..and a piece of heavy gauge metal? Still stuck? Thanks!

The best tool I've ever found for this is a US Silver Eagle. It fits perfectly. Put a piece of cloth
over it, and turn it using a pair of pliers.