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kyraeus
03-23-2013, 02:42 AM
Hi guys,

Kyr here, I'm a new, relatively proud owner of a '99 GZ250 that I picked up locally from a gentleman who'd gotten it in trade for some chopper parts. He didn't have much use for it, so he'd tapped it up on craigslist for about $500. It's a bit beat up, and there's some (hopefully minor) problems, but it seemed a decent deal to me, because I needed a working vehicle, and fast. Here's the rundown:

I got ahold of the original owner of the bike, which was necessary because the current owner had only a signed (not notarized) copy of the original title issued for it. I was taking a chance, but it paid off there. It so happened I JUST started going to kung fu classes with someone who not only was the original owner's kung fu teacher, but also (although unrelated to) share the same last name as the original owner. He told me the story of the bike. Back in '01 when it was last inspected, he'd slid it going over a gravel patch in a parking lot. Messed up his leg pretty bad while in shorts, dented the tank (you can see that in the photos below). After that, he said he basically garaged it, left it sit for awhile. He didn't specify when, but at some point sold it to a buddy, who after one or two other trades ended up with it in the hands of the guy I got it from.

So what I have after all that is a bike with under 2600 original miles on it, about 13 years old or so. Still running, thankfully.

The issues I know about are a problem with the front brake caliper, which was removed when I got it, but included. I'm probably going to just replace that entirely to save any issues. The other thing was that the guy mentioned he couldn't get it to start using the electronic ignition, and was sparking it with a screwdriver over the terminals. Thanks to info on this board, I realized he either had the stand down or wasn't holding the clutch when he tried it. One shot after I got it home, and the ignition switch started it right up. The pipes on it WERE cut and rewelded at one point, poorly. I don't know what they had in mind, but they welded the pipes back on such that the end isn't in place properly to line up to bolt to the frame.

Bike starts good, idles a LITTLE off, but I'm attributing that to the LONG storage and carbs that are probably still a little gummy. I haven't taken anything off really yet, or had time to look at the gas tank inside or anything. I'm a completely green rider, I have my permit, but not my license yet. As far as mechanics, I've worked on cars before, but nothing really serious. With bikes I'm still a bit mystified. So I'm hoping to get a lot of good advice on here from the pros. If I need a little clarification please don't be too hard on me, it's a bit of a jump from simple stuff like changing the brake pads on your '89 CRX to cleaning out the carbs on one of these things.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x248/kyraeus/GZ250/2013-03-22165246_zps3ea72e7d.jpg
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x248/kyraeus/GZ250/2013-03-22165253_zpsb7701f43.jpg
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x248/kyraeus/GZ250/2013-03-22165325_zps010dbed2.jpg
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x248/kyraeus/GZ250/2013-03-22165258_zps483b1ae2.jpg

If anyone has suggestions of what to start off with doing to this bike, first off to get it running in good order and preferably cheaply, and then just for kicks to give better performance overall, or to make it pretty, I'd appreciate it. I'm already looking at running a bottle of gumout through it, although it probably needs a proper carb cleaning which is above me. Additionally, I was considering the 16 tooth sprocket change on the How To's page, as well as possibly a few other minor ones like the light changes/etc or a tach.

Especially if anyone knows how I can EASILY paint or cover up the ugly covers I have on there, I'd appreciate it. Some people were telling me plasti-dip was an option, others said even a simple spray can wouldn't be terrible, or at least better than the blank ones on there now. Otherwise, if you notice anything wrong just on offhand glances or want some detailed pics of areas, let me know. Thanks all!

alantf
03-23-2013, 06:09 AM
Hi there, and welcome to the madhouse.

One thing I've noticed. The exhaust pipe doesn't line up, because it's not an original part. Someone's just welded an aftermarket pipe to the original manifold pipes, so you may have to cut and reweld the bracket.

blaine
03-23-2013, 08:38 AM
Welcome to the forum.SeaFoam or Berryman's B-12 will help clean your carb & may save a tear down.You can get a pretty decent paint job with spray cans.Just be careful if you paint the tank with spray cans any gas will take the paint off,unless you clear coat it with a 2 part "Spraymax" (it is two stage with a hardener in it). You will find that a lot of that surface rust will come right off with a little elbow grease & polish.
:cool: :)

burkbuilds
03-23-2013, 11:26 AM
Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you got a good deal on the bike.

I second the use of a carb cleaner before you decide to break the carbs down. A couple of tanks thru will often clean them up adequately and get your bike running smoothly.

Nothing wrong with spray cans for a project like this. You might be able to "pull" those dents out of the tank using a technique where you super glue a bolt head into the dent then use a piece of steel like a lawnmower blade and bridge over the area with supports on either end of the blade and put a nut on the bolt thru the center hole of the blade and just tighten it up until it pops free. It make take several repetitions to get it all the way out, but no drilling or bondo required. I've had good luck using this method on a couple of tank dents.

Good luck. :2tup:

Rookie Rider
03-23-2013, 11:35 AM
And buy new tires !!

mole2
03-23-2013, 04:05 PM
Welcome to the forum from South Carolina. If you haven't already, take the MSF BRC (Motorcycle Safety Foundation Basic Rider Course). It's the best invesment in your safety that you can make. Ride safe.


:)

kyraeus
03-23-2013, 05:46 PM
alantf: 'The pipes on it WERE cut and rewelded at one point, poorly. I don't know what they had in mind, but they welded the pipes back on such that the end isn't in place properly to line up to bolt to the frame.'

I'm thinking I might just need to ebay around and see if anyone is parting out one of the original exhausts for this one eventually. meantime I was thinking of tying it up, since the two parts of the frame where the bolt would connect are still very close. Probably have to get some felt or something to put in between to reduce vibration in the meantime.

blaine/burk: thanks for the tips here. I had been planning to run gumout through it, but with all the references I saw to sea foam after seeing this, and about how it's apparently god's miracle cure for carbureted engines, I'm probably going to stop past sears and grab a can or two. As far as the paint I'll take your advice on that. I'm not sure if the gas tank is getting done that way, or if I'm just going to end up getting a new one. I guess that depends on how well burk's suggestion goes ;p Actually, can you guys point me towards a start to finish tutorial anywhere on how to paint plastic that way? I'm not sure with the sanding and everything how that goes on this sort of part, and I've literally never seen anyone do it over in clearcoat. Most of the people around here are just ghetto and leave the matte color with no protective coat.

mole: I haven't as yet, but had plans originally to take the safety course harley provides in the area. I'm a terrible son of an ex-harley worker, a) because I don't have a harley, b) because this is the first year span I've owned a bike in the 33 years I've been alive. Then again, as anyone probably knows by this point (especially since I live a stone's throw from the york, pa assembly plant), harleys just ain't what they used to be. They started pulling in cheap labor and having the experienced guys who worked on bikes all their lives basically train their replacements. My dad was pretty disgusted by the situation by the time he finally ended up leaving. I think they actually ended up pulling him back in for a bit because they needed someone to teach more newbies how to tighten bolt ends and put on brake calipers.

blaine
03-23-2013, 06:13 PM
Check out this link.I use Krylon products all the time & have good results with it.
This is a pic of my tank painted with Krylon satin black & clear coat.

http://www.krylon.ca/products/fusion_for_plastic/









http://s12.postimg.org/hpcqqgrnt/Picture0027.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/hpcqqgrnt/)

alantf
03-23-2013, 06:25 PM
alantf: 'The pipes on it WERE cut and rewelded at one point, poorly. I don't know what they had in mind, but they welded the pipes back on such that the end isn't in place properly to line up to bolt to the frame.'

No they didn't :) They cut the pipes and welded an AFTERMARKET muffler on. They didn't cut the pipes and reweld the original muffler. This is clearly not a factory, original, muffler. That's why the brackets don't fit. Like I said, you may have to cut the bracket off, and reweld it to fit on the original bolt.

Water Warrior 2
03-23-2013, 06:43 PM
Welcome to the forum. We always need new blood in our ranks to keep us awake and thinking.
Ditto on the new tires...new tubes too after this length of time.
Muffler fix: would you be able to just make a bracket to secure the whole sheebang where it is?
Carb fix: go with the suggestions here. I would also recommend replacing the vacuum and fuel lines to the carb as well as installing an inline fuel filter. Should be readily available at most auto parts stores or small engine repair shops.
Definitely an oil and filter change once it is running well enough to warm up the engine as bit prior to a change.
Check the air filter. Likely replace it after all this time but it should be inspected at a minimum. The air flow is a reverse flow with the GZ so the air filter must be removed and inspected from the inside. Also check that no one has drilled extra holes in the air box for better breathing. This is more than self defeating because it lets unfiltered air directly into the engine. Duct tape will seal holes nicely.
Just a word of caution from an old guy whole doesn't like pain. When repairing the front brake be very careful. Personally I would replace the brake line as a precaution and be sure the brake fluid reservoir is flushed well.
Sounds kinda pricey overall but you have the makings of a fine little bike that will serve you well.
I never owned my own bike til I was 31 years young.

kyraeus
03-25-2013, 04:05 AM
The pipes I'm not sure about. I see what you mean about it being an aftermarket pipe, it looks like whoever did it originally wasn't all that great with welding gear, having a few welders in my family has shown me what's possible with a good solid hand on the tools there. I'll have to ask around about how to minimize how ugly that looks when I get to the point of sanding down and making the chrome look pretty again at some point.

I went out today and literally blew about a hundred and twenty bucks on getting a set of tools that'll cover pretty much all of the basic maintenance on the bike, barring maybe the spark plug wrench and a few other things. I probably SHOULD get someone to check the valve measurements, but I want to have someone who can do that while I watch so I can learn something.

Oil and filter change was already planned, however I'm not too sure about the details on that. I got castrol 10w40, but the syntec stuff (as the post on the howto was circa 06 I believe?) appears to have disappeared, at least in this area, in favor of castrol 'edge' (listed as formerly syntec). The 'Edge' stuff showed up as having the comments that most oils have stating they include additives, so I avoided that one for the standard castrol instead. Ebay had 3x Volar filters for it for 8 bucks, not a bad deal, so I stocked up. Air filter is on my honey-do list as well.

Inline fuel filter IS an extremely good idea, and I literally just went to amazon to order one, although it's one of the little ones from here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012T ... UTF8&psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012TR1ZA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I've been through fun times with brake calipers on cars before (god, I hate trying to bleed brake lines, or finding ways to pop a drum back out because I don't have a proper 'C' clamp and walmart doesn't carry them at 11pm on a sunday night when I have to redo the brakes on a last minute emergency). I ended up ordering a new caliper, because I'm not sure what the deal is with the one the guy included with the bike, and I'd rather know it was a complete and working part.

When I get past the 'need to make it work' phase and have it up and running, I've already got a bunch of cosmetic upgrades in mind, not least of which is going to be fixing or replacing the tank with one that's not dented, possibly replacing the mirrors (which have some rust started), getting at LEAST new plastic covering for the brake and clutch levers if not new levers themselves, and certainly figuring out how to handle that exhaust. I really don't like how that looks right now, and I'm wondering if I can maybe sand down the weld a little or putty it or something, then chrome paint it again.

5th_bike
03-25-2013, 09:51 PM
First of all, Welcome to the Forum !!! :2tup:

Second, you may want to return that fuel filter, I think the fuel line is 1/4" ID, not 5/16".
At the ends, it's probably 5/16" ID but that is usually a bit stretched.
So maybe it will fit anyway...

(I don't have one, maybe someone else can chime in).

kyraeus
03-25-2013, 11:46 PM
I did a search when I saw the suggestion, somewhere on the forum I pinged in on one that suggested a 5/16 pancake filter. I couldn't find one of those that looked sturdy or the right size, so I opted for this one. I can't find the particular post I saw it on right now, maybe whoever that was had modified it and used different hose sizes. will see, I guess. I'll check it out when it gets in. Either way, it was only like 10 bucks, so I'm not out much.

We don't have much in the way of cycle shops with reasonable prices around here, so most of the stuff I'm getting via deals through ebay or amazon shops/etc. I couldn't gripe at getting 3 oil filters for 8 bucks when I was going to have to special order them locally for probably 10-15 a pop. Or $25 for an entire front brake caliper assembly when to order a new one would have been over a hundred.

mole2
03-29-2013, 01:05 AM
As far as the exhaust there are a few on Ebay and some with nice pricing.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid= ... &_from=R40 (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p4840.m570.l1313.TR4.TRC1&_nkw=gz+250+exhaust&_sacat=0&_from=R40)


:)

kyraeus
04-07-2013, 03:22 AM
Long story short, anyone who's following this might see where I posted in the beginner section.

There's an update here: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6464&p=71805#p71805 (http://www.gz250bike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6464&p=71805#p71805)