I can't figure it out..

[schooler94]

Hey guys, I just joined the forums, and I've been having some problems with my '07 GZ250. Last Thursday night I rode it to school and it was pretty damn freezing after class (High 50's, cold for me) and my seat was wet with dew. I hopped on it and tried to start it and I wouldn't turn over. The battery was fine, the starter was fine, but it just wouldn't start. So I tried to start it with the choke all the way on for quite some time before it finally fired up. I let it warm up for a few minuted and froze my ass off the whole way home with no problems. I let it sit in my backyard for a few days while I was busy working and whatever, then I tried to start it up and it wouldn't start again! It wasn't even cold outside, probably like 75 degrees. Anyway, whenever I would try to start it after that it would take somewhere around 10 tries and then finally turn over (choke all the way on) and whenever I would let off the throttle, say to slow down at a stoplight, it would stall on me! Even with the choke all the way on... so I took it home, changed the spark plug, didn't help. I looked at the air filter to see if it was dirty, it looked pretty clean, but I can't see the inside, and I don't have an air compressor to blow it with. The housing was dry and spotless though. So, I figured it must be the carburetor. I removed it by myself (with absoltely no prior knowledge of anything to do with motorcycles, just little knowledge of cars) with the help of a users manual on this site. So I removed the carb and took it into a shop to have it professionally cleaned. I got it back yesterday and put everything together, and added a new inline fuel filter. I put in a gallon of fresh premium gas and tried to run it and the same thing happened. So I carefully drove it back to the shop and thhey said 50 bucks to check it out and fine tune everything. He said it probably just needs to be tuned now, so hopefully that's it and I don't need anymore work done. Anybody know what else it could be than just a tune? Thanks

[Rookie Rider]

How good is your battery and when was the last time it had a good charge for at least 8-10 hours ? Maybe your idle is to low too, the white knob on right side of your bike as youre sitting on it.

[schooler94]

When they cleaned the carb they put the idle at 3.5 turns which he said I shouldn't put it any higher. I just bouth the bike two weeks ago so idk about the battery but it seems fine, the starter doesn't get weak when I crank it and the lights don't dim, but I'm sure they'll check it at the shop its at

[Rookie Rider]

May also be a short somewhere, others with more knowledge then me will be here soon, hang out. You wont regret it :)

[schooler94]

Alright thanks for the help man

[schooler94]

Oh yeah and I should add it only has 6100 miles on it. Under 6k when I got it two weeks ago

[Rookie Rider]

Check the battery connections. Maybe you should be charging it now till you get the help you need.

[schooler94]

How do you charge it?

[Rookie Rider]

With a battery tender, (trickle charger), over night is your best bet. Take the seat off and then take off the right side plastic panel and you will see the battery. Hook up the clips to the battery terminals. Also maybe your petcock is clogged, just a thought.

[Rookie Rider]

Oh, if you ever jump start it with a car be sure the car IS NOT RUNNING, the car must be OFF !!!

[schooler94]

The car has to be off? How does it charge then? Haha that's different... and I took apart the petcock, its not perfect but its in decent shape. The fuel flow looks fine to me

[Rookie Rider]

Yes, car OFF !!!!

[schooler94]

Haha alright thanks

[JWR]

If it does not start the first time, always rock the kill switch.

Mine did not do this all the time, but it always started the second time if it did.

[schooler94]

So just flip the kill switch on and off and try again? I've never heard of that

[JWR]

A few of us have had to do this.

[schooler94]

Alright thanks for the advice

[alantf]

When they cleaned the carb they put the idle at 3.5 turns which he said I shouldn't put it any higher.

If they're talking about the screw inside the carb, then fine....however the big white knob for adjusting the idle speed is something completely different. It doesn't matter how many turns you give it. It's there so that you can set the idle speed to between 1200 and 1400 RPM, with the engine fully warmed up, and the choke off.

[Road_Clam]

Hey guys, I just joined the forums, and I've been having some problems with my '07 GZ250. Last Thursday night I rode it to school and it was pretty damn freezing after class (High 50's, cold for me) and my seat was wet with dew. I hopped on it and tried to start it and I wouldn't turn over. The battery was fine, the starter was fine, but it just wouldn't start. So I tried to start it with the choke all the way on for quite some time before it finally fired up. I let it warm up for a few minuted and froze my ass off the whole way home with no problems. I let it sit in my backyard for a few days while I was busy working and whatever, then I tried to start it up and it wouldn't start again! It wasn't even cold outside, probably like 75 degrees. Anyway, whenever I would try to start it after that it would take somewhere around 10 tries and then finally turn over (choke all the way on) and whenever I would let off the throttle, say to slow down at a stoplight, it would stall on me! Even with the choke all the way on... so I took it home, changed the spark plug, didn't help. I looked at the air filter to see if it was dirty, it looked pretty clean, but I can't see the inside, and I don't have an air compressor to blow it with. The housing was dry and spotless though. So, I figured it must be the carburetor. I removed it by myself (with absoltely no prior knowledge of anything to do with motorcycles, just little knowledge of cars) with the help of a users manual on this site. So I removed the carb and took it into a shop to have it professionally cleaned. I got it back yesterday and put everything together, and added a new inline fuel filter. I put in a gallon of fresh premium gas and tried to run it and the same thing happened. So I carefully drove it back to the shop and thhey said 50 bucks to check it out and fine tune everything. He said it probably just needs to be tuned now, so hopefully that's it and I don't need anymore work done. Anybody know what else it could be than just a tune? Thanks

The first trick to figuring out your problem is to isolate weather you have a fuel delivery problem or an electrical problem. Always my first suggestion is try to establish a pattern for when the engine wont run. Tip #1 is always check the SIMPLY things first. Do you have a clean sparkplug ? Another common cause of ill erratic running and stalling is rust sediment in the fuel tank clogging the fuel tank petcock. Also do some searching and read up on battery and charging checks. It can be done all with a multimeter, it's good knowledge. Here's a simple charging system DIY I put together :

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5879 (http://www.gz250bike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5879)

[BonChaton]

schooler!

I'll be super interested to hear what your mechanic did if he figures it out. This sounds very very similar to the starting problem I have right now. (I posted right before you.)

Please let us know!

Thanks,
BonChaton

[Water Warrior 2]

Hey guys, I just joined the forums, and I've been having some problems with my '07 GZ250. Last Thursday night I rode it to school and it was pretty damn freezing after class (High 50's, cold for me) and my seat was wet with dew. I hopped on it and tried to start it and I wouldn't turn over. The battery was fine, the starter was fine, but it just wouldn't start. So I tried to start it with the choke all the way on for quite some time before it finally fired up. I let it warm up for a few minuted and froze my ass off the whole way home with no problems. I let it sit in my backyard for a few days while I was busy working and whatever, then I tried to start it up and it wouldn't start again! It wasn't even cold outside, probably like 75 degrees. Anyway, whenever I would try to start it after that it would take somewhere around 10 tries and then finally turn over (choke all the way on) and whenever I would let off the throttle, say to slow down at a stoplight, it would stall on me! Even with the choke all the way on... so I took it home, changed the spark plug, didn't help. I looked at the air filter to see if it was dirty, it looked pretty clean, but I can't see the inside, and I don't have an air compressor to blow it with. The housing was dry and spotless though. So, I figured it must be the carburetor. I removed it by myself (with absoltely no prior knowledge of anything to do with motorcycles, just little knowledge of cars) with the help of a users manual on this site. So I removed the carb and took it into a shop to have it professionally cleaned. I got it back yesterday and put everything together, and added a new inline fuel filter. I put in a gallon of fresh premium gas and tried to run it and the same thing happened. So I carefully drove it back to the shop and thhey said 50 bucks to check it out and fine tune everything. He said it probably just needs to be tuned now, so hopefully that's it and I don't need anymore work done. Anybody know what else it could be than just a tune? Thanks
Nowhere in your statement did you say you turned off the choke when the problem first started. Yes, when it is cooler out you will need the choke on but you can't just leave it on for the entire ride. Did you indeed turn off the choke after the bike warmed up a bit prior to riding home when the problem first showed up?

[schooler94]

My mechanic figured it out! But its not a simple problem. For some reason the exhaust valve won't close all the way so it's leaking a lot and the engine doesn't have the pressure to stay running when not on the throttle. He adjusted the valves so it would run, but I gave him the ok to open it up and figure out the cause so I don't create further problems by riding like that. His estimate was $250 for labor and no more than $400 if it needs an expensive part

[PimpS]

Geeez! 400$ Some serious shit has happened to the geezer!

[alantf]

Sounds like the valve wants grinding in, for some reason.

[raul10141964]

the lean running can cause overheat on the exhaust valve or if the valve is set to tie will prevented
from close properly and course damage

[jonathan180iq]

I've been away for a little bit.
As I read the story more, I felt like the valves needed to be checked. When everything else is as it should be and you still have problems starting from cold, then a valve check/adjust is where to go.

Since you've already been told this by your mechanic, and he got it to run fine by adjusting the valves, why are you giving him $400 dollars again? The valves will work themselves out of whack over time. It's more common for them to tighten, but they will also slacken a bit. It always varies.

If the original owner never had the initial valve check done, then 6,000 was way over due.

These things need at least a little choke in any season other than Summer, in my experience. After the bike is on the road and up to speed, start turning the choke back off. It should be completely unused within the first few miles.

[schooler94]

Finally head back from the mechanic yesterday after him having my bike for 5 weeks... They ordered a new head gasket because the compression was low and he said it was leaking, the shipment with my head gasket got lost and the mechanic didn't have the courtesy to call me and let me know what was going on. Finally, last Thursday, when I called to bug them again they said they got the head gasket installed and the problem still isn't fixed, and they were supposed to call me after they had it figured out. I never heard from them, so Yesterday I called again and he said he was going to take a look at it right then and will call me back. They called back around 7:30 pm and said either the head was warped, or the valves were bent, and they overlooked it when they had the head open to install the head gasket. He wanted $1300 to order a new head kit and valves. How do I even know this will fix it after the last two problems turned out to not even be right... So I told him I will come pick it up either today or tomorrow and part it out. I can't find any heads online, or I would take care of it myself, and save the hassle of a mechanic who doesn't communicate. Anyway, after I get it back I'll rip it apart and sell everything... I'm out $1500 if I can get $1000 for all the parts. And I only got to ride the bike for a week or two. I'm never buying used stuff again.

[raul10141964]

take the head to a machine chop.
I am auto mechanic an they ask about $100.00 for a 4 cylinder head

[schooler94]

Can they fix a warped head like that though?

[mrlmd1]

BTW - there's absolutely no reason to use premium fuel in these engines. It will not run better, the power and mpg is worse, and you are wasting your money.

[raul10141964]

most of the time they can reface the head but depend of haw bad is is an they can check the valves a changed if is necessary

[schooler94]

Alright well then it couldn't hurt to take it apart before I sell anything and see if it's the valves or head. And there's a machine shop down the street from where I live, so I'll just take it there. How much would it cost to machine a 1 cylinder head?

[blaine]

Alright well then it couldn't hurt to take it apart before I sell anything and see if it's the valves or head. And there's a machine shop down the street from where I live, so I'll just take it there. How much would it cost to machine a 1 cylinder head?

It shouldn't cost much.The head should have been checked for straightness & planed before head gasket was installed. :) :cool:

[Water Warrior 2]

Alright well then it couldn't hurt to take it apart before I sell anything and see if it's the valves or head. And there's a machine shop down the street from where I live, so I'll just take it there. How much would it cost to machine a 1 cylinder head?
The cost might be minimal compared to what you stand to loose without going to the machine shop. The machine shop will have the expertise to do a fine job and get you back riding if all goes well. If a warped head is the only problem and the valves do seal properly it will be money and your time well spent.
The bike shop you have been dealing with seems to have some issues. Is there another shop within a reasonable distance for future dealings. Not having a Suzuki dealer locally can be a pain but for a lot of items my local Yamaha dealer is good and his hired help has hands-on experience in a Suzuki shop. This may be a future option for parts and work you need. Items like oil filters and plugs are often common items for many makes of bikes and off road toys.

[schooler94]

Yeah, they didn't even look at the head when they did the gasket apparently... There isn't any other motorcycle shops in my city, but I'll gladly go to a different city next time.

[blaine]

Yeah, they didn't even look at the head when they did the gasket apparently.
They should have known better.You NEVER install a new head gasket on a aluminum head with checking to see if it's warped.
:cry: O_o

[schooler94]

Yeah idk... because when we were on the phone he was like "Its either the head is warped or the valves are bent, we should have checked while we had the head off, but we overlooked it."

[Rookie Rider]

Hes a douche !!

[blaine]

Yeah idk... because when we were on the phone he was like "Its either the head is warped or the valves are bent, we should have checked while we had the head off, but we overlooked it."
There is a easy way to to sea if valves are seating when you have the head off.It's "old school" but works.Fill the combustion chamber with a liquid & leave it for a few minutes,if the liquid doesn't leak out,you valves are seating.
:cool: :)

[schooler94]

And if it does leak its the piston rings?

[blaine]

And if it does leak its the piston rings?
No.If fluid seeps out of the combustion chamber,that your valves are not seating properly,indicating further problems with valves.
:) :cool:

[schooler94]

Wait... how's it gonna leak out the valves if the head's off?

[Water Warrior 2]

Wait... how's it gonna leak out the valves if the head's off?
Turn the head up side down. It it proves to hold a liquid then you may be on your way to a simple repair. You are taking the bike apart anyway so start with the head. Here's hoping good fortune smiles upon you. :2tup:

[blaine]

Turn the head up side down. It it proves to hold a liquid then you may be on your way to a simple repair. You are taking the bike apart anyway so start with the head. Here's hoping good fortune smiles upon you. :2tup:

Yep :) :cool:

[schooler94]

Ohhh I get it :D
You guys know how big the engine sprocket bolt is? I don't have any tools near big enough, and I don't want to get the wrong size wrench

[Water Warrior 2]

Ohhh I get it :D
You guys know how big the engine sprocket bolt is? I don't have any tools near big enough, and I don't want to get the wrong size wrench
The one you just bought should work.

[jonathan180iq]

Engine sprocket bolt is 30mm. Removing it is described in the sprocket tutorial:

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=317 (http://gz250bike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=317)

[schooler94]

Thanks, I bought a 32mm because it was the only one bigger than 1" that harbor freight sold solo, and it worked just fine