Voltage Regulator

[Zmeans1]

Hello all, I recently burnt my voltage regulator up on my bike. I bought a new one and put it on and a brand new battery. I no longer have an electric starter that works. Also another thing that puts me at a loss is when I bump start it, it will idle fine but will not take a throttle at all. I took off the carb and cleaned it put it back on with a new spark plug new battery and the new regulator and still nothing!!! Any suggestions help. I am starting to lose this battle! PLEASE

[Water Warrior 2]

Welcome to the forum. We will help as much as possible. First things first please. Year of bike. New to you but used by previous riders? Number of miles helps. Our trouble shooters will be along with questions to help determine the problem. Alantf will likely help with the elecrical, he is really good
A multimeter and testlight are handy when trouble shooting. Cheap and last forever.

Be patient.

[alantf]

I no longer have an electric starter that works.

Questions........

What happened, to burn out the regulator?

Did the starter motor work ok before the regulator burned out?

Does it not even attempt to work, or does it try?

Does the starter relay (under the seat) click when you press the starter button?

We need ALL the details, & the PRECISE details. :)

[Zmeans1]

Ok here we go! sry for my lack of details. 01 36k
I am almost positive what caused the regulator to burn out was a bad battery connection not a smooth current feeding to the positive side.

Yes, the starter motor did work before the regulator burnt out.

Now, it will not even attempt at all. and as for the relay under the seat nothing.

[Water Warrior 2]

What did I say? Alantf to the rescue of course. You will also want to be sure to charge up the new battery completely. Most dealers/suppliers give a battery an initial charge but it is never for a long enough time period and the battery will never last or hold a full charge. Use no more than a 2 Amp charger to finish the job. I have used a Battery Tender(0.85 Amps) with good results over night. It is a smart charger that will not overcharge a battery. The BT also comes with a permanent charging line that can be installed on the bike which makes for easier charging when needed. No need to remove the battery. A worthwhile investment for any rider. Both of our bikes are equiped this way. Great for topping up the batteries once a month during the off season in the GWN.

[alantf]

[attachment=0:37a6xiqk]img083.jpg[/attachment:37a6xiqk]If the relay's not clicking it sounds like a blown fuse. Don't think it's the starter motor itself. First thing, check all fuses. If they're ok, you'll need to test the relay circuit, back from the battery. The top drawing shows the 20A fuse. It's possible that it's one of the safety switches, but I doubt it. :)

[alantf]

Another one, where we've tried to help, then heard nothing more.

[Water Warrior 2]

Stuff happens. His replacement will be along in the Spring when another new rider discovers their bike is snafu-ed, needs help and then disappears into the night.

[bpdchief]

mayhaps i have not looked long or hard enough, but, where is the fuse box on the GZ... might be a good thing to know. And for Alan - I wired in cord with a male lighter plug incase I should have to jump the GZ (without the car running) is this a wrong move?

[Water Warrior 2]

Alantf is probably sleeping now so I will butt in with my 2 cents. If you have a male end leading away from the battery what is stopping it from contacting some part of the bike? If I understand you, there is a live power source(your battery) waiting to contact something courtesy of the male plug. You should have a waterproof power point on the bike that will accept a male plug. You can also power up a GPS or charge a cell with the power point on the bike. A length of wire with a male plug and clips on the other end will allow you to power up from any other vehicle just by lifting the hood and clipping onto the battery.
If the male plug on your bike is secured safely and insulated while not in use then go for it. Alantf will advise you about wire size and fusing.
Both the Vstrom and M-50 used a waterproof power point from time to time. I mounted the power point on Lynda's crash bars

[alantf]

I think you've made a grave mistake. Don't forget that you'll be pushing anything up to 80 amps into the starter motor. The "thin" wiring to the plug will not be able to take anything like that, and will burn out. You need to use a regular set of jump leads (with the THICK cable) between the two batteries. The thin wire that you see in the bike's starter circuit is merely to operate the solenoid that closes a heavy contact in the starter circuit. Take a look at the thick cable that goes to the bike's starter motor (front right of the engine) and you'll see what I mean. :)

BTW, the fuse box is under the saddle. Remove the saddle, then lift out the tool carrier, then you'll see it.

[mrlmd1]

You can use that 12 V socket/plug to attach a battery charger, but like Alan said, definitely NOT another 12v battery to jump start the bike. That wire will get so hot it may melt and/or start a fire. Don't even try that. You need heavy duty battery cables, like jumper cables used for a car, if you want to do that.

[bpdchief]

I wasn't clear in my meaning.... :whistle:
The cord I wired in is only to provide a charging source prior to trying to start the GZ NOT as a means to "jumpstart" the bike. I know the wires wouldn't carry the amperage needed to run the starter, but thought it would suffice to transfer a 5-10 minute charge to the little battery, if only to give enough spark for push starting. As for the exposed male plug - it has a firm rubber "condom" type cover (thick like innertube rubber) and that is again slipped into a tie bag to isolate it from any metal and is resting in the plastic tool tray under the seat.

New handlebars are coming Tuesday, I shall remove my mistake and add a waterproof port to the handlebar... and perhaps add a lighter plug to the other end of my wire so both plug into the power ports for the purpose of charging. Or just do away with it completely. :tongue:

[bpdchief]

After re-reading WW post, I prefer the idea of adding aligator clips to the other end for clipping to a battery. Thanks for you concern, comments and getting my tiny mind back on track :lol:

[Water Warrior 2]

Just trying to keep you out of trouble. Of course if you do mess up with great misery we get to rag on you for a few months.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

[alantf]

Most of the small chargers for bikes come with a short cable. Lugs for connecting to the battery on one end, and a socket on the other end. That way, you can connect one end permanently to the battery, and put the other end in the plastic tool tray. Thus, it's like what you've done, but a safe way. Mine's been on the bike for 5 years with no problems, and the small chargers are pretty cheap. Don't forget, that "5 minute charge" must be no more than 2 amps, while Suzuki recommend 0.75 amp max. :)

[bpdchief]

Think I'll get a maintainer (as many of you have) and wire it in. Got to quit being so cheap!!! :skull:

[Water Warrior 2]

Think I'll get a maintainer (as many of you have) and wire it in. Got to quit being so cheap!!! :skull:
A Battery Tender will provide for all your needs.