Adjustments after sprocket change

[webbmeister25d]

So, I noted the location of each axle bracket against the indentations on the swing arms before I loosened things up to go for the larger front sprocket. They were not equal. The new front sprocket is now on, and the chain tension is good, but the axle placement from right to left is still unequal. What method do you all use to ensure the rear tire is in line with the front tire when you adjust your chain tension? Was my bike just poorly adjusted to begin with? Should I be aiming to make the axle brackets line up with the same indentations or spaces between indentations on the swing arm - the idea being to get both sides of the axle equidistant from the front of the swing arm? I guess I'm asking how to do a rear end alignment?

Thanks!

Jim

[5th_bike]

Last time I did that, I used something straight (I think it was a piece of wood that's in the bottom of those gray plastic pull down shades) pressed it against the wheel on the left side, and checked if it were parallel to the chain. I never pay attention to those marks on the swing arms.

[Water Warrior 2]

The marks on the swing arm should match each other when the chain adjust is done properly. Adjust the wheel so that the chain slack is proper and lightly snug the axle nut. Check the marks again. You may see a difference. Sometimes the axle will shift just from snugging the axle. If so, start over again in the adjustment process. If there is no shift then tighten to the proper torque and check the marks again. It happens even when you least expect it and you are confident in your abilities. Don't ask me how I know. :whistle: :whistle:
Just a mention. If you put a larger sprocket on the front you may have to adjust the wheel forward to get the proper chain slack.

[webbmeister25d]

Thanks - I will try aligning the marks.

[fatoldfool]

I can usually tell during a ride if a rear wheel is out of line. I had one sportster I would align using a shopmade jig (measured from centerline of swingarm mount bolt to centerline of rear axle, yet the bike always "pulled" like the rear was trying to go right. Turned out the frame was tweaked. Found that out by stretching strings. A quick check of my GZ using all three methods (strings, straight edge and the marks on the swingarm) shows it is straight and the marks are accurate.

[webbmeister25d]

Well, it appears that the marks on mine are accurate too. The new sprocket is in, the chain has been cleaned and lubed with DuPont Chain Lube, the chain has been adjusted to well within spec, and the rear wheel has been aligned using the marks on the swing arms. Heck, I even splurged for a new cotter pin! While at the Ford dealership for regular car maintenance yesterday, I got a chance to ask my mechanic (a lifetime rider - man - you'll have to hunt far and wide to find a bike as beautiful as his!) about the rear wheel alignment question. His answer was interesting. He advised that I wet down my driveway or the street in front of my house and drive the bike through the water and beyond in a straight line. He said that if the bike is properly aligned, I'd see that both tires would combine to make one line of water as the bike emerged from the wet down area. If not, I'd see two lines, one slightly offset from and parallel to the other. After realigning the wheel according to the swingarm notches, I tried this. One line!

Here's a +1 for the 16 tooth sprocket. There seems to be more first and quite a bit more second and third. Haven't gotten all the way through 4th - still practicing in my subdivision to make certain I know exactly what I'm doing when I get up to 55 and when I get into traffic. The sense is that the collection of gears has evened out and I'm up and down shifting less often. A less busy ride. For me, that equals a less tense and more natural and fun ride. Certainly, the regular practice is helping too!

Thank you, my friends, for your help with these questions.

Jim

[Water Warrior 2]

Yup, you will find the bike more user friendly around town. Even my Vstrom is nicer with the added tooth up front. The downside is a hard pull on the highway with wind or slight hills. The GZ will definitely sound less busy with the gearing now. You may loose a little top end power and speed but that is the trade off of regearing a bike. You can always go back if you don't like it.

[Rookie Rider]

I want to do the 16t but i use the highway often and need the power.

[Water Warrior 2]

I want to do the 16t but i use the highway often and need the power.
Yup, no matter what you do it is still a GZ. The times that I rode Lynda's GZ it felt geared as well as could be. But of course we have to experiment just because we are human and searching for a little more power, speed, economy or all of the above.

[Road_Clam]

Generally speaking the factory alignment marks are adequate for street use. They may or may not be off a tad, but you won't notice the mis alignment. Hardcore racers with modified chassis will grind off the factory marks and scribe fresh ones after a complete chassis re-alignment. When I raced MX I would ocassionaly check my sprocket alignment by clamping a 2' long machinists' scale to the rear sprocket, then visually confirm the alignment to the front sprocket. Never had mis-alignment issues.

Here's a pic illustrating the concept. I had to establish a baseline sprocket alignment prior to fabricating the engine mount on my KX500 shifter kart build :

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/5078/img2037w.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/152/img2037w.jpg/)

[Water Warrior 2]

I'll bet a person could figure a way to do that without removing the chain.

[webbmeister25d]

Light bulb! That is a picture of a motorcycle version of getting a band saw's two wheels co-planar. I now completely understand.