Bike making a sputtering sound with choke on halfway.

[bergstrom25]

Just put on a new petcock and fuel hose, cleaned carb, and new spark plug.

When I start the bike cold I switch it to prime, do I need the choke on full when it's cold? When I let it warm it, I pull it the choke back to about half and the bike makes this sort of sputter sound. Once its warmed up I let off the choke and after a while it runs fine, just wondering why it sputters. Kind of sounds like it's not getting enough fuel. This is my first bike, a 2006, so I'm very new to all this. Any help would be much appreciated!

[Fawlty]

Hi and welcome. You have come to the right place. I haven't been here long, but I do know that there is nothing these guys don't know about these bikes.

You should switch the petcock to ON and keep it there. When cold, fully open the choke, leaving the throttle closed. Wait half a minute, close the choke and you should be good to go.

If you haven't got them already you can download the owners manual and the workshop manual from this forum.

Good luck.

[Water Warrior 2]

Here's what Lynda did to start her GZ when cold.

Full choke, no throttle. As the engine warmed up a little the revs would pick up. She backed off the choke slowly to reduce the revs as it warmed more. Once the choke was fully off the bike was usually good to go.
While waiting for the engine to warm a bit you have a nice little period of time to check all your lights for proper function, put on your helmet and gloves
Usually the first start of the day was the only time the choke was needed.

[mrlmd1]

Once the bike starts, just give it 30-60 sec to run as you put on your gloves and helmet and zip up your jacket, slowly turning down the choke as the revs increase. Then ride off at a moderate speed. Within a half mile-1mile you should be able to turn off the choke completely. Do not sit in the driveway waiting a few min for the bike to warm up - ride it, that's much better.

[jonathan180iq]

:plus1: To all above

[bergstrom25]

Thank you so much for the help. I think i've pinpointed the problem. I don't think the battery is getting enough voltage to the engine. Last night my green neutral light wouldn't turn on when switched in neutral. When I started the bike this morning, it started with a slow chug-chug-chug, got slower, and finally all I could hear was the engine turning. I'm gonna test the battery in a bit, could it be any other electrical problems? Bike's got 13,000 miles on it, so I'm hoping it could be just time for a new battery. I'll keep ya posted.
You all are awesome by the way! :)

[jonathan180iq]

Do you have a voltmeter? Check it and see what you get. If you don't have a battery tender, get one. They're pretty cheap.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic- ... 42292.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-battery-float-charger-42292.html)

[bergstrom25]

No, but my neighbor, who is also by mechanic does. What does the battery tender do? I'm very new to bikes, and I'm very keen on learning.

[jonathan180iq]

A battery tender just keeps the battery charge topped up when the vehicle isn't in use very often.

If he has a volt meter, just touch it to each terminal on the battery and see what reading you get. Should be anywhere from 12.3+ You can also jump start these things from a NON RUNNING car. Just hook up your jumper cables like you would when boosting a car but don't crank the car. It will supply your bike without enough UMPH to get her going, if indeed the battery is the problem.

[mrlmd1]

A fully charged battery will read 12.6-12.8V at rest. It sounds like you have a dead or discharged battery that needs to be charged. If you get the bike started by jumping it from a non-running car or other good 12 V source (battery) do not let it sit idling in the driveway - you will not charge it that way. The bike has a real puny charging system and needs to be run at at least 2500-3500 rpm to get any significant "juice" out of it. Take it out for a half hour or more ride to charge it, or leave it on a max 2 amp charger for 6 hours or so, or on a battery tender, and then try it again.

[bergstrom25]

Recharged the batter and works fine. Only thing is I have a bolt that's broken and has to be tapped on one of the exhaust clamps so I think the chug-chug sound is from the leak. Probably just gonna get a new exhaust/muffler all together. Do I have to get a specific Suzuki exhaust system from the dealership? Or is there a good website for Suzuki parts? I feel like the dealership would be overpriced. Thanks again!!

[jonathan180iq]

The best parts website that I think we all recommend is www.ronayers.com (http://www.ronayers.com). The exhaust system for this bike, however, if like $600 new. It's kinda absurd.

There is a member on here who is currently parting out his whole bike and has been pretty active in looking for takers. I'll send you a link in your "WTB" thread. You can PM him and I'm sure you guys can work something out.

[bergstrom25]

thanks man! I PMed him. Does the muffler have to be the same year of the bike, Or will it work as long as it's for a gz250?

[blaine]

thanks man! I PMed him. Does the muffler have to be the same year of the bike, Or will it work as long as it's for a gz250?
Will work as long as it's for a G.Z. :) :cool:

[bergstrom25]

AWESOME! Thank you all for the help. Hopefully I can find a cheap one in good condition!

[mrlmd1]

I don't understand why you need to buy a whole new exhaust system and muffler just to replace a broken exhaust clamp bolt. Where exactly is this and do you have a pic?

[bergstrom25]

Well, mainly because I'm going on a 3000 mile trip and want everything to be up to the distance. Also, because I have a bolt that broke off which holds on my muffler clamps. You can feel exhaust leaking from the front of the bike (just a tad). So, to tap out the bolt, I would have to take the whole head off. So might as well swap it while the head's off. And the muffler's not in bad shape, but it is weathered. I also lost the baffle somehow,

[GZ250]

once in a while use the highest grade level of gasoline (93 in US). I use 93 now and then (its expensive so just pour a gallon in an almost empty tank) and use gumout additive as it is cheap (half a bottle in full tank) and never had any issue with starting.

I never opened and cleaned my carb...

if bike is sitting for long in cold and rain then gz always takes some time to start and if battery is low on charge it might not start and need a battery tender on battery.

[mrlmd1]

There is absolutely NO benefit to any grade of gasoline higher than regular for the GZ, There are no additives in it that clean carbs or make your engine run any better than what's in regular gas. In fact, the only additives in it are to inhibit combustion, ie. to prevent pre-ignition in a high compression engine for which this gas is designed. Used in a GZ, it will actually have less power, worse gas mileage, and only serve to lighten your wallet. The GZ is a low compression engine and uses regular gas, period. It is a myth that high test, premium fuel is better. That is just wrong, it is meant for high compression engines.
If you want to keep your carb clean, use the bike regularly, and the best advice is to put 1 oz/gal of fuel of either Berryman's B12 Chemtool ($3 a can) or Seafoam ($10 a can) into the fuel tank every three or four fillups.

[jonathan180iq]

*pssst - or MMO http://static.seton.com/media/catalog/product/Marvel-Mystery-Oilreg--Marvel-Mystery-Oils-GG886-th.jpg