Compression Test

[Way]

Hi everyone!

I know it's been a while, hope everyone is doing well.
I have a question:
I want to do a compression test but haven't seen any procedure anywhere. I know it's pretty straightforward I suppose but if I don't ask this question, I know there will be something I should have done. :roll: I'm thinking the only thing I need to do is disconnect the fuel line but other than that, I'm not sure. Does the throttle need to be wide open or anything like that?

[PimpS]

I believe it's explained and showed with pictures in service manual... The procedure is explained also!
Good luck!

[blaine]

Hi everyone!

I know it's been a while, hope everyone is doing well.
I have a question:
I want to do a compression test but haven't seen any procedure anywhere. I know it's pretty straightforward I suppose but if I don't ask this question, I know there will be something I should have done. :roll: I'm thinking the only thing I need to do is disconnect the fuel line but other than that, I'm not sure. Does the throttle need to be wide open or anything like that?
Throttle should be wide open. :) :cool:

[Way]

Hey thanks Blaine :tup:

My main computer is down for the moment, can't download stuff in the library. When it rains it pours kind of deal. :roll:

[trionyx]

Hello Way,
I'm also interested in it, could you please inform us about the actual measured compression ratio.
If you find any trick, please share it :-)
Thanks! :-)

[Water Warrior 2]

If memory serves correctly today the compression ratio is 9 To 1. 9x14.7 would be approx 132 lbs per square inch of pressure. If your compression is within 10% of that figure you are probably doing fine.
If you have or can borrow a compression tester it would be best to have one that reads up to 250 PSI. It will likely read most accurately in the middle of it's range.

[Way]

Hi trionyx, nice to meet you.

I will definitely post up what I did. I'm not sure whether I'm dealing with a bad oil pump or not, but the valves started making some noise the other day at the end of a 40 mile ride and the motor seemed hot. When I say started making noise, I mean like they started really clattering. I'm hoping maybe it's an overdue valve adjustment as there was oil in the sight glass, although it was to the L side.

I have an Isuzu Amigo which requires valve adjustments too and I know I had to do that before I did a compression test so I figure I have to do the same with the GZ.

Hopefully I can get online with my own computer soon, maybe later tonight (hopefully.)

[jonathan180iq]

Before anything else, Way, top off the oil. A cheap, short-term solution would be to use a slightly thicker oil until the repair or replacement is absolutely necessary.

These things can vary in temp from day to day. The only way to know if it's really hot is to either scan it with a gauge. Either that, or you'll smell the cooking carbon and you might experience that tangy taste of metal on your tongue. That's a sensation I have, anyway....

A quick valve clearance check wouldn't take long either, just so you know for sure.

[Way]

Hi Jonathan, thanks. I didn't smell any carbon or have a metallic taste but it was definitely hotter than it usually is. What concerns me is how within a matter of miles the valves got so loud. I'm going to change out the oil anyway so that sounds like a good idea. Just wondering what an acceptable thicker oil viscosity is?

Well I checked the valve adjustment yesterday evening. Valves were loose as all get out, which is the opposite of what I understand to be normal wear? Usually when they wear, the adjustment gets tight right? Hope that isn't a bad omen...

I used a #2 square drive screw for the adjusters, and set them to .013 for the exhaust and .008 for the intake. I figured since valves wear to a tighter clearance, maybe that would give extra time between adjustments. I also don't own a 22 mm socket but I did have a 7/8" socket that fit real close. Not that I'm ever recommending using an SAE in place of a metric but sometimes you got to do what you got to do.

Now I might as well clear the air, admit it and get it over with:

I am an idiot.

I'm hoping that admitting this is the first step to a cure.

For some weird reason I figured I'd save time finding top dead center by using a pencil to know when the piston was on the upstroke. I know in hindsight that I just simply needed to put my finger over the spark plug hole to find the compression stroke and then watch for the mark on the crank to match the mark on the cover as stated in Jonathan180iq's how-to. But no, apparently my iq is not that high. :tongue:

So, anyway as the piston moved up I thought I heard a faint crunch but as it was getting dark and I was in a hurry I just took the pencil out and set about adjusting the valves. (It was in TDC for compression though as I confirmed, feeling the compression with my finger). So anyway, it got dark and I just put everything back together lightly, to keep moisture out until this morning. When I came out this morning and took the bike apart again, I happened to notice that the end of the pencil that USED to have the eraser, had a fresh break in it, the eraser nowhere to be seen. Now my IQ is barely high enough for me to remember I had the eraser side down because I figured I didn't want to risk the tip breaking off inside the cylinder head. So it seems, I broke the non-magnetic eraser part off in the cylinder. :cuss: I brought the piston to the bottom of its stroke so I could maybe see more of the inside of the cylinder but the spark plug hole is too small to really be able to get enough light in there to see if the eraser is indeed in there. I thought about putting some gum on the end of a thin dowel I have and try to fish around, but again the spark plug hole is too narrow for me to get anything in there enough to try. I was thinking maybe I could use a piece of wire or something but I'm thinking I'd probably just make things worse.

So anyway it appears I'm going to have to pull the cylinder head to clear it out. I figured I'd let you all know so you don't think I abandoned the thread. :roll:

[Water Warrior 2]

Sounds like you will be getting your learning curve increased whether you want it or not. Best of luck and do keep us in the loop.

[trionyx]

Hello Way,
My advice would be not to remove the cylinder head..Instead of that buy a transparent appr. 30cm long i.d. 3mm tube (SMC makes it), connect it to a compressor. Turn your engine to TDC position, put the tube into cylinder through the spark hole and blow it out by the compressed air. Even if you cannot blow it out, it moves, maybe you can remove it by "sharpened" screwdriver after directing the eraser bellow the spark plug hole. (Keep the tube vertical to have enough space blowing it out.) That's the easiest way...

[5th_bike]

,,,or put/hold a piece of plastic hose at the end of a vacuum hose and try and have it suck the eraser to it, to fish it out.

[Way]

Oh man, thanks guys! http://z3.ifrm.com/165/2/0/e172727//e172727.gif

I've got one of those little portable air tanks from a long time ago that I hooked an air nozzle to so that whenever I change spark plugs or need to clear dirt/dust from something, I can just blast it out. Didn't even think of using it for this.

I could also rig up some tubing to hook to my shop vac if need be. Glad I checked back before I got everything apart. It's nice having others around who can think for me when I have a brain cramp. :drool:

It's raining out right now, I was clearing a space in my walkway so I could bring the bike under cover. Now I have to have the patience to wait till it stops raining.... :whistle:

[OldNTired]

Sounds like you will be getting your learning curve increased whether you want it or not. Best of luck and do keep us in the loop.

After reading your posts, and all posts after the one by WW, I think the best advice you got WAS from WW.
Now, I'll give you some:
1. keep track of which cyl head cover bolts come from which holes. :)
And 2. Break down and spend the $5 on a 22mm socket!
and 3. Remember the top bolt will NOT come out (or go back in) if the cyl head cover is flat
on the cyl head.
Have a new cyl head gasket handy, and a good sealer for the head cover; I used Hylomar, and it is great. I know there are other good ones, but this stuff is the best I've ever used.

[jonathan180iq]

I would vacuum. Don't blow. You could inject debris or other crazy things into the engine.
VACUUM.

[mrlmd1]

Fill it up with oil, maybe it will float out. Then siphon or suck out the oil.

[Way]

Well I spent an hour or so yesterday trying to clear out the cylinder but not sure about the success.

Jonathan, I unfortunately did blow out the cylinder. I understand and agree with your point though. I kept the piston at TDC on the compression stroke so both valves should have been closed. I'm hoping that kept stuff from going into the engine.

Speaking of that stuff, I did get a few wood bits to blow out. I did not however see or hear anything else bouncing around in the cylinder. It makes me wonder whether that pencil had an eraser on it or not, though I'm sure it did, just not as sure as I was because it seems I would have seen something bouncing around in there. It was getting dark and I just grabbed what was in with the tools.

The vacuum was a good idea, but I did not see anything come up through the clear tubing.

Mrlmd1, that is an excellent suggestion. I will try that next. I have a cheapo turkey baster, (the kind with the squeezable bulb on the end) that I can use to suction with. That will be my last attempt.

OldNTired:
Are you thinking I should just give up on the compression test and remove the head? Please elaborate as I've read WW's posts.

1. Will do. I've got some cardboard I can punch some holes in to keep them in order.

2. The fit of the 7/8 is actually pretty good and the resistance to cranking with the spark plug out is not so bad as I think it's going to mess up the crank bolt. But, yes, I suppose I should let the moths out of my wallet.

3. Is Hylomar a UK product? I did a google search and believe it's called Permatex here Stateside which is pretty commonly available. Which type do you recommend for the GZ250?

Thanks fellas

[OldNTired]

Well I spent an hour or so yesterday trying to clear out the cylinder but not sure about the success.

Jonathan, I unfortunately did blow out the cylinder. I understand and agree with your point though. I kept the piston at TDC on the compression stroke so both valves should have been closed. I'm hoping that kept stuff from going into the engine.

Speaking of that stuff, I did get a few wood bits to blow out. I did not however see or hear anything else bouncing around in the cylinder. It makes me wonder whether that pencil had an eraser on it or not, though I'm sure it did, just not as sure as I was because it seems I would have seen something bouncing around in there. It was getting dark and I just grabbed what was in with the tools.

The vacuum was a good idea, but I did not see anything come up through the clear tubing.

Mrlmd1, that is an excellent suggestion. I will try that next. I have a cheapo turkey baster, (the kind with the squeezable bulb on the end) that I can use to suction with. That will be my last attempt.

OldNTired:
Are you thinking I should just give up on the compression test and remove the head? Please elaborate as I've read WW's posts.

1. Will do. I've got some cardboard I can punch some holes in to keep them in order.

2. The fit of the 7/8 is actually pretty good and the resistance to cranking with the spark plug out is not so bad as I think it's going to mess up the crank bolt. But, yes, I suppose I should let the moths out of my wallet.

3. Is Hylomar a UK product? I did a google search and believe it's called Permatex here Stateside which is pretty commonly available. Which type do you recommend for the GZ250?

Thanks fellas

Well, maybe I misunderstood, maybe I'm dumb, but it sounded to me like the end of the pencil broke off. That means that there is an eraser, and that cheap metal fastener, and some wood sitting in the cylinder. Trying to get that out of a spark plug hole, even if possible, is not going to easy or fast. Personnaly, I don't think that it is possible., because of the angles involved. It would frustrate me to the point of using an 8LB sledge on it!
Good idea with the cardboard!. And you are right, it doesn't take much to turn the engine over without a plug in there But, buying a tool you will use again is never a bad investment. And yes, Hylomar is a UK product. But between my son and I we have used every Permatex product we have found, and Hylomar beats them all for this kind of thing. Permatex used to be my favorite, but the Hylomar is only $1 more and is better. Over half the parts stores I've been in carry it, and I'm in the States. Plus, you can also use it as a replacement for LocTite.

[Way]

I just wasn't sure what you were addressing as far as the compression test was concerned and just wanted to know your opinion. Thanks!

I was thinking to try one last time using mrlmd1's suggestion but I'm wondering if it's worth the mess versus just taking the head off and knowing what I'm dealing with for sure.

Regarding this:

3. Remember the top bolt will NOT come out (or go back in) if the cyl head cover is flat
on the cyl head.

Do you mean to take out all the other bolts first and then tilt the cover so I can remove the top bolt? Or do you mean that all the other bolts come out all the way but the top bolt can only be unscrewed so far but never comes completely out while on the bike? In other words, I can remove all the bolts except the top one, but can loosen it enough to slide the cover off sideways..

Sorry for the questions, it may be that you're not the one who's dumb.. :tongue:

[mrlmd1]

It's much easier to fill it up with oil and see if anything floats out. Or washes out if you inject it with the turkey baster. If there's no debris or anything in there, that's a lot easier and less messy than taking the top of the head off.
You can also ask around different mechanic's shops if anyone has a fiberoptic 'scope to look inside the cylinder. Maybe you could borrow or rent it, or bring the bike over to the shop and let them look inside the cylinder.

I would do the oil thing- that's the easiest.

[OldNTired]

I just wasn't sure what you were addressing as far as the compression test was concerned and just wanted to know your opinion. Thanks!

I was thinking to try one last time using mrlmd1's suggestion but I'm wondering if it's worth the mess versus just taking the head off and knowing what I'm dealing with for sure.

Regarding this:

3. Remember the top bolt will NOT come out (or go back in) if the cyl head cover is flat
on the cyl head.

Do you mean to take out all the other bolts first and then tilt the cover so I can remove the top bolt? Or do you mean that all the other bolts come out all the way but the top bolt can only be unscrewed so far but never comes completely out while on the bike? In other words, I can remove all the bolts except the top one, but can loosen it enough to slide the cover off sideways..

Sorry for the questions, it may be that you're not the one who's dumb.. :tongue:

No need for apologies, I should have explained why.
Your first guess was the right one. You can loosen that bolt all the way, but there is just not enough room between the head cover and the frame to pull the bolt out. I removed all bolts except that one, then lifted it just enough to lift it out of the head, then tilted the head cover while I removed the bolt. I also, when removing the head cover, used a couple plastic ties to keep the wiring harness out of the way as much as possible.

[Way]

You know it's funny... I've been a collector of tools all my life and I had to look around for my compression tester. I totally forgot that I have an oil suction gun I bought a long time ago - never used it. :roll: Looks like this, except in chrome:

http://forums.aaca.org/attachments/f120/32311d1246714448-what-do-you-use-pump-gear-non-branded-oil-suction-gun.jpg

If this doesn't work, nothing will.

Don't know about the scope though it would be nice.

On a side note, I compared the threads on my tester to those on the spark plug but it seems the tester is very slightly thicker diameter. I used it in a Geo Metro engine last so I know it's a metric thread. I suppose I have to buy an adapter but I guess it's cheaper than a head gasket at this point.

[jonathan180iq]

Ahhhhh, Geo Metros...... Probably the best car ever made. I'm totally not joking. I've owned two of them.

http://i55.tinypic.com/2ed5f15.jpg

[Way]

Haha, I know exactly what you mean... I've got 4 of them. :2tup:

One is my daily driver, 1 is a maybe fixer-upper to sell, one is on its last legs as a winter beater and the last is a parts car with 25K miles on the odometer. Hopefully I'll be driving my Geo for a long, long time.

Well the oil trick turned up nothing. I'm not sure whether I should bother with the compression test as I don't have the proper adapters anyway. What I have only fits 2 sizes and neither is the correct one for the bike. I suppose I could take the old plug, hollow it out and clamp a piece of tubing between it and the tester fitting. I don't know whether it can hold up to 145+/- psi though. It would give me a little bit of an idea as to the condition of the motor before I take the head off though.

Do you all think it would do much damage if I were to do a compression test if there was still a piece from the eraser in there? I almost don't think anything is left in there but without scoping it, I can't be 100 % sure.

[Water Warrior 2]

If you only have a small piece of pencil lead and not any other stuff in there you might get away with a compression test and suffer little or likely no damage. The lead is soft enough to turn to powder in time etc. That is just my opinion of course so don't say I told you to do it. You should have a proper tool for the test though. A rigged up old plug would be real iffy at best. Try your local auto parts store for adapters. Take in the plug so they can compare the threads.

[Way]

These dang computers .. :skeptical:

I had tried to post yesterday and lost my original post due to timeout. In the original post, I explained that I had gone to 3 different parts places and no one had any adapters that would fit. They did have compression testers though with all the necessary adapters but then that's $40 on top of the tester I already have. Sorry about that, I thought I had explained it already. Well I did, but no one read it... :lol:

Anyway to make a long story short, If anyone is considering it, buy a compression test kit that has multiple adapters so that you can test any size engine. In the long run it will save money.

[Water Warrior 2]

Suggestion for you. Take a plug down to a tool rental place and see if they have a compression tester that will fit /match the plug threads. Asking is free.

[mrlmd1]

Don't they have a big rubber plug that jams into the spark plug opening, for sort of a universal fitting?

[alantf]

Don't they have a big rubber plug that jams into the spark plug opening, for sort of a universal fitting?

That's what the last one I used (a few years ago) had.

[Way]

WW, thanks. Nearest rental is 20 miles (32 km) away. By the time all's said and done, I'd probably be better off just buying another tester...

Mrlmd1, yep some of them do. I bought the thread-in kind because I usually work by myself and it's easier to just thread a tester in and keep my hands free. Can't remember where I bought it, but I know now I should have bought one with plenty of adapters instead of just thinking of the job at hand.
I tried to use a cone washer that is usually used in faucet repairs with the same principle in mind but between trying to hold the tester in with one hand and reaching over to press the starter button, I could not hold it on long enough- kept blowing off at about 85 psi which I hope means I have plenty of compression.

I believe I have rigged up an adequate solution, but will have to wait till tomorrow if it's not raining. I bought a nylon hose connector with a barbed section on one side and a threaded section on the other, an M12 die and a small bit of high pressure 3/8 (9.5mm) fuel line and 2 hose clamps. I threaded the fuel line onto the connector, tapped the end so I can screw it into the spark plug hole and threaded the other end onto the compressor fitting. Seems to be pretty tight, hopefully will hold up. I really am anxious to get the test done so I can see what I'm dealing with.

[Way]

Okay, not sure where to go from here. O_o

I don't know how to post the procedure from the manual but anyway, the acceptable range is from 149 to 199 PSI. Limit is given as 114 PSI.

Being as I am quite certain nothing was left in the cylinder, I started the bike up to warm it up. Started right up, no problem at all, valves still pretty loud even after adjusting though not quite as bad as before but still louder than what they had been. Took it out for a spin, about a mile or so.

I threaded the homemade adapter in, unhooked the fuel line, opened the throttle and cranked for a few seconds.... Tester seems quite snug and airtight, no air leaks as far as I could tell... So... drum roll.... are you ready? :hide:

How in hell could it be... 90 PSI ?

:shocked:

I don't get it. I would have heard air escaping from the lines if there was a leak in the testing setup. Such a low reading makes no sense at all though. Would the motor even start? It wasn't hard starting at all, not in the slightest.
No smoke coming out the exhaust, bike took off as normal no power lag. It certainly didn't run like it was anemic in any way.

I couldn't see any kink in the tester hose, again no hissing if air were leaking. I know these motors are very good but if it indeed is running at 90, it sure seems there would be seepage coming from somewhere, like out the exhaust? Any thoughts?

[Water Warrior 2]

Way, I think you may need to get a proper test rig. Your penny tech equipment is probably giving you a false reading. Sort that out before going in any deeper than needed.

[Way]

Thanks WW. Yeah, I've been thinking on it and it just doesn't make any sense otherwise. A motor that out of spec is not going to be a pretty sight or sound and it sure as hell isn't going to start right up.

I'll have to get another tester.

[Way]

Ok, I at least figured out how to post the procedure in case someone else needs it:

http://i654.photobucket.com/albums/uu264/Way001/CompressionTestProcedure.jpg

[Water Warrior 2]

Ok, I at least figured out how to post the procedure in case someone else needs it:

http://i654.photobucket.com/albums/uu264/Way001/CompressionTestProcedure.jpg
You are doing better than me. I have difficulty posting my own words at times.

[trionyx]

Hello,
I made a compression tester..I used an old spark plug for proper connection.
After several tests it seems to me, there is no difference if you are using the spark plug's metal gasket for the adapter or simple o-ring.
More important to have a non-return valve in between the adapter and indicator gauge.

[5th_bike]

....a nylon hose connector with a barbed section on one side and a threaded section on the other, an M12 die and a small bit of high pressure 3/8 (9.5mm) fuel line ....

....Took it out for a spin, about a mile or so. ...

How in hell could it be... 90 PSI ?
.....

Any thoughts?

a) Did you correct for the volume of air in the connector, hose and gauge?
With the piston at the top, the volume above it is very small so any increase in volume will cause a pressure loss.

b) one mile doesn't really warm up the engine, I'd go like 10 miles. A lower engine temperature means you will get a lower pressure reading.

[mrlmd1]

If you are not using a suitable hose in your jury rig that will not expand during the testing, you will not get an accurate pressure reading. Are you using reinforced hoses and a screw-in connector at the plug hole?

[Way]

I'm not sure if my tester has a check valve in it or not but for that extra cost of getting a check valve, I could probably just save up a few more and get a tester kit with all the adapters.

I didn't think about the volume change. I'm using about 8 inches of reinforced fuel line. It's 3/8 " (9.5mm) and rated to 250 psi. It doesn't look like it's bulging but then again whatever 8" x pi (r2) comes out to be, that would be the additional volume. It's about .88 cu. in. Do you think that would be enough to throw the pressure off by that much? Interesting... I guess it depends on what % volume change that represents.

I've got one end of the fuel line threaded onto the existing brass fitting on the tester, secured by a clamp. The other end, I used a 1/4 " nylon connector that I threaded with a M12X1.25 die. I used a large conical faucet washer pressed on as the gasket. It threads in pretty tight as I snugged it with long nose pliers and seems to fit snug against the washer. I don't hear any pressure escaping, the hose doesn't have any noticeable bulge and the compression gauge holds steady at 90 psi, no slow leakage is visible on the gauge.

I will try to post a sound recording of the engine running if I can get my stuff together to do it. With the noise of the valve I have no doubt that I have compression loss, but it just has to be higher than what I'm getting.

[Way]

Well I ordered an adapter for the tester. Hopefully will be in by the end of the week.
If I was good at money management, I would have just ordered this to begin with and saved time + $10. :roll:

If I was really a whiz at money management I would have bought a complete compression tester kit to begin with that had all of the adapters. :poke2:

Hopefully, lesson learned for someone else. :whistle:

[Water Warrior 2]

Sometimes it is better to have a tool and not need it than need it and not have it. I bought a real nice half inch torque wrench in 1995 and haven't used it yet. Yup, that was back when I was ambitious about getting my hands dirty.

[Way]

Well I got the adapter in yesterday. Not much to it, about 3/4 the length of my pinky.

Took the bike out for a 15 mile ride, nice windy, hilly road that I hadn't been on for about 8 years. That should have warmed it up nicely. Put the tester in and got 145 psi which is at the bottom of the range. Valves still sound a bit noisy, motor has a little over 8000 miles on it.

I've adjusted the valves but one of the adjusters on the exhaust side is getting a little short. I'm wondering if perhaps I should plan on doing some head work this winter, like getting some new valves, lapping etc? I forgot to do the wet test by putting some oil in the spark plug hole, guess I should do that too. I didn't see that mentioned in the manual though. I've got the bike in a friend's shed about 10 miles away so it'll have to wait till Monday I guess. :roll:

[Water Warrior 2]

A dry compression test of 145 psi should be a fair indication of ring and valves sealing. A wet test will no doubt look even better. Your bike really hasn't that many miles on it to start worrying about taking it apart. The valves themselves should be a little noisy. When they stop making noise is when you start looking for a problem. Personally I would just ride it and enjoy the fall weather before it goes away.

[Way]

It's definitely been beautiful riding. I really enjoy it but it just seems the motor is louder than it used to be as I noted in the original post. I notice that people's heads turn as I approach and pass. Now it may be that they are turning because they are spellbound by the beautiful intermingling of man and machine but as likely as that may be, I can't help but think it's because of the noise. I am aiming to do this as a winter project once it's time to put away for winter.

I want to try to get an audio posted of the engine running, I just need to get my camera outfit together.

[Water Warrior 2]

It's definitely been beautiful riding. I really enjoy it but it just seems the motor is louder than it used to be as I noted in the original post. I notice that people's heads turn as I approach and pass. Now it may be that they are turning because they are spellbound by the beautiful intermingling of man and machine but as likely as that may be, I can't help but think it's because of the noise. I am aiming to do this as a winter project once it's time to put away for winter.

I want to try to get an audio posted of the engine running, I just need to get my camera outfit together.
It's that loud !! Ouch.

[Way]

I'm really hoping it's my good looks, wit and charm that's attracting all the looks. :cool:

I'll try to get the audio tomorrow... :whistle:

[Way]

Well I got an audio but I used a cheapo cell phone to do it with. I'm not entirely satisfied with the sound quality as it sounds awfully "tinny". I've gone in and adjusted the valves before this and it being that I got 145 psi on the compression, I'm guessing they're not horribly out of adjustment but then I'm no expert. It certainly doesn't sound like they are. I will dig out my camera and get better audio tomorrow. I had my hand over the camera part as I was pointing the mic at the bike so all you're seeing is the palm of my hand. Anyway here's a sample:

http://i654.photobucket.com/albums/uu264/Way001/th_VID_20120924_220048.jpg (http://s654.photobucket.com/albums/uu264/Way001/?action=view&current=VID_20120924_220048.mp4)

[Way]

I guess the sound quality will have to do for now, still having computer issues along with not being totally familiar with the camera settings. Images will transfer but not the sound only recordings. :??:

So, any opinions on what you can hear in the audio posted? The valves are loud, maybe I'm not locking them down tight enough? How would I know for sure I need to rebuild the head?

[Way]

Anyone?

Bueller? Bueller?

[Water Warrior 2]

Anyone?

Bueller? Bueller?
Been waiting for opinions myself. That does sound kinda ugly though. What I hear is the noise seems to be twice the number of engine RPM. I can only suggest taking the bike to a decent shop and having a professional put his ear to the problem.
You may want to recheck the valves first to eliminate that possibility and then make a decision.

[Way]

Thanks WW. It might be a big hassle for me to do but then again, the way it sounds, I'm not sure much more damage would be done with another 10 mile ride. I'll wait a bit more for some opinions but I'll probably check the valve clearances again and make sure I did them right. It's in a garage about 20 miles away as I was going to pretty much stop for the winter until I get this straightened out. My own place sits in a flood zone so storage is always a tricky thing. :roll:

[Water Warrior 2]

Thanks WW. It might be a big hassle for me to do but then again, the way it sounds, I'm not sure much more damage would be done with another 10 mile ride. I'll wait a bit more for some opinions but I'll probably check the valve clearances again and make sure I did them right. It's in a garage about 20 miles away as I was going to pretty much stop for the winter until I get this straightened out. My own place sits in a flood zone so storage is always a tricky thing. :roll:
Yipes, not many bikes can tread water for long.
Flood zones are a real life changer if you get caught unprepared. So far I've managed to avoid living in one but of course I always seem to live above a fault line in the Earth's crust. So far so good.

[Way]

Most people have a walk-in basement, I have
a walk-in flood zone.

I was going to make a joke about earth- shaking but then
something about the possibility of losing everything
up to and including one's life doesn't seem that
funny. :sad:
Sorry for the odd spacing I'm on my cheap phone.

[Way]

Been about 180 views since I posted the audio and still no other answers? Not that WW is not an important person or anything but with all the gurus on here, it seems someone should be able to chime in. :hide:

If I said something to offend please point me to the offense so I can at least say it again with meaning... :poke2:

[Water Warrior 2]

Don't worry about offending anyone, you didn't. Few folks have an ear diagnosing a sound and others aren't willing to hazard a guess and then steer you wrong. You might need the services of a pro to get a proper answer to the sound. By all means check your valves again to eliminate them and then proceed.