Rejected inspection: front turn signals

[bwader]

Hi, I just bought my 2005 GZ with 5,008 miles and just got the title,registration,taxes done today.

Took it to get inspected: only thing was when selecting left or right, both signals flash but the LEFT or RIGHT one shows up more bright than the other one. Pick left, right lights up too though dimmer

The other day it looked fine, I didn't notice they both flashed.

Hopefully this is a simple fix?

I had a 150cc scooter for a year and 3,300 miles and had to fix a lot of gremlins with that being brand new from china.

[bwader]

I'm looking through the repair pdf off of here in the meantime.

[raul10141964]

fix the ground

[jonathan180iq]

Yeah, sounds like a ground is weak and it's searching for one through the other side.

[5th_bike]

Just an idea, but it could also have a too high wattage bulb in the turn signal indicator light. Because the current through that bulb also goes through the "other" signal indicator.

[bwader]

I guess this points me to: take apart the turn signals and check wattage of bulbs. wear gloves and clean with alcohol if I do touch it with fingers.

I'll look for the ground wire and make sure it leads to the frame to be grounded.

I was kind of hoping on hearing something like "oh yeah that happened to me once, I did this and this and it fixed the problem".

I never would have guess grounding has such a significant impact on lights working right.

I just want to get this fixed so I can start riding to work!

[bwader]

Another thing I want to fix is the turn signal indicator light on the instrument cluster.

That would be nice, for the time being I go by feel when I move the switch left, off, right.

Neutral light works at least

[mole2]

Another thing I want to fix is the turn signal indicator light on the instrument cluster.

That would be nice, for the time being I go by feel when I move the switch left, off, right.

Neutral light works at least

That can also be your problem with the directional signals.


:)

[Water Warrior 2]

Ckeck the wattage of the bulbs. Clean out any corrosion in the sockets as well as the bulb bases. Poor grounds and corrosion can cause all sorts of silly stuff to happen.
Keep in mind the front signals are also running lights with 2 elements and the rear are only one element for signals only.

[bwader]

Ckeck the wattage of the bulbs. Clean out any corrosion in the sockets as well as the bulb bases. Poor grounds and corrosion can cause all sorts of silly stuff to happen.
Keep in mind the front signals are also running lights with 2 elements and the rear are only one element for signals only.

Ok I'll start here. This sounds like a good starting point.

[bwader]

I checked the bulb 12V 21/5

I tried starting with kick stand down and it starts up. So I'm thinking that shouldn't happen its supposed to be up to be able to start. I had it in neutral and pulled in clutch

[alantf]

No, you're supposed to be able to start with the stand down. The safety switch cuts the engine if you put it in gear with the stand down. This is so that you can't ride off with the stand down. :)

[bwader]

ok that's good to know. Wires went from the turn signal lights to the headlight casing. So I guess the rest is inside there. Its been raining and didn't have much dry time outside to really do anything but check the bulbs and put them back in.

I checked all the fuses in the fuse box and the 20amp one on the right near the battery was good.

[jonathan180iq]

There is a way with one of those pokey electrical testers to test resistance to see if your ground is working. Alan will have to detail that or just read the instructions on your volt meter. But it's fairly easy from what I recall, I just couldn't tell you how to set it up or what to look for without doing it again. If the ground isn't solid, the polarity will let you know.

[bwader]

I have a volt tester, somewhere it talked about testing the side/stand relay A through H or something put 12volts to 2 places then test two other places. Yeah whatever.....

This is keeping me from getting an inspection sticker! it would be different if I was just being anal about wanting it to look right. It works fine to me but to that inspector they both blink and its not hazard lights on. I don't think this bike has a hazard button.

Its raining today still so I wouldn't be riding tonight to work anyway.

[alantf]

[attachment=0:rvbti8kl]img002.jpg[/attachment:rvbti8kl]They say a picture's worth a thousand words, so I've done a little sketch. With the meter set to ohms (say, the 200 ohm scale) you should get a reading of just above zero( i.e. no resistance to earth.) I say "just above" zero, because the meter will read the residual resistance of the meter & leads.

[mole2]

Another thing I want to fix is the turn signal indicator light on the instrument cluster.

That would be nice, for the time being I go by feel when I move the switch left, off, right.

Neutral light works at least

That can also be your problem with the directional signals.


:)

Do Dis First.


:)

[5th_bike]

Do Dis First.
:)

YES !!! :plus1:


a) both of your turn lights blink
b) your turn signal indicator bulb doesn't work

Conclusion: there is a short at your turn signal indicator!

Because, if the turn signal indicator would be just "out" (dead) there is no current going through it, so then the 'other' signal indicator would not blink at all.
But, since it is shorting, both turn signal lights blink.

To remove: work the turn signal indicator assembly up, through the round hole, until you can work the lens out of the black rubber. The, pull the rubber down through the hole. Roll the rubber back to get to the bulb.
The short could be "internal" to the bulb, or at the bottom of the bulb, or at the wires outside the assembly (small chance), so just pull the bulb and see what happens.

[mole2]

Do Dis First.
:)

YES !!! :plus1:


a) both of your turn lights blink
b) your turn signal indicator bulb doesn't work

Conclusion: there is a short at your turn signal indicator!

Because, if the turn signal indicator would be just "out" (dead) there is no current going through it, so then the 'other' signal indicator would not blink at all.
But, since it is shorting, both turn signal lights blink.

To remove: work the turn signal indicator assembly up, through the round hole, until you can work the lens out of the black rubber. The, pull the rubber down through the hole. Roll the rubber back to get to the bulb.
The short could be "internal" to the bulb, or at the bottom of the bulb, or at the wires outside the assembly (small chance), so just pull the bulb and see what happens.

Yes, it's a tie between both circuits and can cause a feedback. Just replace the bulb and see what happens. :2tup:


:)

[bwader]

:2tup: So far I took the bulb out it seems to work normal now. Ill see in the morning with a new bulb I'll pick up at advance auto in the morning.

Damn, I might have been able to pass inspection just pulling out the bulb. Though I'm not holding my breath either, its dark out and only with the motorcycle lights on it seems to have been the problem!

Wow this was really simple to do. Only thing though the place I got inspected, Tread Quarters has only one inspector and he said in advance he was not going to be there Wednesday, sucks its Wednesday now after midnight.
Ahh be patient and wait til Thursday and spend 1$ or spend another $12 at a different inspection station.

I'll wait another day, it will be my luck it will rain Friday when I return to work.

Thanks everyone for your inputs and help. I'll try the new bulb and I'll post here the results and go from there.

[bwader]

I have advance, autozone, and an O'Reilly autoparts stores within a few miles.

I tried searching for 12volt 3.4watt bulb or even turn signal indicator bulb. Though indicator comes up with some motorcycle looking replacements.

[mole2]

:2tup: So far I took the bulb out it seems to work normal now. Ill see in the morning with a new bulb I'll pick up at advance auto in the morning.

Damn, I might have been able to pass inspection just pulling out the bulb. Though I'm not holding my breath either, its dark out and only with the motorcycle lights on it seems to have been the problem!

Wow this was really simple to do. Only thing though the place I got inspected, Tread Quarters has only one inspector and he said in advance he was not going to be there Wednesday, sucks its Wednesday now after midnight.
Ahh be patient and wait til Thursday and spend 1$ or spend another $12 at a different inspection station.

I'll wait another day, it will be my luck it will rain Friday when I return to work.

Thanks everyone for your inputs and help. I'll try the new bulb and I'll post here the results and go from there.

Simple? Yes. Always try to KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid. When trouble shooting you start at the simplest and work your way up. :2tup:


:)

[mole2]

I have advance, autozone, and an O'Reilly autoparts stores within a few miles.

I tried searching for 12volt 3.4watt bulb or even turn signal indicator bulb. Though indicator comes up with some motorcycle looking replacements.

Leave it out and get the inspection (as long as it's not required). Then check out the vids below. I like how the half of the light flashes on the side you're turning.

[youtube:1lblrwot]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hn5DoYWL0tA[/youtube:1lblrwot]

[youtube:1lblrwot]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqO7U92Wp84[/youtube:1lblrwot]


:)

[bwader]

Yep I'm aware of the KISS concept just didn't know taking out or changing the turn signal indicator bulb would be easy.

Mole2 those videos came up as just an ! in the middle. I'll look on u tube

[bwader]

I got a new Sylvania 3.4watt mini bulb and it works in the socket.

BUT, it still same problem lights alternate.

Maybe its the boot part

I set up an appointment tomorrow morning at the closest motorcycle mechanic shop a Harley Davidson dealership 8 miles away.

I started taking off the headlight to check out the connections inside earlier and I'm having trouble putting it back together right. It came off with a jiggle and some screws removed but I found one had a spring came out. I put that back in along with the white plastic part, spring was a pain to put back in its spot but I got it.

Just the headlight part is not on right just got held with a screw to not go anywhere. Going with my woman to get her another tattoo on her foot soon so I'll be at it maybe later. Wish I didn't take off the head light cover, I wouldn't have to deal with it right now, putting it back in right.

[alantf]

I think you've removed the wrong screws. The screws with springs are for adjusting the direction of the beam, not removing the headlight.

[bwader]

That's what that for. I'll be trying to put it back in right and get the screw lined up.

[mole2]

I got a new Sylvania 3.4watt mini bulb and it works in the socket.

BUT, it still same problem lights alternate.

Maybe its the boot part

I set up an appointment tomorrow morning at the closest motorcycle mechanic shop a Harley Davidson dealership 8 miles away.

I started taking off the headlight to check out the connections inside earlier and I'm having trouble putting it back together right. It came off with a jiggle and some screws removed but I found one had a spring came out. I put that back in along with the white plastic part, spring was a pain to put back in its spot but I got it.

Just the headlight part is not on right just got held with a screw to not go anywhere. Going with my woman to get her another tattoo on her foot soon so I'll be at it maybe later. Wish I didn't take off the head light cover, I wouldn't have to deal with it right now, putting it back in right.

If you look at the schematic in the service manual online here you'll see there is a lead from the right front directional and a lead from the left front directional that go to the indicator bulb. There is no ground going to that indicator bulb and there are no diodes in those leads to prevent feedback. It's quite possible that the bulb is a special bulb from the manufacturer because if you put those leads to each side of a filament there is going to be a feedback when the bulb looks for ground. It's a strange setup indeed. It's got me stumped at this point especially since if you remove the bulb the feedback goes away (according to your prior post).


:)

[bwader]

If you look at the schematic in the service manual online here you'll see there is a lead from the right front directional and a lead from the left front directional that go to the indicator bulb. There is no ground going to that indicator bulb and there are no diodes in those leads to prevent feedback. It's quite possible that the bulb is a special bulb from the manufacturer because if you put those leads to each side of a filament there is going to be a feedback when the bulb looks for ground. It's a strange setup indeed. It's got me stumped at this point especially since if you remove the bulb the feedback goes away (according to your prior post).


:)[/quote]

Sorry about that, I had thought that, but I was wrong. When I took out the bad bulb I couldn't tell if it did or not. I got a bulb and it works fine, just not 2 filaments in there just one. As it works now the indicator bulb lights up the same in left or right position but in the middle it stops. That's good enough for me.

I don't know where to readily find that 2 filament split bulb. That boot might be shorting still, I guess I don't know. Maybe just having the right bulb keeps it from trying to ground on the opposite turn signal bulb.

At any rate I have an appointment with that Harley Davidson shop at 930am in the morning so hopefully its money worth spent if its a deeper problem.

I haven't gone through all that wiring in the headlight housing so it could very well be in there or wherever it gets grounded to the frame.

I skimmed past that second video earlier. Usually I'm a do it yourselfer for saving money but on this one I'm going with what my better judgement tells me not to and to listen to my woman- go take it to a shop to get it fixed.

Goodnight its midnight thirty here.

[mole2]

Sorry about that, I had thought that, but I was wrong. When I took out the bad bulb I couldn't tell if it did or not. I got a bulb and it works fine, just not 2 filaments in there just one. As it works now the indicator bulb lights up the same in left or right position but in the middle it stops. That's good enough for me.

That's the way it is supposed to work.

I don't know where to readily find that 2 filament split bulb. That boot might be shorting still, I guess I don't know. Maybe just having the right bulb keeps it from trying to ground on the opposite turn signal bulb.

At any rate I have an appointment with that Harley Davidson shop at 930am in the morning so hopefully its money worth spent if its a deeper problem.

I haven't gone through all that wiring in the headlight housing so it could very well be in there or wherever it gets grounded to the frame.

I skimmed past that second video earlier. Usually I'm a do it yourselfer for saving money but on this one I'm going with what my better judgement tells me not to and to listen to my woman- go take it to a shop to get it fixed.

Goodnight its midnight thirty here.

Ok, just to make sure I understand you. The directionals are working properly AND the indicator is working properly. The indicator just flashes, it doesn't indicate which side. That is how it's designed. The Youtube videos show you how to have it work showing which side is blinking.


:)

[bwader]

Yep that is correct. The signals just flash alternating, weaker on the unselected side. Leaving soon for the HD shop, I feel like I might get the run around because I don't have a Harley. I don't know I'm going to say aren't too many motorcycle mechanics around here. There is a BMW motorcycle I'd feel even more uncomfortable going there.

[alantf]

I've done you a simplified drawing of the turn signal circuit. Forget about the marker lights for the moment, because they are fed from the lighting circuit, and just use the same ground as the turn signal filament of the bulb. I've put in some arrows to show what happens when the switch is pushed one way. The current flows through the switch, then to the front & rear bulb (in this case, the bulbs at the bottom of the drawing) The current carries on to one side of the warning light, and returns by passing through the front & rear bulbs of the opposite side signals. When the switch is put the other way, the current flows to the other bulbs, and flows in the opposite direction through the warning light. This is why it's essential to get the correct wattage bulbs, so that everything works in harmony. Also, all grounds must be perfect, to allow the current to flow in the correct path.[attachment=0:5wkzhaqg]img003.jpg[/attachment:5wkzhaqg]

[bwader]

Well it was worth a try going to that Harley shop. Even though they are a Certified Inspection Station with that sign and all they DO NOT WORK on IMPORTS. At least the guy was nice about it and told me another place nearby I could go.

Walking outside there was an old man about 70-80 and was standing there looking at my bike and shook my hand.

He helped me and took off the headlight and checked all the connections. Checked all over the bike taking some panels off and looking for that bad ground.

Must have spent 45min to an hour checking stuff. And told me of a good place to go and how to get there. I thanked him multiple times. And started up bike and rode down the rode about a mile or so and.....

Engine died I must have been in too high of gear and downshifted but fail and ended up pushing it to the nearest gas station.

Asked people if they had jumper cables and nobody did. Called my girlfriend who came by with my jumper cables I know work. And no luck at all. I had ignition on POS to POS and NEG to NEG. Then remembered that one of them negatives got to go to the frame. Still no luck.

So I'm cooling off at home with my bike at a gas station, going to drive back there and try again with my car. And move my bike so it doesn't get towed. I don't know how old the battery is but to be sure I'm buying a new battery for it, I'm not messing around. If the one on there now is good after charging I'll have a spare.

Then I can try ONCE AGAIN at a different SHOP!

[alantf]

Just remember........... When jump starting the bike, THE CAR ENGINE MUST NOT BE RUNNING. The high charging current of a car with the engine running will fry a bike battery. As for the jump leads, one goes to battery +ve, and one to battery -ve. The reason being that the battery -ve is connected to ground.

BTW, if you tried to start the bike with jump leads, from a non running car, and you connected pos to pos, and neg to neg, and the bike wouldn't start, it doesn't sound like it's the battery at fault. If that was the case, the boost from the car battery should have started the bike. If you tried it with the car running, you may have have fried something, or, with luck, blown a fuse (possibly the 20A main fuse). your first step should be to ckeck the fuses.

[bwader]

Its been a VERY long day. I went to advance auto they had one at another, went there they looked for a half hour with 4 people looking for it.

I went to O Reilly they had one, it ended up being the wrong battery too big. That wasted 3 hours filling that battery with acid waiting and then charging for 2 hours at 1.5amps.

I tried jumpstarting again no luck- original battery, though the big battery I jerry rigged with a bungee cord to hold it in place and that turned over. I found that I had what I think was a vacuum line off of the "on,prime,reserve" petcock.

I went to a autozone they had the RIGHT one I made sure brought the original one with me to compare.
It was and this time I got home, read directions put in the acid in this battery and waited a half hour didn't even charge it. And it started up. I was glad I got the right size battery and I have it on the charger now that I got the bike safely home.

Now I get to go to work tomorrow I'm going to try this other place that is a block away that I didn't know they fixed bikes, its more of a design place. But they mainly fix dirt bikes Suzuki,yamaha,kawasaki,honda and ATVs.

Hopefully somebody can take my bike and find this bad ground that has lead to being the one of the biggest frustrations for me. :??:
Then take that $75 wrong battery and see if I can at least get store credit since its used now.

I wanted a new battery anyhow but damn this was definitely the harder way. I check online for stuff before I go places but its pretty bad when they say they have it online and don't really have it, then they say they have it at another location then they don't have it. :roll:

I'll start calling around places and checking before I drive there now, but sometimes don't have their phone number and its not too bad to just drive there.

They old man said that its a bad ground for the front turn signals, since the rear turn signals don't do it.

[bwader]

I got out the volt meter and tested the turn signal sockets without the bulbs with the key off.

LEFT: readings jump around from 11 to 99 pretty much double digits under 200 omms horseshoe symbol

RIGHT: readings are 1.0 , 1.3, 1.4, to 2.0 and in between omms

I tried it both ways came out the same using positive or negative tester leads.

Hope this helps someone help me

I have the battery charging disconnected to the bike or else I would have tried with the key in on position and running.

[5th_bike]

I don't know where to readily find that 2 filament split bulb.

It's probably clear to you by now, - they don't exist, i.e. not available commercially - actually the "2 filament split bulb" really doesn't exist, because:

The ones in the videos are made out of 2 white LEDs and a resistor, soldered on the base of an old bulb(you will have to crack and remove the hollow glass part, and the filament and the little glass ball under it) and then solder 2 LEDs in parallel (but opposite polarity) with a resistor (forgot how many ohms, like 500, see 2nd video) in series onto the two leftover bulb wires. An hour or so of tinkering. A little piece of thin cardboard in between them takes care of the left/right half of the lens being lit.

The two LEDS set up this way take advantage of the current going opposite ways when left vs. right turn signals are activated. For beginners, LED = Light Emitting Diode, where Diode = electric one-way valve.

[bwader]

When I watched that 2nd video where the guy tells how to do it I thought they got made and he just liked making them or wanted to show how to make one. But its clear now nobody makes them.

[bwader]

my supervisor at work told me I should just make a ground, just splice the ground into the current one and to a bolt to the frame.

I'm going to try this

[bwader]

I went to another shop the guy told me it would be $55 a signal and he couldn't get to it until Monday.

$110 :roll: Yeah right like I'm paying that. I'd pay that to replace the rear tire including cost of the tire and inner tube, but not this. Going to try making my own ground wire off the ground wires on the signals. Just a strip the original ground wire and wrap the new ground wire to that and find a good spot on the frame for it like a bolt.

[alantf]

Just a strip the original ground wire and wrap the new ground wire to that

No, No, No. At least use a choc block, but the best way is to solder the two wires together. Never, ever, just wrap the two wires together. That's the recipe for high resistance. :)

[mole2]

I got a new Sylvania 3.4watt mini bulb and it works in the socket.

...

It's the wrong bulb. It needs to be a 12v 1.7w bulb. You can get the correct bulb from Partszill.com (http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/2005/GZ250/SPEEDOMETER/parts.html). It's number 9 in the schematic. I've never used them so I can't vouch for them.

Edit:

It's Suzuki part number 09471-12108


:)

[5th_bike]

Yes first get the good bulb. You will see, everything will work like it should, and you don't need a 'new ground'.

[bwader]

Ok I haven't done anything to it yet.

Ok I'll try the 1.7 watt bulb first

And if that doesn't work I'll solder the grounds together if need be, hopefully I won't need to.

[alantf]

The reason you need the exact wattage bulbs is the path the current takes through the warning light, and the two signal bulbs. It's designed, with the flasher unit, for the combined resistances to make it work correctly. If anything's not working (such as a bulb) the warning light flashes erratically, or not at all, to show you that there's something wrong.

[bwader]

Hopefully that does the trick! I thought the 3.4 watt bulb listed on the manual was the right one. I guess it means it puts out 3.4 watts for it to work right it using a 1.7 watt signal indicator bulb

[bwader]

I tried a couple local auto parts stores for this 1.7watt mini bulb at autozone and an advance they had 1.1watt and 1.3watt but none 1.7watt.
I'll keep searching online for local pickup but a lot of places don't specify the exact specs or say wattage on the bulb sometimes.
If there's a place I can just pick it up tonight its 430pm where I am, that would be great.
Understandably parts found at these places are geared towards cars and autos.

I'll order online if I can't get it today in person

[bwader]

It's the wrong bulb. It needs to be a 12v 1.7w bulb. You can get the correct bulb from Partszill.com (http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/2005/GZ250/SPEEDOMETER/parts.html). It's number 9 in the schematic. I've never used them so I can't vouch for them.

It's Suzuki part number 09471-12108

I found one at a familiar website I bought lots of parts from when I had my scooter.
http://www.partsforscooters.com/164-76

I ordered from partzilla so I'l just have to wait

[bwader]

It was backordered! It won't be shipped until Thursday! I haven't thought about it until now I'll check the other mini bulbs to see if they are right or not.

On page 228 it says speedometer light 1.7watts
Neutral indicator light 3.4 watts
Turn signal indicator light 3.4 watts
High beam indicator light 1.7watts

According to this I have the right Turn signal indicator bulb in right now. Unless its supposed to be a 1.7watt.
If I can get to the high beam indicator light or speedometer light easy, I'll try to swap it and see what happens.

[bwader]

I ordered one 1.7watt bulb from both Partzilla and Partsforscooters.

And I can tell you Partsforscooters has good service and they ship quickly especially on this order.

I ordered off Partzilla first sunday expected Monday or Tuesday it would get shipped, it was backordered so it won't be shipped until Thursday.

Partsfor scooters I ordered yesterday at 11am it got shipped out same day and according to tracking I should get it tomorrow Wednesday, a day sooner than partzilla could get it in backordered.

I looked on Partsforscooters and there's obviously not much parts for GZ owners other than some light bulbs and spark plugs and a few other things

[mole2]

I'm looking forward to see what happens. :)


:)

[bwader]

No luck, the 1.7watt 12volt bulb in the signal indicator didn't fix the problem.

I see what looks like aground wire to the left of the kick stand.

Then there is what looks like a ground wire behind the sprocket cover. Whatever it is, its a wire.

Might be a bad contact at these points I don't know. :??:

[Water Warrior 2]

Bwader !! Quit guessing and listen up. Have you checked the front and rear bulb sockets for rust or corrossion? Have you checked the bulbs with a meter? You can easily have a poor ground in those locations and it only costs you a little time. Do you have a simple test light. You can test the power points in the bulb sockets to see if they are getting power as designed. Eliminate the easy stuff first.

[alantf]

I see what looks like aground wire to the left of the kick stand.



On the GZ, if it's black/white it's a ground.

[bwader]

Bwader !! Quit guessing and listen up. Have you checked the front and rear bulb sockets for rust or corrossion? Have you checked the bulbs with a meter? You can easily have a poor ground in those locations and it only costs you a little time. Do you have a simple test light. You can test the power points in the bulb sockets to see if they are getting power as designed. Eliminate the easy stuff first.

Front bulb sockets are free of rust and corrosion. Voltage on those sockets is about the same ranging from 2-10 volts in both while engine is running.

I've pulled apart the connections in the headlight assembly and put them back together so those have good connections there at least.

A test light? No I have extra mini bulbs I could try between two connections.

I haven't checked the rear ones I'll do that.


I'm learning as I go here with testing stuff, I just know to make sure wires match up and connect.

I was looking for ground locations on the frame to loosen up, take rust off, and make the best connection. I know from looking off the repair pdf that there is a ground location on the engine on the rear part on top.

I just found one I didn't know about, its in the front of the engine on the right side and has a rubber boot cover over it.

[alantf]

Voltage on those sockets is about the same ranging from 2-10 volts in both while engine is running.



That's not good... Do you mean 2-10 volts while your meter is across them, or 2-10 volts during several tests? If it's while your meter is across them, the fluctuation could be due to your leads not making proper connections. If you mean that some tests give a constant 2v, while other tests give a constant 10v, that's a completely different kettle of fish, and we need to find out why it's happening.

[bwader]

I mean it fluctuates from anywhere from 2-10volts when I tried to test the bulb sockets.Left and left signal and right and right signal.

[bwader]

Ok so I took off the gas tank and was able to see more gang connectors and unhooked and rehooked them in looking in them.

I found a connection on the top frame with a gang connector. When its hooked together I have my problem but when I unhook it the turn signals flash front and back the way they should.

Except that that the headlight and signal lights aren't all on. Just signals work.

Reconnected everything works but my problem with the signals both flashing.

The rear signal lights make the rear brake light flash alternating with whichever signal is chosen.

Those rear bulbs were both 12volt 21watt bulbs. One on the right had "Lo" on it and the other one I can't remember but it was different.

When I test the grounds on the right and left side going to the rear under the seat it is not .1 omms.

Just to be clear, when I test the ground wires I should have it on omms 200 on the meter and pos to the ground wire and neg. to the frame. If its .1 then the ground is good right?

[5th_bike]

Yes 0.1 ohm to ground is good enough.

Note, in this case, ground = 0VDC, it's tied to the negative pole of the battery.

..pos to the ground wire and neg to the frame.
It doesn't matter as long as there is no voltage difference. Then, don't measure ohms.

On the side, the 3.4W bulb should have a resistance of about 42 ohms.

And, with the signals off, when you measure the ohms at the contacts in the indicator housing (the rubber part under the dashboard) with the bulb out of it, it should be 6.85 ohms. Your multimeter's test current will then go through both front and rear 21W signal bulbs and via all (4) ground wires and the other two bulbs back to your other test probe. If it is significantly less (say less than 4 ohms), you have a short somewhere.
Again, measure this only with the signals OFF (and the bike should be off alltogether).

[mole2]

Ok so I took off the gas tank and was able to see more gang connectors and unhooked and rehooked them in looking in them.

I found a connection on the top frame with a gang connector. When its hooked together I have my problem but when I unhook it the turn signals flash front and back the way they should.

Except that that the headlight and signal lights aren't all on. Just signals work.

Reconnected everything works but my problem with the signals both flashing.

The rear signal lights make the rear brake light flash alternating with whichever signal is chosen.

Those rear bulbs were both 12volt 21watt bulbs. One on the right had "Lo" on it and the other one I can't remember but it was different.

When I test the grounds on the right and left side going to the rear under the seat it is not .1 omms.

Just to be clear, when I test the ground wires I should have it on omms 200 on the meter and pos to the ground wire and neg. to the frame. If its .1 then the ground is good right?

If I remember correctly the bulbs should have only one contact on the bottom. Look at the bulbs and see if someone forced a bulb with two contacts into the socket or visa versa. You'll know how many contacts are required by looking in the socket.


:)

[bwader]

That 6.85 omms is should be very helpful I'll let you know what it is on mine when I try it.

The 2 pairs of wires under the seat going to the rear signal lights tested about 8 or so omms on the connection to the frame.

I know for certain the front bulbs have 2 parts, a lower one and a higher one on the other side, I know what you mean, some bulbs have just one "nubb" on it to go in the socket while some others have 2.

[bwader]

At the signal light indicator I got 1.5 omms. So I'll be searching for a short from what was said earlier.

In the headlight, I cut some rubber from a pair of scrap rubber boots to prevent chaffing of the wires from vibration in the back of the headlight. I checked all the wires for chaffing and none are exposed through the insulation.
There is an extra connector I suspect is an auxiliary. It has a ground and a brown wire and no other connection to it.

[5th_bike]

Wait a minute, did I do it right?
21W for 12V, that means there is 21/12 = 1.75 A going through each bulb.

12V and 1.75A, that means the resistance of each bulb is 12/1.75 = 6.857... ohms.

We have 4 bulbs, 2 in parallel (front and back - this halves the total resistance), and those in series (left and right - this doubles it again), so the final resistance is still 6.857.. ohms. Yes.

Now if you take all 4 bulbs out (or just both lefts, or both rights) your ohms should be 'infinity'. Please check that next. If you still measure the same 1.5 ohms, there is a short somewhere for sure.

I suspect the indicator wiring/housing. But I'm not sure about that.

[alantf]

In the headlight, the European models have a small parking light bulb, while American bikes don't, but it's a standard wiring harness. I think this is the connector for that bulb (the connector with nothing going to it). To prove it, there should be 0v with the lights off, and 12v when the lights are switched on. (between the two terminals in the connector)

[bwader]

So after a ride around the neighborhood a few times.

I tested the signal indicator bulb with key off and left bulbs out. I got = 1 .
with it on I got 10.6 volts and decreasing
running 11.6 volts

Ok putting in just the front left bulb in I got = 1.5ohms
When I put in the rear left I got = 1.2 ohms then 1.1ohms after a minute

That auxiliary bulb connector I got 0 volts for off 11.8v for on
Ohms I tested for Shits and giggles I got 7.8ohms

[5th_bike]

The 1.1 ohms indicate a short.

The indicator bulb itself, 3.4W, should be 12/(3.4/12) = 42 ohms.

Just to make sure, you did test the two contacts in the indicator bulb housing (the rubber thing), with all (5) bulbs out, or the indicator bulb plus (both lefts or both rights) out?

Then, you should have infinity ohms. If you have around 1 ohm again, there is a short for sure.

[jonathan180iq]

I tested the signal indicator bulb with key off and left bulbs out. I got = 1 .
with it on I got 10.6 volts and decreasing
running 11.6 volts



With the bike running you were getting 11.6?
What happens when you do the same test on the battery itself, with the bike running?

*NOTE: This is an aside - not focused on your blinker short, which you have... ;)

[bwader]

I tested the signal indicator bulb with key off and left bulbs out. I got = 1 .
with it on I got 10.6 volts and decreasing
running 11.6 volts

I got a reading of 1____. not a 1.0 I think it means "open" that's what came up 1______. on the screen.

I know the symbol for infinity its a sideways figure 8.

[bwader]

I tested without the left side signal bulbs then one and then normal

[5th_bike]

I tested the signal indicator bulb
no no, test the contacts in the rubber housing, where the bulb normally sits (but i think you did).

got a reading of 1____. not a 1.0 I think it means "open" that's what came up 1______. on the screen.

I know the symbol for infinity its a sideways figure 8.

Yes, ? indeed, but multimeters (at least, the cheapies that I work with) don't say ? - if you also get 1______. when you measure nothing in the ohms setting, that means infinity then, and you have no short.


Anyway, I suggest to go back to without the signal indicator bulb in. That should keep the other lights from flashing at all.

[bwader]

I did test only the separate connectors in the signal indicator socket.
I pulled the rubber far down to make it easier.

Trust me I'd be riding without a signal indicator bulb in if those signals didn't alternate like they do.

I I've had in there a 1.1watt, 1.7watt, and 3.4 watt bulbs and its the same in that socket.

[alantf]

It's still giving all the symptoms of a bad ground. Don't forget that there's a ground at both the back and front of the bike. If one of them is bad, then the return path through the opposite circuit will put the front and rear bulbs in series instead of parallel. This will throw the resistance, and thus the current, of the circuit out of whack, and give you these weird results.

[bwader]

With the bike running you were getting 11.6?
What happens when you do the same test on the battery itself, with the bike running?

*NOTE: This is an aside - not focused on your blinker short, which you have... ;)[/quote]

I got 12.6 volts off and 13.6 while running from the battery.

I have been testing ohms on ground connections from battery and following the wires. At the battery negative I get 0.3 ohms at best. Then when I get to the harness part under the gas tank beside the neon green connectors I got 1.0 ohms.

Where is the rear ground?

It seems to be the wires in the cable running next to the air filter. I get 1.0 ohms near there

[alantf]

Where is the rear ground?



According to the drawing it goes directly to the battery. It's the one that picks up other grounds on the way,

I think you need to print off a copy of the wiring diagram (or two) then follow the circuit you want to find, with a marker pen. That way, you can see just the circuit you want to trace, and get rid of (for the time being) the stuff you don't want. :)

[bwader]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GZ250-GZ-250-SU ... ea&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/GZ250-GZ-250-SUZUKI-MARAUDER-OEM-MAIN-WIRE-WIRING-HARNESS-/140808615658?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c8d8f6ea&vxp=mtr)

There really isn't too much to it, looking a the harness but I wish I would have fixed it by now.

[alantf]

Just remember..........keep searching for black/white cables. They're the ground on the GZ. :2tup:

[bwader]

It seems to be under the wrappings. I'm thinking about buying a good used harness.

If the front right on the engine is the ground and mine is good there and the rear harness is off of the negative terminal of the battery, and reattaching connections isn't fixing it then I think putting a different one in that worked right should work right in my bike.

I've had this bike over 3 weeks and paying 30 bucks for a good used harness is sounding like a good option in my head right now. Course being able to fix my harness with just 5,060 miles and 8 or nine years old would be cheaper.

What do you think? What would you do at this point, doing it yourself without spending too much more time and money on this?

[alantf]

Time is free :) I'm still convinced that it's a ground fault. At the front of the bike, between the bulb holders and ground.

[bwader]

I agree with you alan, my time is free.

I feel like I know what I'm doing going through all the grounds and testing ohms.

I found that under the seat, the left side grounds beside the storage box going to the rear signals, read 20 ohms or higher at least one of them. All of them were at least greater than 6 ohms as much as 50 ohms.

On the plus side I tested all the headlamp connection grounds and they all tested 0.3 or 0.4 ohms. same as the battery negative ground reading .3 ohms.

On the right side of the bike beside the battery- the two starter and other lower connector grounds tested .3 ohms.

I tested the connections after putting them together too to be sure the reading stayed the same.

It all points me to believe the thick cable wiring on the left side under the seat going under the gas tank has bad grounds within the wrapping. If I'm going to take off the wiring harness and expose wiring then I might as well have a decent replacement. I went ahead and ordered a wiring harness the seller claims had no problems and came from a 2005 GZ.

[bwader]

Time is free :) I'm still convinced that it's a ground fault. At the front of the bike, between the bulb holders and ground.

So maybe replacing the rubber socket boot that holds the turn signal indicator?

[alantf]

I'm talking about the ground that's common to both of the front turn signal bulbs. So it's the resistance (should be low) between the metal bulb holders and the bike frame. Although, if you're sure they're ok, then its entirely possible that there is a break in the ground in the harness, because I'm not sure where the ground goes to, because I'm working from the wiring diagram, and not physically tracing the wiring on the bike.

[bwader]

I'm going to take off the front and rear grounds on the engine and wire brush and put back on then wire brush the negative terminal on the battery. Maybe I can get .2 or .1 ohms there at least

[jonathan180iq]

Worst case scenario, you could just get some universal blinkers and homewire them just enough to pass the test. Then worry about the actual OEM blinkers later... that would get your through inspection and on to bigger and better things, and buy you more time to worry about this pesky ground.

[bwader]

If I can find a set that are cheap then that would be a great idea. Hopefully the wiring harness will work and I won't need to. That's good to know

[bwader]

I tested a brand new 3.4 watt 14volt mini bulb ohms I got 5.5ohms not 42? it was on the 200 ohms scale

[alantf]

using the formula : power (watts)= volts X amps, and transposing this formula: 3.4/14 gives 0.243 amps

Using the formula power (watts) = I²R, i.e. 3.4 = 0.243² X R, i.e. 3.4 = 0.06 X R, and transposing this formula, 3.4/0.06 = 56?

You got 5.5?. so the numbers pan out, so I reckon you've just got the decimal point in the wrong place. :2tup:

[Fawlty]

using the formula : power (watts)= volts X amps, and transposing this formula: 3.4/14 gives 0.243 amps

Using the formula power (watts) = I²R, i.e. 3.4 = 0.243² X R, i.e. 3.4 = 0.06 X R, and transposing this formula, 3.4/0.06 = 56?

You got 5.5?. so the numbers pan out, so I reckon you've just got the decimal point in the wrong place. :2tup:


Brilliant!!! That's blown my cosmic mind.

[bwader]

no math its just what my meter said 5.5 or 5.6 ohms on the lowest ohms scale of 200. Same setting I have been using on all the other grounds too.

But that would mean that may meter is off on other readings too. If this is true then the very best ohms reading on grounds of 0.3 or 0.4 ohms means 30 or 40 ohms for the best ground.

The math sounds and looks right I had some of those math questions in the nuclear navy school I went to years ago(I didn't make it through, I was a machinist mate because I score higher on mechanical stuff on the ASVAB test)......most I remember is V= IR voltage is equal to I times Resistance and then rearrange to figure other ways.

[mole2]

The only tie between the right and left directionals is the indicator bulb. That is why the problem goes away when you remove the bulb. The same problem arises when you have a single indicator bulb and convert your directionals to LED lights. The circuit resistance changes cause both sides to flash. There is a fix for this problem that will probably work in your case. it is to convert the indicator bulb socket to a straight plus/neg. It involves diodes and some wiring. On page 126 of the J&P Cycles catalogue they sell a ready made kit to convert the socket. It's only $8 plus shipping and little bit of splicing. I converted my rear lights on the VStar to LED and will have to install this kit if/when I do the front. Link is below. It is in the lower right hand side of the pages.

Diode Kit for Metric Cruisers (http://www.jpcycles.com/catalog/2012cruisercatalog/?entrypage=126)


:)

[bwader]

Makes sense it should work in my case, the power seems to back feed to the other turn signal. Its weird that I'm just trying to get regular mini bulbs 1.2, 1.7, and 3.4 watt in there and its the same thing. It would make more sense to me if I was trying LED lights.

What I don't understand is on the Chinese 150cc scooter I had, I put in LED bulbs in the rear and higher wattage bulbs in the front to be a little brighter. Headlights were two 25watt bulbs I went to 2 40watt bulbs.

I know in most scooters the headlights are A/C powered meaning they don't come on until you have the bike running. When you turn the key the brake lights and signals work normal even hazard light switch causes both to blink at the same time like it should. Then when you start in up the headlights come on.
Plus side was you didn't have to worry so much about running the battery down leaving the key ON like on a motorcycle where the headlights come on and is D/C powered.

So I'd say in a D/C powered lighting setup everything is a lot more critical to work just right. I miss that scooter I learned so much from it on the Itistheride forum and scootdawg forum over the one year I had it. Though it was a big pain having to tinker a lot and check every little thing, but parts were cheap. A brand new carb. costs about $30 for a 150cc scooter, belt driven, automatic clutch, CVT transmission.
I knew I didn't want to go the Chinese scooter route again after a piston rod went through the engine case despite my changing the oil very often. I didn't want to get a Burgman so I went with the GZ.

[bwader]

I got that cable harness coming in tomorrow so I'll replace that and go from there. But actually I'll try to get a buy a diode and solder it like the directions say with a ground wire. That way I don't waste time and effort taking out my wiring harness just to put in the "new" one. When the diode kit should work.

My woman is telling me to take it to a mechanic because I'm spending so much time on it. I'd rather try DIY and spend a lot less money.

My experience with things like this is, I'd take it there and leave it for them to look at it, then they will tell me I need to buy some high priced parts then the cost of labor to fix it. Then find out they did something very simple and are charging me a lot anyway.

This is mainly car mechanics at some shops, I can't really say for motorcycle mechanics.

[bwader]

Instructions to that Diode kit.

http://www.jpcycles.com/instructions/pdf/ZZ38200.pdf

A diode would be like a check valve in a pipe, allows flow in only one direction. Though a mechanical check valve is known to have a little back flow until fully seated shut.

So as I understand it, with a diode and a ground at the turn signal indicator bulb connection it will allow flow only to the turn signal selected and still light up the indicator bulb. Without that annoying problem I have.

[alantf]

If you look at my drawing of the circuit, you'll see that with the switch in one position, power flows throught the warning light, left to right. With the switch in the other position, power flows right to left. So where do you put the diode? :??: :cry: There's no ground terminal at the warning light.

[mole2]

If you look at my drawing of the circuit, you'll see that with the switch in one position, power flows throught the warning light, left to right. With the switch in the other position, power flows right to left. So where do you put the diode? :??: :cry: There's no ground terminal at the warning light.

Correct. With the kit you are putting a diode on each feed and creating a "Y" connection. This will feed the positive 12v to one side of the light socket and not backfeed on the opposite circuit. You then add a ground to the opposite side of the socket and the bulb socket acts like a plain old bulb socket.


:)

[alantf]

So long as you get the current flow (value) correct, so that the flasher unit functions correctly, and also shows up any fault in the circuit (as it's designed to do)

[mole2]

So long as you get the current flow (value) correct, so that the flasher unit functions correctly, and also shows up any fault in the circuit (as it's designed to do)

I know what you're saying. But when he takes the bulb out both circuits (left and right) work correctly. One of the four bulbs could be wrong or internally damaged. Since they work correctly he can use the diode kit to isolate one side from the other and still have his indicator. It is also reversable.


:)

[5th_bike]

Instructions to that Diode kit.

http://www.jpcycles.com/instructions/pdf/ZZ38200.pdf

A diode would be like a check valve in a pipe, allows flow in only one direction. Though a mechanical check valve is known to have a little back flow until fully seated shut.

So as I understand it, with a diode and a ground at the turn signal indicator bulb connection it will allow flow only to the turn signal selected and still light up the indicator bulb. Without that annoying problem I have.

Exactly. Actually the kit has two diodes, one at each red wire, one for the left side and one for the right side. That should do the trick !! Hope it works.

One word of caution - the diode kit instuctions specifically say that they are for LED indicator bulbs, which are a lower wattage than the regular indicator bulb.
The diodes may not be rated for the 3.4W indicator bulb. If they should burn on you (the bulb will give a little or no flash, and then appear dead) go to Radio Shack and buy two of their diodes.

[bwader]

I went to radio shack yesterday and got 2 12volt diodes zener type. I messaged a friend and he said he said that's the kind I don't want to use. Zener type "leak" by is what I got out of it.

So I'm going back there and getting a different type. That was the only 12volt type they had. But there is one for higher voltage I'll try it. A lot of the diodes in the drawers couldn't handle 3.4watts.
So I'm going to get the higher voltage rated one. I don't have too much choice unless I drive more miles to get to a different one.

[bwader]

I found out also my GE2425 multimeter reads 0.3 ohms when I test the testers together. So I just subtract 0.3 from readings now.

I watched that video where the guy uses 2 LEDs and a 1 Kilo ohm resistor and the broken bulb in the socket.

I'm going to radioshack and getting some diodes and trying different ones if need be. I'm using the same 3.4watt bulb so its just putting in the 2 diodes in the one side of the wire and 2 wires to the harness.

Question? Which wire to which part of the harness?

Yesterday I had the new ground wire to a splice to the ground wire in the headlight. Then I had one diode wire to the left side turn signal wires and the other to the right side.

I'm not sure of which wire it should be one of the two wires on the turn signals or what.

Directions just say "2 red wires to the wiring harness" very vague. I don't want to get it wrong.

[alantf]

[attachment=0:1gkg46dd]3.jpg[/attachment:1gkg46dd]

These are the diodes that I use for 12v work. The code on them is IN4007 DC. They look big in the picture, but they're actually about 5 millimetres long.

[bwader]

the ones I just got are 50volt rated and are the same colors, the black and gray. They are IN4001 if I remember right. I didn't have too much choice it was that or higher voltage diodes.

[bwader]

So I tried it out I cut the socket off and wired ground to the green wire and the 2 diodes and black on the other wire.

I did it both ways with the diodes both going either direction. Both same direction.

I tried all the combinations for connecting the 2 diode wires to the harness: All grounds, Right light green and left to brown, Right light green and Left to black. Then all the other combinations between the right dark green and light green and left brown and black wires.

Same problem or worse.....no signal lights. I've had where I had just right side and no left blinker. No left and just right side.

Signal indicator light on and both on. All sorts of combinations, but no fix to my problem.

On the socket wires I tried with and without the bulb. I even bought the 1kilo ohm resistor and 2 LED's to put together if I got it to work.

Socket wires I had the ground side connected the signals wouldn't work. Mind you I tried all sorts of combinations of moving wires around. It just doesn't work for me

On the diode side of the socket wire I wired and soldered the 2 diodes in parallel then a wire going to each Left or Right side wires I mentioned earlier.

I tried even just having the 2 diodes just go off the signal indicator socket wire and to their wires so it would be the same as just making a Y with the 2 diode wires going to the harness.

So now I'm to my other plan. So far I removed my original wire harness and I am putting in the used 2005 GZ wiring harness I bought off Ebay for $22. Had to take a break its getting dark where I am its 7pm eastern time. So I'll be putting up my 6 foot 3 bulb lamp so I can finish and still see outside.

Also I didn't mention my rear engine ground I moved it from behind the front sprocket cover on the engine on a long bolt- to the right side on an engine bolt and I get 0.3 ohms on it and my other ohms reading went down too. Its a lot easier to get to. I had to take off the sprocket cover to and use a long screw drive socket to get to it before. Even after this I still have the same problem- alternating turn signals.

So hopefully, hopefully infinity.....this harness works this time. Only other thing I haven't tried is trying a brand new Denso turn signal Relay that's next to the fuse box. This has been the biggest pain just to fix this dumb ass problem

[5th_bike]

OK here is how to hook up the diodes:

Put the two diodes in series between the two wires coming from the harness to the indicator bulb. Make sure that the sides with the white circles (the white circle on the diode's bodies) are closest together.

If this is your diode, and it conducts current to the right, the white circle should be on the right side:
-----###|----
where "-###|-" = diode, and "------" = wire, and "|" is the white circle.


When you're done, it should look like this:
(left from harnass)-------###|------x-----|###------(right from harnass)

At the "x", connect one wire to the indicator bulb. The other wire from the indicator bulb goes to ground:
x--------(bulb)-------(ground)

PLease note that you don't have to specifically worry which wire comes from the left or the right. Because the diodes conduct electricity downstream from both sides. To the bulb.

[alantf]

I reckon it'd work better with separate warning lights for left & right blinkers, but that's not how the GZ works. Let's see if the new harness works, without this "fix". It seems awfully complicated, when I'm still convinced that it's a ground problem. If the fault is found, there's no way this diode set up is needed. That's not the way everybody else's signals work. :??:

[bwader]

I replaced the wire harness and same thing. I know at least that's not the problem.
I took the rear fender off enough to see better and saw on the left side there is an exposed wire going to the left turn signal. On that side grounds measure 1.0 to .9 ohms. It was late last night at 10pm so I packed stuff up.

[bwader]

OK here is how to hook up the diodes:

Put the two diodes in series between the two wires coming from the harness to the indicator bulb. Make sure that the sides with the white circles (the white circle on the diode's bodies) are closest together.

If this is your diode, and it conducts current to the right, the white circle should be on the right side:
-----###|----
where "-###|-" = diode, and "------" = wire, and "|" is the white circle.


When you're done, it should look like this:
(left from harnass)-------###|------x-----|###------(right from harnass)

At the "x", connect one wire to the indicator bulb. The other wire from the indicator bulb goes to ground:
x--------(bulb)-------(ground)

PLease note that you don't have to specifically worry which wire comes from the left or the right. Because the diodes conduct electricity downstream from both sides. To the bulb.

Ok I think I get it! So only one wire to the indicator bulb because the other wire goes to ground? In this way the "X" ground point gets the current to go to the bulb. And the bulb is grounded.

I think this will be easier than the setup I was trying before.

Yeah in the first place I shouldn't have to go through all this when the wiring is supposed to work normal.

[5th_bike]

You're getting there. The x is not a "ground" point. It is the spot where the one wire to the bulb connects to the two wires from the white-circle sides of the two diodes.
The other wire from the bulb goes to ground.

Just for clarity, note in my "line drawing" the diode on the left points in the opposite direction as the diode on the right. They both only let current flow to the 'x', and not through the other diode. The white circles mark the 'downstream' side of the diodes.

[bwader]

I mis typed or something. But I understand the indicator bulb gets its power from either side signal wire and diodes prevent back fed current and the other end of ind. bulb is grounded.

lost the turn signal cover, and cutting grass. been wanting to do this wiring.

[alantf]

I replaced the wire harness and same thing. I know at least that's not the problem.

So where does that leave us? Did you get lampholders with the harness. If so, we can rule that out of the equation. If you used the original lampholders, that could be the problem. Did you thoroughly check the bulbs, sufficiently to rule that out? Unfortunately, I can't tell EXACTLY what you've done, or not done, when replacing the harness. This seems like one time I'd need a hands on approach to assess the problem, but one thing's for sure, you're doing something wrong. I don't mean that in a nasty way, but something's out of synch, and, apart from ground faults, I can't begin to fathom it out any further over the computer. :)

[bwader]

Same bulb sockets just the main harness is different from original. I just meant the main harness IE the headlamp plug and both leads to turn signals all the way to the end which is the ground to the negative terminal to the battery, brake light, and plugs to starter, the fuse box itselt and rear signal lead.

I used the same turn signal relay. and its the same turn signals and bulbs.

I taped up an exposed wire inside the rear fender going to the rear left turn signal "arm". I'll take off that "arm" next, the wiring looked intact but I'll check it again.

Earlier today I checked ohms from the turn signal indicator wires and its still 1.1 ohms.

It would be really nice if one of you guys lived A LOT closer to me to help out. I'm at the end of my patience with this, I could try getting local help from someone off craigslist, I found some pretty good guitar players that way. Too bad I don't have any buddies who still live in my area with electrical or motorcycle know how.

Yep, can only do so much from text on a computer screen.

[bwader]

A thought I had was to hook up a diode in between the two signal wires on both sides to prevent feedback.

The way I did was tested it with wrapping wire around one turn signal lead on both sides like explained above to a diode with current flowing to the signal indicator bulb and other wire of bulb to ground. It lit up this way and could get it to blink like normal by changing the wiring.
Putting diodes in between the wires would keep current flowing just to the turn signals.

The very first day I had my bike inspected, the other car mechanic mentioned he had a friend who wired his turn signals with toggle switched.

[mole2]

A thought I had was to hook up a diode in between the two signal wires on both sides to prevent feedback.

The way I did was tested it with wrapping wire around one turn signal lead on both sides like explained above to a diode with current flowing to the signal indicator bulb and other wire of bulb to ground. It lit up this way and could get it to blink like normal by changing the wiring.
Putting diodes in between the wires would keep current flowing just to the turn signals.

The very first day I had my bike inspected, the other car mechanic mentioned he had a friend who wired his turn signals with toggle switched.

Why don't you just order that ready made adaptor from J&P Cycles and wire it in. There is no current draw involved other than the indicator bulb. The right side wire and the left side wire get wired to the wires with the dioes and the "Y" configuration gets hooked up to one side of the socket and the ground to the other. It changes the setup from a metric setup to a US type setup is all it does. You'd be done right now and happily riding instead of working on the bike.


:)

[bwader]

Why don't you just order that ready made adaptor from J&P Cycles and wire it in. There is no current draw involved other than the indicator bulb. The right side wire and the left side wire get wired to the wires with the dioes and the "Y" configuration gets hooked up to one side of the socket and the ground to the other. It changes the setup from a metric setup to a US type setup is all it does. You'd be done right now and happily riding instead of working on the bike.


:)

Yeah riding it right now with an inspection sticker would be great. I'll order it, its just 8 bucks. I tried making my own to save on some time, but now its been days after that. But anyhow I'll try it, then go from there

[mole2]

Yeah riding it right now with an inspection sticker would be great. I'll order it, its just 8 bucks. I tried making my own to save on some time, but now its been days after that. But anyhow I'll try it, then go from there

Anything yet?


:)

[mole2]

Hmmmm...leaving us hanging. lol


:)

[5th_bike]

Hope he's OK.

[bwader]

My internet has been out for a couple weeks and my phone isn't "smart" enough to post but I can read this page from it.

Anyway, That diode kit mention before from J&P cycles I couldn't get it to work.

But, even better news is I found out that in Virginia where I live and North Carolina where I am close to.....Motorcycles DO NOT NEED TURN SIGNALS! But if they are installed they must work! So I took the front and rear signals off with no lens for the turn signal indicator light too.

It passed! He told me I just need new front brake pads and not to forget.

I got home and put the turn signals back on and now I am not so frustrated and I rode to and from my work 2 days so far. About 40 miles roundtrip so 80 miles so far.

I haven't had any other problems just feel so much better being able to ride legally now. I did a max speed test on my local highway rode and got up to 66mph on GPS. Which is great for me I don't need speeding tickets and don't have much traffic to deal with on my route. Also I weigh 240 pounds.

This GZ is sooo much better than that 150cc china scooter I had and top speed was 55-58mph gps. I had 65mpg on a 1.6 gallon tank. Now I have a 2.9 gallons before reserve and I had to fill up every 2 days or 90 miles on that scooter.
I'm anxious to ride a few more trips to/from work to see what my gas mileage will be. I have about 5 miles of 55mph road then the rest 15miles on a trip is 45mph or less.
On my Sentra I get 32-36mpg and have maintained 40mpg hypermiling for a whole week.
When I get some more time I need to try that diode kit again, but I got my front disc brakes on my car and GZ to do first.

[bwader]

s

[bwader]

I didn't mean to have this on more than once. Sorry

[mole2]

My internet has been out for a couple weeks and my phone isn't "smart" enough to post but I can read this page from it.

Anyway, That diode kit mention before from J&P cycles I couldn't get it to work.

But, even better news is I found out that in Virginia where I live and North Carolina where I am close to.....Motorcycles DO NOT NEED TURN SIGNALS! But if they are installed they must work! So I took the front and rear signals off with no lens for the turn signal indicator light too.

It passed! He told me I just need new front brake pads and not to forget.

I got home and put the turn signals back on and now I am not so frustrated and I rode to and from my work 2 days so far. About 40 miles roundtrip so 80 miles so far.

I haven't had any other problems just feel so much better being able to ride legally now. I did a max speed test on my local highway rode and got up to 66mph on GPS. Which is great for me I don't need speeding tickets and don't have much traffic to deal with on my route. Also I weigh 240 pounds.

This GZ is sooo much better than that 150cc china scooter I had and top speed was 55-58mph gps. I had 65mpg on a 1.6 gallon tank. Now I have a 2.9 gallons before reserve and I had to fill up every 2 days or 90 miles on that scooter.
I'm anxious to ride a few more trips to/from work to see what my gas mileage will be. I have about 5 miles of 55mph road then the rest 15miles on a trip is 45mph or less.
On my Sentra I get 32-36mpg and have maintained 40mpg hypermiling for a whole week.
When I get some more time I need to try that diode kit again, but I got my front disc brakes on my car and GZ to do first.

Ok. Maybe I can help you to get the kit from J&P to work. Lay out the "Y" harness you got from J&P so that one of the wires with the diode is to your left and one of the wires with a diode is to your right. Cut the wire on the left that "feeds" the indicator socket and attach it to the wire with the diode on the left. Next cut the wire on the right that "feeds" the indicator socket and attach it to the wire with the diode on the right. Now you have the indicator socket with two wires on it. Connect the remaining wire on the J&P harness that has no diode to one side of the wires on the indicator socket. It doesn't matter which one. That will now be the 12v feed to the socket. Connect the remaining wire on the indicator socket to a ground. Put the bulb in and all should work correctly. Let us know how you make out.


:)