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Goose51683
05-10-2013, 03:31 PM
I'm working on my first bobber project...on my first bike.

So far I'm loving it, I'm muddling through some of the things I want to do but heres what I have so far.

I removed the fenders, and lowered the bars. I replaced the taillights and signals with LED strips. I want to swap the exhaust out and install an open air-air filter and remove the panels behind the engine as well as giving it a flat black paint job and removing/painting all the chrome to match. I'd also like one of those nice whitewalls in the back. I've shamelessly stolen most of these ideas from other bobbers I've seen on here so if anyone has any other good ideas I could glean I'd like to hear them.

Rookie Rider
05-12-2013, 09:54 PM
Get a peanut tank.......... It just looks like a typical gz without fenders, go crazy dude !!

jonathan180iq
05-13-2013, 09:23 AM
Looking good. Love the color.

northsidegz
05-13-2013, 12:37 PM
Lookin' nice!

Goose51683
05-13-2013, 01:35 PM
Thanks guys. Any recommendations for where to find a tank?

Goose51683
05-13-2013, 01:54 PM
Also I want to lower the front end. Anyone know any good threads for that?

jonathan180iq
05-13-2013, 04:49 PM
Lowering the front fender is easy if you own a drill. It's two 10mm nuts on each side holding it onto the forks.

Determine how much you want to lower it and drill two new holes in the appropriate place, slightly higher up on the fender inner wall. Measure accurately or it will look lopsided. Then just re-install and it should be good. Measure twice and cut once. It you lower it too much, you might get some rubbing.

People have also shaved the fender to better align with the shape of the tire. It all becomes really clear once you remove that sucker. I can't find any photos at the moment though.

EDIT: Harley peanut tank
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=4779&hilit=harley+tank (http://www.gz250bike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=4779&hilit=harley+tank)

blaine
05-13-2013, 05:06 PM
I think he may mean lowering the bike on the forks.(loosen the pinch bolts & let the fork tubes slide up).
:cool: :)

jonathan180iq
05-13-2013, 06:00 PM
Derp.....
http://chan.konata.cz/b/src/133642309685.jpg

Goose51683
05-14-2013, 08:23 AM
Thanks guys. I was looking more to lower the bike on the forks, but I appreciate the information on shortening them as well. I'm really enjoying changing anything and everything I have the ability to so I'm sure I will end up trying both if these.

Has anyone wrapped their exhaust? Any idea how much wrap it takes.

jonathan180iq
05-14-2013, 09:13 AM
Search through some of the other bobber threads. It's been done a few times. Maybe you can message the guys who did it and get their take. They usually aren't the most active, oddly enough.

Goose51683
05-14-2013, 09:20 AM
Probably too busy riding those beautiful bikes.

Water Warrior 2
05-15-2013, 06:37 PM
Loosen one fork at a time to lower the front end. I would suggest 1 inch for a starting point. Loosen the first fork and pump the front end. Measure the first fork and tighten down securely. Loosen the other fork and pump the front end a little to help the fork tube rise to an equal amount. Be sure both forks measure the same amount of rise when you are done.
The rear can be lowered a bit with Kawasaki 125 rear shocks. We had an older Lady rider some time ago who was quite short and this helped her a lot.
Have fun but remember you will loose cornering clearance.

Goose51683
05-21-2013, 01:45 PM
Thanks Water Warrior.

I added a new slip on exhaust last night and an open air filter. I need to jet the carb still, hopefully that will happen tonight.

I have a new set of bars to install as well but I couldn't get the left hand grip off of my old bars. Any suggestions?

Water Warrior 2
05-21-2013, 03:57 PM
Thanks Water Warrior.

I added a new slip on exhaust last night and an open air filter. I need to jet the carb still, hopefully that will happen tonight.

I have a new set of bars to install as well but I couldn't get the left hand grip off of my old bars. Any suggestions?

If you are replacing the grip then just cut it lengthways and peel it off.
If you intend to reuse it the method is almost as easy.
First thing is to remove the bar end if you haven't already. "Remember" to only loosen the screw in the end of the barend(4 or 5 turns) and wiggle it out of the bar. NEVER remove the screw completely.
Next you have to insert a thin screw driver or other device under the grip. My fav is an antique ice pick that nearly predates the use of fire. A length of wire coat hanger will do also. Squirt in some WD-40 to loosen the glue and rotate the ice pick etc around the bar after the glue has softened a bit. This should allow the grip to come free with a little twisting and pulling.
Clean off the mess and the inside of the grip.
The grip can be re-installed using hair spray or paint as an adhesive. Allow to dry and ride on down the road.

jonathan180iq
05-22-2013, 09:37 AM
:plus1: for hairspray. It's the best and comes off easier in the future than glue.

If you have an air compressor, a blast of air under the lifted piece of grip can work wonders.

Goose51683
05-22-2013, 12:49 PM
Thanks guys. I was able to get the grips off last night and got everything switched to the new bars. The brake and clutch are a little awkward because of the nearly straight bars but riding in this morning I think its something I can handle.

I did have another question for you all. I added a slip on exhaust, I think I may have ordered a pipe size to large because their is a bit of space around the fitting and the exhaust pipe. I used generic gasket material which I realized shortly afterwards would not handle the heat. I can't return the exhaust but I know there has to be gasket material out there that will handle the heat. Any suggestions?

Goose51683
05-22-2013, 12:53 PM
Hey again. Here is where I am so far with this project.

I still need to wrap the exhaust and cut the bars off the back, as well as cut off all the tabs inside.

alantf
05-22-2013, 01:04 PM
Many years ago, when car exhausts were made of easily rusting mild steel, there was a "putty" that was used to repair them. It set rock hard with the heat. you may still be able to get it at an auto store.

Goose51683
05-22-2013, 01:54 PM
Thanks Alantf. Any idea what that would be called or should I just look for exhaust putty.

jonathan180iq
05-22-2013, 01:59 PM
You can use this stuff that I like called QuickSteel. It's a putty that becomes semi permanent.

Better than that, though, would be to get an exhaust reducer and just use some lawnmower exhaust gasket material (Ace of any local lawnmower shop should carry it. It comes in varying thicknesses). Clamp the properly sized reducer onto your factory header and then attach the other end to your slip on. That'll work and you won't have to find a specially sized exhaust coupler gasket.

They look like this:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//N4066A/large/5600162_pef_548507_pri_larg.jpg

EDIT: I would not completely remove the rear fender bars. If that's the look you are going for, and you know what you are doing, that's one thing. But retaining those and just reducing the profile of the rear fender itself will still give you look that you want plus some protection from the elements. Until you have never ridden on wet pavement without a rear fender, you won't fully appreciate why I am saying this. ;) (rooster tail)
Not only that, you're resale value will stay higher if you don't mess with the frame.

Goose51683
05-22-2013, 02:23 PM
Thats true Jonathan but I am wanting to also add a larger rear wheel. I started riding in early March and took the fender off shortly afterwards so I'm used to the rooster tail at this point.

Thanks for the exhaust advice. Unfortunately, I live in a small rural town with only a small hardware store so until I make a trip I will have to see what I can find.

jonathan180iq
05-22-2013, 02:35 PM
Do you have an auto parts store or even a local muffler shop? They should be able to fab you something for cheap.

If I only had raw materials, I would get come galvanized tubing, slit it down one side and create a cone of proper diameters on each end and then weld it in place. Add some high heat, anti-rust paint to both inside and out and live with it until you get something better in the future. :)

alantf
05-22-2013, 02:42 PM
Thanks Alantf. Any idea what that would be called or should I just look for exhaust putty.

I'm afraid that I'm not in America, so I don't know what it's sold as there, but I think that if you ask for "exhaust repair putty" they'll know what you mean.....Especially if it's an old guy in the store :whistle: Us old guys used to have to do lots of repairs when cars were "rot boxes"

Goose51683
05-22-2013, 03:49 PM
Well I think I will be fab'in up my own exhaust here before to long. Everything out there is just to "normal" for my taste. I will look for that putty to make it thru until I get something made.

Goose51683
06-04-2013, 04:14 PM
Just went to a 130 jet last night. Bike is running well but I need to run through a couple more jets to see what works best. Gotta take it one day at a time since I'm a little shy on time. As soon as I get that right feel I'll tune the rest of the carb.

I have exhaust wrap in the mail and a gearbox breather to install as well. Check back soon for some new pics.

jonathan180iq
06-04-2013, 04:27 PM
Just remember, main jet affects top end more than anything. Give it full thottle and see how she responds. If she feels set in, then you're good.

Most people throw in a 140 main and call it a day. You can test that next if you aren't satisfied with the 130, but I prefer the "dialed in" method that you're using.

Goose51683
06-04-2013, 04:39 PM
Since this is my first bike are there any other indications of to much gas/too much air. I will be trying a bigger jet tonight though. I haven't felt any kind of improvement with the 130.

I have an open air filter, a new exhaust and will have the headers wrapped as well (I hear that can increase airflow as well).

jonathan180iq
06-05-2013, 11:39 AM
So you've already opened the air filter and you have a custom exhaust? I would start at 135-140. To my knowledge, no one has used anything larger than a 145.

What you'll feel with a lean mixture is basically a flat or dead spot in acceleration or the bike simply won't pull anymore. I would use 3rd gear and just open her up and see how she responds. If she kind of dies when you gun it, then you need to move up. If she pulls steady, then you're good. If she starts to pull and then bogs down, then you're too rich and you need to back off.

jonathan180iq
06-05-2013, 01:30 PM
... a new exhaust and will have the headers wrapped as well (I hear that can increase airflow as well).

Wrapping the headers does nothing but promote rust, really. The idea is to help with cooling, and that's true of the super production bikes, but it won't make a lick of difference for the GZ. The wrap will trap moisture and your head pipes will rust faster than normal. If you're doing it for aesthetic reasons, that's all good. But it's not going to change air flow. If you go with a completely open exhaust (ie, no baffles) then you'll want to go ahead and drop in that 140 most likely.

It's ok to be a little rich (more fuel) as this will keep temps down.
It' not really ok to be too lean (more air). A very lean setting will fry your valves and just generate more heat than you want in general.

Goose51683
06-06-2013, 07:51 AM
Thanks Jon, I am wrapping for aesthetics more than anything. Right now I get a dead spot but it's lower in the throttle like around the 1/4-1/2 open. I have a 140 in right now and I'm getting to about 72mph. I was thinking about trying a 142.5 just to see if their is any difference. if not I'll probably drop back to the 140. I am pretty happy with it.

Now comes tuning the rest of the carb.

jonathan180iq
06-06-2013, 09:11 AM
Keep the 140 for right now.

That 1/4-1/2 (and probably up to 3/4) flat spot, indicates that you need to richen up your midrange, which is controlled by the needle.

Basically, you are going to pull the black top cover of your carb and raise the needle jet. There are two types of carbs for our bikes. Some of them have a little clamping circling that you will simply move down one or two notches on the needle. The other kind requires that you add some tiny little washers to raise the needle. Either way, it's pretty easy.

Pull the diaphragm cover and see which kind you have. If you have the kind where you have to raise it yourself, then swing over to the home depot and get some little washers, IIRC, they were size #6 #8. Just really thin machine washers.



Follow this link for some more help: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=15&hilit=raise+your+needle (http://www.gz250bike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=15&hilit=raise+your+needle)

Here is a photo of my 2006 needle:
http://i41.tinypic.com/fkwugk.jpg

Goose51683
06-07-2013, 09:29 AM
Okay, heres a little update with a pic.

I got a 140 jet in the carb, seems to be running pretty well. I wrapped the exhaust last night. I have yet to chop the bars in the back but despite the downsides I think it's going to happen eventually.

So that's where I am and here is a quick pic I took this morning.

Also, I don't remember if I mentioned that I made a side mount plate holder out of plexiglass last week. Well I noticed today that it is no longer on my bike, apparently my design wasn't robust enough, luckily I only had a paper plate on at the time. Needless to say, that will be my next project.

Goose51683
06-07-2013, 09:31 AM
Jon,

THanks for the image. That'll also be on the list for this weekend.

jonathan180iq
06-07-2013, 10:56 AM
For your plate holder, Home Depot has some easy to use aluminum flashing. It's sturdy enough to hold up to the vibrations but easy enough to bend by hand without slicing your palms open.

And, no problem man. Once you get it right, you'll really enjoy it.

I do have to admit that I like the look of that wrap. It's like a Sandpeople Speederbike from Star Wars. :)

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/3/3e/Tuskenraider.jpg/250px-Tuskenraider.jpg

Goose51683
06-07-2013, 10:58 AM
Well that wasn't exactly what I was going for but their are worse comparisons.

I mean really, who doens't love Star wars. now I just need a couple of those pole/spear things for forks!

Goose51683
06-07-2013, 11:17 AM
Next question, any recommendations for where to get a seat, and some mounts for my mirrors that stick off the end of the bars.

jonathan180iq
06-07-2013, 11:27 AM
It's not a negative comparison! I like it!

(I'm a little surprised that this has turned into only a two person conversation? Where the Hell is everybody?)

There is only one real option on the forum for a seat, and it's a Harley springer. You'll only have to make a couple of slight adjustments to it. There is a how-to if you want to do a search.

Some of our long-gone members spent countless hours and some of their own money testing and purchasing factory seats that we surmised would be direct replacements for our bike... those all turned out to be frivolous endeavors. (Here's a pint for Sarris)

And for bar-end mirrors, I had some for a while before I sold the bike. I think I got them on Ebay. Just the cheapest stuff I could find. Do a search for 7/8" bar-end mirrors and you'll be on your way. (They may also carry these for off-road bikes or ATVs at your local dirtbike shop.)

jonathan180iq
06-07-2013, 11:29 AM
...A star wars themed bike would be amazing...








This is awesome too, though
http://i46.tinypic.com/2q1dsa0.jpg

Goose51683
06-07-2013, 02:53 PM
Throw a couple wheels on that baby and you've got a ride!

Yeah this place has gotten pretty quiet lately. Lots of good content but a little low on the participation.

I figured I would have to modify a seat to get it to fit. There is nothing aftermarket for these bikes but that is kind of what I enjoy. It makes me really work on the bike, not just bolt on another part.

Makes it a true reflection of me....which also means it's pretty half assed...HAHA

mbeeler
06-08-2013, 12:45 AM
I agree pretty quite.

Liking what you have done so far. I am really missing working on mine. My schedule has been so busy not been able to get into the garage.

I did get in to my local parts store to get a few parts only to find out they can not get anything for my bike. Guess I am going to have to order online need a oil filter and then a few seals to fix some leaks on the engine. Once those are done I think I will be pretty set for my modifications. I need to find pipe to make my exhaust and then do a custom rear fender.

Mine is basically sitting as a rolling chassis right now.

Goose51683
06-08-2013, 09:11 AM
mbeeler- so far nearly everything i have done outsite of the carb and the oil filter has had to be "modified".

I've had to be mechanically creative to get a lot of things done. If you have a welder it would probably make everything a lot easier.

I look forward to seeing the changes you make. Make sure to post pics for all of us to see.

Goose51683
06-11-2013, 10:19 AM
Well I needed a license plate holder since my plexiglass one didn't quite hold up and I'm either to cheap or self reliant to buy one so that was my project last night

I bought some kind of framing bracket from the hardware store, cut it, drilled it, painted it and mounted to the back of my bike last night. So far I think it looks alright and it appears to be pretty solid.

What you do all think?

Tomcat13t
06-12-2013, 04:51 AM
That looks like it will hold. :tup: Nothing wrong with saving some $$$

Goose51683
06-12-2013, 07:44 AM
I prefer to be cheap but I say I'm "Making the bike my own by creating my own parts". It sounds way better than "I'm a tightwad" haha.

The first plate holder was made of plexiglass that I cut down and glued together. I'm not sure how long it lasted because one day I looked down and it simply wasn't there anymore. Hence the upgrade to steel.

Goose51683
06-15-2013, 08:04 PM
Aaahhhh!!!!

I took out te needle for the carb adjustment above and didn't have the notched style needle so I placed some washer under it, which were a bitch to find in this tiny town. But I did and I installed them, out everything back the way it was and now my bike won't start. It'll turn over but it sounds like there is no actual ignitions. It won't even try. I so I put everything bak the way it was and the issue is the same. I'll post pictures of everything in a little while. Maybe someone can see my mistake. Until I figure it out I am dead in the water.

Goose51683
06-16-2013, 10:34 PM
Disaster averted. On day 3 of looking over the carb I found that I had pulled the hose off the back of the petcock valve. Reattached and we were all good. For those who don't know what I'm talking about ill include a pic. It's not a great pic but this is the little hose directly behind your fuel source selector.

Goose51683
06-16-2013, 10:46 PM
So after the carb issue was addressed I moved onto the other projects this weekend. Blacked out the covers at the top of the motor, added an extension to the air filter and added a gearbox filter ( located on the other side tapped into the blacked out cover)

Here's the pics. Can't wait for some feedback!

Rookie Rider
06-17-2013, 01:27 AM
Black out the bottom of the forks too, i always liked that look.

Goose51683
06-17-2013, 08:14 AM
Thats the plan Rookie but riding in this morning I noticed I still have carb issues. I am getting a lot of sputtering from 1/4-1/2 throttle, and again at 3/4-full throttle.

I'm not sure if this means I'm getting to much fuel or to much air, I am guessing it's fuel so I may step down a jet size but I'm hoping to get some advice on here first.

Goose51683
06-18-2013, 09:35 AM
After several carb dissassemblies I apparently did something right...no idea what but its running a bit better. I am still getting sputtering but it is right around 1/4 throttle but no longer at full throttle. I did drop down to a 135 jet.

Next step tonight will be adjusting the low end screw on the carb. other than drilling out the screw this sounds pretty straight forward....but so did everything else.

Goose51683
06-18-2013, 09:35 AM
After several carb disassemblies I apparently did something right...no idea what but its running a bit better. I am still getting sputtering but it is right around 1/4 throttle but no longer at full throttle. I did drop down to a 135 jet.

Next step tonight will be adjusting the low end screw on the carb. other than drilling out the screw this sounds pretty straight forward....but so did everything else.

Goose51683
06-20-2013, 03:04 PM
Lot has happened in the past couple days.

First I figured out what was wrong with the carb and I feel like an idiot. Apparently then you put the plastic piece that backs the needle in you have to push it in there pretty tight. I wasn't doing that and therefore I was getting to much fuel into the carb hence the sputter. So I fixed that and it runs like a champ.

The very next day I learned a valuable lesson about ensuring that EVERYTHING is secure on your bike. apparently at one time or another I forgot to tighten the air filter onto the back of the carb...considering I took it off and on about 3 dozen times...anyways. The air filter came off, apparently went between the frame and the wheel and knocked off one of the fuse blocks. This isn't normal but since I relocated all the electrical it was right in the line of fire. Flash forward to me on the side of the road walking back and forth trying to find the remains of my air filter and the fuse block. I found the fuse block which amazingly was still in good shape. I popped it back on and was able to start the bike up. I was forced to ride the bike back home with no air filter, which I know is horrible but there was no choice.

So I get the bike home and scour the town for an air filter....nothing, anywhere. So I know I have to get an air filter on there so I jury rig, glue, hose clamp and zip tie the old original air filter into a position that will fit the carb directly. So that is installed and we are all good. Actually I like the look of it and the thought of recycling the old parts is nice too.

Next day I received a couple bar end mirrors which I installed and I think they look great. I'll attach a couple pics here shortly.

So now you are all up to date.

Goose51683
06-21-2013, 09:00 AM
Here are the latest images of my bike.

jonathan180iq
06-25-2013, 09:54 AM
This is looking good, man.

How is your ticking problem coming along?

Goose51683
06-25-2013, 09:59 AM
I think you commented on the other post but for everyone else it's not looking good. The bike ticked then died and now only clunks when I try to start it.

Goose51683
08-29-2013, 08:37 AM
Bike is still dead but while I've all this extra time waiting on parts and figuring out what I'm gonna try next I've made some visual changes. Thought you all might be interested to see.

Granted I've dinged up a lot of what I did while troubleshooting.

Brandelle
10-12-2013, 11:22 PM
I love builds where there's not unlimited resources and people use their own creativity.

Have you thought about removing the reflector that's by the horn?

And do you have to have your front turn signals? It'd clean up the lines just a bit if they were removed.

Good on you for your uniqueness, keep it up. :)

Water Warrior 2
10-13-2013, 05:14 AM
I love builds where there's not unlimited resources and people use their own creativity.

Have you thought about removing the reflector that's by the horn?

And do you have to have your front turn signals? It'd clean up the lines just a bit if they were removed.

Good on you for your uniqueness, keep it up. :)
Signal light and reflector requirements vary from state to state. Best talk to one of your local LEOs. Smile, be nice and you will more info a lot sooner. Best of all is having a riding buddy who is also a cop. Works well for me.

Brandelle
10-13-2013, 11:09 PM
Just looked it up out of curiosity...

http://www.americanmotorcyclist.com/Rig ... stateid=14 (http://www.americanmotorcyclist.com/Rights/State-Laws.aspx?stateid=14)

Goose51683
10-31-2013, 09:00 AM
Sorry I've been gone so long everyone.

Brandelle to answer your question my next step (after getting the damn thing running again) is to replace the front signals with LED strips. I'm going to paint the front forks flat black so the LED strips should blend in pretty well with the forks.

I haven't paid much attention to the reflector and the horn but now that you mention is I should remove it. The horn makes me cringe when I use it so I should probably swap or remove that.

Also, welcome Brandelle, I haven't seen you here yet, but like i said I've been out awhile.