Small oil leak on cooling fins

[antipeterleague]

Hey guys, have a small issue, hopefully it is easily resolvable.

This is my first bike, 2001 with about 17000km.

The second day of owning it I noticed the oil to be incredibly low so I changed it myself, the chain was looking horrid so I cleaned and lubed it, all this thanks to some helpful posts on this forum.

I saw a thread about an oil leak a few posts down and thought my problem was identical, but upon further inspection there is no leak around the exhaust connection to the engine. Instead it seems like its coming from the open area between the cooling fins, if that makes sense. Here are some pictures I snapped on my phone

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/punkbassist/6ac28a31.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/punkbassist/6a3d56cd.jpg

The first image depicts what I'm talking about, there is a line of oil on the 4th fin down, on the right side of the middle divider.

[GZ250]

When you ride with an oil leak obviously you will see oil on the head because it goes with the direction of the air and as it spreads and burns it is hard to detect the actual spot and the burnt oil becomes gooey. In my case it started with a small leak (hard to detect) and gradually I could see smoke coming out from the exhaust joint only in idle. There was no oil on exhaust or joint, everything was on the head.

To start with, remove the side metal plate that covers the plug and set it aside. Check the plug for any oil or burning. Clean the leaked and burned oil as much as you can. First start the bike and let it run idle for considerable time (let the oil heat up) and sit beside the bike and rev up the engine and see for any smoke or leak. Then go for a ride and check again.

There are also nuts/ bolts on exhaust and head that you can tighten but do not do over the limit.

[Water Warrior 2]

Doesn't look like much of a problem. That is likely the residue from shipping gunk they put on the bike.

Now that you have fresh oil you should glance at the level before every ride. Your GZ will likely use some oil but don't get too excited about it. Most do so just top it up and ride on. It really is a good habit to be in. Check all lights for proper function(including horn) and the tire pressure too.

[GZ250]

>>>>>> Doesn't look like much of a problem. That is likely the residue from shipping gunk they put on the bike.

its an old bike (2001) with 17K and the gunk must be burnt already. hopefully there is no big issue but just check to make sure.

[OldNTired]

>>>>>> Doesn't look like much of a problem. That is likely the residue from shipping gunk they put on the bike.

its an old bike (2001) with 17K and the gunk must be burnt already. hopefully there is no big issue but just check to make sure.

If the 'leak' persists, try tightening the head bolts.
DO NOT overtighten, just make sure they are at the right torque.
There is a gasket in the area of your problem,
sometimes it needs replaced, but most times
the bolts just need torqued.
Mine showed those symptoms, and torquing thew bolts fixed it.
But, like GZ250 said, sometimes it is the shipping gunk.
Good luck.

[antipeterleague]

Actually it's not just gunk anymore. It's new oil every time I ride it, but very small amounts.the oil gauge is at the full line, maybe its overfilled?

GZ250, I will try what you did. What metal plate are we talking about? Chrome piece beneath the tank?

[GZ250]

yes, the chrome pieces under the tank and remove both from either side. It helps to see the area more clearly. overfilling should not leak like this. its some seal or gasket and if you are lucky just the tightening of bolts would help.

[raul10141964]

I have the same leak on my 2001 and it is coming from the valve cover, but the leak is so slow that I'm planing to wait until it becomes a problem

[antipeterleague]

Thanks for all the help guys. I will disassemble the plates and go for a closer look. I'm assumin I don't need to remove the tank.

[jonathan180iq]

You shouldn't have to remove the tank, but doing so makes all maintenance easier. Once you've done it once, it literally takes maybe 1-2 minutes to remove. Two bolts and 2 vacuum lines. It's nothing at all.

[antipeterleague]

Hey guys, just popped the metal plate off, and its clear that the leak is happening from within that nook, probably from that rubber hose/tube. I just don't know what it is, or how to work in there really.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/punkbassist/d21e0f0c.jpg

[5th_bike]

That "rubber hose/tube" is the spark plug wire. You can just pull it straight (along its length axis) off the spark plug to have a better look. [Note: If you ever should unscrew the spark plug, you probably will at some point - clean around it first, otherwise dirt/sand could fall into the cylinder and cause major damage.]

You see the dark bolts - near the top of the picture, on the right, and one on the left, hiding behind the black chrome-piece-holder - those are amongst the ones that you need to torque. There should be more of them, not on the picture.
Do you have a torque wrench? If not, do get one -they're already for around $25 at sears, with a needle that indicates the force. These small bolts do not require much force, but do require the right torque.

Do *not* over tighten with or without a torque wrench... you will ruin the thread$$$$$ in the head !

I have the same leak on my 2001 and it is coming from the valve cover, but the leak is so slow that I'm planing to wait until it becomes a problem
The valve covers have no gaskets, but a rubber o-ring. Just order a new one and that leak will be fixed. Or, there could be some dirt at the existing one, or the torque on the valve cover bolts is too low.

[antipeterleague]

Damn looks like I'll need to remove the tank for this. What do I do afterwards though? Is the leak coming from this spark plug wire or could it be coming from elsewhere in that nook? Also what is the proper torque for tightening those bolts? Is thÃ*y all I need to do? What can I use to clean up the mess left behind? Sorry for all the questions.

[OldNTired]

Damn looks like I'll need to remove the tank for this. What do I do afterwards though? Is the leak coming from this spark plug wire or could it be coming from elsewhere in that nook? Also what is the proper torque for tightening those bolts? Is thÃ*y all I need to do? What can I use to clean up the mess left behind? Sorry for all the questions.

STOP!
Before you do anything else,
download the manual from this site, and
at least get familiar with what terms you are using,
where certain parts are located, and get at least a
general feel for what you are working with.
It also lists ALL torque specs that you will need.
I can see nothing but disaster in the future
without some knowledge on your side.
Not trying to be mean, or to insult you,
but most folks on here use the manual a lot
and it only makes you smarter and the 'fix'
happen a lot sooner and better.
We are all eager to help you,
but you need to do your part as well.
Even if you take the bike to a garage sometime in the future,
the knowledge will help keep you from getting ripped off.

[alantf]

Is the leak coming from this spark plug wire

No. The spark plug wire is what it says it is. A wire (cable) carrying electrical current to the spark plug.

[antipeterleague]

I thought I had the manual but the one posted here is way more in depth! Thanks for the tip oldntired

And thanks for clearing that up alantf

[GZ250]

Again the thing is to clean and get rid of the old junk and oil residue and then you will be able to figure out where the leak is. use kerosene oil and a brush to wash everything away. if you pull this black wire up, you will see a single spark plug. Clean this nook with the spark plug, head and fins, valve covers and all the area around. if you remove the tank you will see everything easily. After cleaning with oil you can wash with water or without that start the bike. It will burn the oil away and then you can go for the leak.


PS: it seems that you are very new to the machines or bike, so first get get used to the names and parts and then do anything. I would suggest do not try tightening even with a torque wrench at this stage. First clean the area and see if you can figure out yourself or get some help from a friend or a shop. It is very easy to ruin something. Careful learning is another thing.

[antipeterleague]

Great. I'll get on it after work and report back. Thanks a bunch!

[mrlmd1]

If you dust the area with talcum powder you can easily spot the exact location of an oil leak.

[antipeterleague]

Update: just sitting on my driveway after cleaning the area, riding around the block and a bit of revving, took the tank back off but no sign of any leak. Putting the tank back on for another run.

[antipeterleague]

If you dust the area with talcum powder you can easily spot the exact location of an oil leak.
What are the signs?

[Water Warrior 2]

If you dust the area with talcum powder you can easily spot the exact location of an oil leak.
What are the signs?
The talc with adhere to any oil deposit and likely change color.

[mrlmd1]

Everything else will have a light coat of white dust. You can plainly see the oil leak by a blackened area.

[antipeterleague]

Awesome I will apply the powder this evening and ride it a few days to see if this is a reoccurring issue. rode it twice yesterday with no signs of any oil. thanks again you've all been of great assistance.

[mrlmd1]

Your bike will have that nice powdery fresh smell too.
Just a very light dusting, don't pile it on.

[antipeterleague]

Update: finally signs of some leaking

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/punkbassist/ad0a64a4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/punkbassist/bee16f6f.jpg

Wha puzzles me though, is that if the leak is from that exhaust connection, it drips onto the fun below it which has no opening to reach the book where the spark plug is located.

[GZ250]

if you check my post "Two leaks and Two easy repairs" you will notice a lot of burnt oil on the fins and that was all coming from the leaking seal in the exhaust. It was hard to detect first and as i said when you are riding the air throws all the oil backwards on the head. I also had a lot of oil near the spark plug and how it reaches there I don't know. (may be The Thing likes that place to hide).

Before doing anything change the seals. They are easy and cheap.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5761 (http://gz250bike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5761) - Two leaks and Two easy repairs

[antipeterleague]

Wicked. Will buy the parts this week and go for the kill.

[OldNTired]

Wicked. Will buy the parts this week and go for the kill.


Since you are finally going to turn a wrench, why not get hold of
a torque wrench (you can find them as cheap as $10)
and tighten those head bolts at the same time?
Whether it is the exhaust seals or the seal at the head,
keeping those bolts torqued can't hurt. As a bonus, you
will learn a lot.
Good luck with it, let us know how it went.

[antipeterleague]

I definitely intended on doing that :p

[antipeterleague]

Update: got the parts. 4 bolts and 2 exhaust washers. Installed them and tightened bolts to torque spec (14nm). Now when I start the bike there's exhaust coming out from where the exhaust pipes are bored onto the engine. No signs of oil yet but just a bit of smoke. Is this normal?

[PimpS]

Antipeterleague, i can't help you with that, i'm putting my pics of my similar problem...
Today, on ,my Geezer, 2000, with 13480 km on it (put on 5300 km in 4 months of riding), which propably kind of shooked up the engine, found this:


http://s8.postimage.org/feb3gm4xd/Slika0141.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/feb3gm4xd/)

http://s8.postimage.org/rhgf46fzl/Slika0142.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/rhgf46fzl/)

http://s8.postimage.org/tnapyojg1/Slika0148.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/tnapyojg1/)

http://s8.postimage.org/hzgo44ub5/Slika0149.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/hzgo44ub5/)


The oil level is still ok, but i hope the leak is not from many places; it looks like the oil comes out from the center gasket (you can see the drops being made). I hope the gasket will be in my hands soon to fix it). What do you think?

Thank you all!

Take care!

[PimpS]

The exhaust pic:

[antipeterleague]

hey, hard to tell what yours is, but after i replaced the gaskets, i see no more oil leaking from the area (or anywhere else) all i noticed was on first startup a bit of exhaust fumes coming from the joint, but i figured it was just the gasket settling in. no more leaks, fumes, and the bike feels a bit more responsive.

[PimpS]

Cool! Good that you sort it out!

Mine case got a bit serious; in the morning when i checked the oil level, just after i started the GZ, was the oil level below LOW. I decided to go with a car. This evening a friend mechanic came by to check it, we didn't start the bike, oil level was a bit more than low. The difference was propably, cause when the engine was idling, while i was putting my gloves and helmet on, the oil went cruising through the engine... My explanation, or I was too nervous in the morning.
I told him, that i planned to leave to seaside again on the sunday (about 300 km) and he gave me some brake cleaner spray, to clean the oil, go and for the oil, put it in till Full, and go for a 50 km ride to check where and how many oil will come out.
If the level won't go down a lot, he said take 2 litres of oil and go for a cruise to seaside, but not full throttle in high rpm...
I already ordered the gasket, since the drops where a bit more on place where gasket is.
I'll see, i'll deal with it later tommorow...

[Water Warrior 2]

You are best off checking the oil in the morning when the bike is cold. All the oil runs down into the bottom overnight and gives you a more true level. Hold the bike upright and check the level. Do not check with the bike leaning on the side stand.
If you want to check the engine oil when the engine is hot and has been running for a while you must wait 3 minutes minimum for the oil to drain down.
You can check while sitting on the bike and using a telescoping mechanics mirror. Much safer and easier than kneeling down and balancing the bike.

[alantf]

I don't even do that. If I can see oil in the bottom of the glass, with the bike on the stand, I know that I can proceed to the next step. I grab the throttle & pull the bike upright. If I see oil shoot up the glass, I know I'm good to go. I do this every time I take the bike out of the garage, & the method's never let me down yet. :)

[Water Warrior 2]

I don't even do that. If I can see oil in the bottom of the glass, with the bike on the stand, I know that I can proceed to the next step. I grab the throttle & pull the bike upright. If I see oil shoot up the glass, I know I'm good to go. I do this every time I take the bike out of the garage, & the method's never let me down yet. :)
Simple and effective. KISS at it's best.

[PimpS]

Hello!

I have located the leak, I can't put the pictures, but I'll explain: the leak is around one of the top screws on the cilinder, i saw the leak, after i dislocated the chromed cosmetic cap above the cilinder. First filler up was 0,75 dcl of oil (from minimum to full). After 100km, the oil level is pretty the same as it was. I'm going for a ride tommorow on the concert and on sunday 300 km to croatian seaside. With oil in the bags of course ;)

Please enlighten me the KISS initials, i forgot.
Thanks and drive safe guys!

PimpS

[JWR]

Keep it simple, Stupid.

KISS

[PimpS]

OK! Thanks JWR!

So the news, after cca. 1000 km after filling up the oil, the situation with dirty oily fins is ok, oil is still just a little below the full mark. Seems like i have heated and run my bike a little bit too much on my first ride to sea side. It's going well, but I need to change oil next week, and i'll have check it out thouroughly. I am a happy cruiser! ;)

[rynr]

I've got experience with two GZ 125 and GZ 250. And GZs often have leaks on the left side of bike. My ex-125 had a leak under the head - when i was replacing cam shaft chain i put some serious red silicon (i don't know if i wrote it correctly english :) ). I've got a leak propably in the same place in actually GZ 250, and my girlfriend has too in 125 :). Tomorrow i'm going to do some stuff with engine (new clutch in 250, valve regulations and cylinder head inspection in both), so i hope i will find the leaks in both bikes :)

In every bike to aviod this situation you should keep mixture right (carb regulation) make sure that valve clearance is correct.

antipeterleague - blue burned exhaust may be an effect of burning oil or overheating engine - overheating may cause leaks.

I don't actually know how periodic inspection looks like in other countries, but in Poland every bike must be taken to vehicle control station where bikes are inspected once a year. It's a possiblity to make carb regulation with a machine that inspects fumes and it's free when you have a valid inspection stamp. It can't be done wrong - you're turning mixture screw to have correct ratio on screen :)

PS check if spark plug isn't lossy. :)

[PimpS]

Funny! These leaks happened after the valves were set by mechanic, but not to make him quilty alone, after this service i made some serious almost 1000 km, with top speed, long rides of 220 kms, 70 % time between 100 and 120 km/h in a hot mediterranean weather (38 degrees celsius and more)... I'll have it inspect it, as soon as my mechanic will have time...
Thanks Rynr! Good luck tommorrow!

[rynr]

Our GZ's like colder temperatures, in 20 degrees they run the best :)

PS. Consider Motul 300V Factory Line 100% synthetic oil.

[Water Warrior 2]

Funny! These leaks happened after the valves were set by mechanic, but not to make him quilty alone, after this service i made some serious almost 1000 km, with top speed, long rides of 220 kms, 70 % time between 100 and 120 km/h in a hot mediterranean weather (38 degrees celsius and more)... I'll have it inspect it, as soon as my mechanic will have time...
Thanks Rynr! Good luck tommorrow!
Oh my, I think you were pushing the bike pretty hard. An air cooled bike running maximum or near maximum will not be a happy bike at those temps.

[PimpS]

We live, we learn! I hope i'll have him cured... I really like my PimpSerS, week ago i went for a ride with my friend, who has Bonneville, and GZ was going a ok, with the pace, but driving uphill, you see he's only 250 and Bonneville 800...

[rynr]

both leaks found in 125 and 250

[antipeterleague]

Another week, another leak. This time somewhere different than what I initially fixed. Seems like its coming somewhere in the middle of the engine block

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/punkbassist/122A11D0-9D80-4A0B-894C-2AD6CE80C1D9-26681-0000136DBA8BD622.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/punkbassist/FA546F56-7AB3-479B-AEEE-15F784344137-26681-0000136DC06E8FFA.jpg

There is a screw and nut hanging upside down in the middle of the block at the front, it seems to be covered in oil. Any clues? Maybe time to bring it into the shop :(

[blaine]

Make sure that nuts is tight as it has a habit of loosing up. :) :cool:

[antipeterleague]

Just to confirm we're talking about the same thing here, in the first photo, the screw with a nut around it is located just above that opening that looks to be splattered with oil?

[rynr]

You have to disassembly head covers, clean the engine fins as much as you can. Then star t the engine, heat it up and look where it's leaking. If it's clean go for a ride and stop after a few killometers and look for changes - you can obviously ride without chrome head covers.

If you have almost whole cylinder covered with oil, you and we are not able to see where it's leaking. Sometimes oil comes higher than it leaks in the first place because GZ can provide better acceleration than gravity :)

If you replaced the gaskets, check valve covers and this cover that's taken off in third picture in my previous post. You can replace o-rings under valve covers anyway, cause they're cheap and it doesn't need much time to replace them.

[OldNTired]

Another week, another leak. This time somewhere different than what I initially fixed. Seems like its coming somewhere in the middle of the engine block

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/punkbassist/122A11D0-9D80-4A0B-894C-2AD6CE80C1D9-26681-0000136DBA8BD622.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/punkbassist/FA546F56-7AB3-479B-AEEE-15F784344137-26681-0000136DC06E8FFA.jpg

There is a screw and nut hanging upside down in the middle of the block at the front, it seems to be covered in oil. Any clues? Maybe time to bring it into the shop :(


That 'screw and nut' you seem to be speaking of is really a
cylinder head bolt. Some have mentioned that theirs is loose or missing.
Put on a nut, if yours is missing.
Torque it to 7 ft-lbs.
Hopefully that will take care of it, but if not I'd suspect a new
cylinder head gasket might be in order. Yes, you can do it yourself. :)
Between the manual, and an excellent write-up elsewhere in these forums,
I just did it and can offer some good tips, as can others here.
The gasket cost me just under $30 (WW - how much is that in metric? :) )
and make sure you use a good sealer; I used Hylomar, just under $10.

[alantf]

The gasket cost me just under $30 (WW - how much is that in metric? :) )


just under €23.98 :crackup

[Water Warrior 2]

Alantf strikes again. Good one.

[rynr]

Cylinder head bolts torque should be around 8-12 Nm, but it may not help even if torque is right.

[OldNTired]

The gasket cost me just under $30 (WW - how much is that in metric? :) )


just under €23.98 :crackup


You're too fast for me!! :Blink Good job.

[PimpS]

Guys! Do bolts (they hold cylinder halves together, see pictures from the past i post) which are on the top of the cylinder, behind the cosmetic chrome cover, have a gasket or i don't know how to say it, the thing, o-ring... to prevent oil leak? If so, does anybody know if it commonly used or you need original from suzuki?

Thanks!

PimpS

[OldNTired]

Guys! Do bolts (they hold cylinder halves together, see pictures from the past i post) which are on the top of the cylinder, behind the cosmetic chrome cover, have a gasket or i don't know how to say it, the thing, o-ring... to prevent oil leak? If so, does anybody know if it commonly used or you need original from suzuki?

Thanks!

PimpS

Uh, what???
First thing you do, is look at the manual and then the parts list, and
find out what you are talking about.
There are no 'halves' to the cyl head cover, cyl head, or cylinder.
If you are asking about between the cyl head cover and the cyl head,
no gasket, just a sealer.
If you mean between the cyl head and cylinder, yes, there is a gasket.
But there is no sense confusing you if we are talking about different things.
I'd like to help, but first I have to know what I am helping with.

[PimpS]

Nevermind! I hae checked and the pics i posted weren't the best ones. I saw that Rynr posted his pics and i beliee I have the same problem, like he did with the 125. It's propably a leak from tachometer, as he said, cause in my case it's very similar oil leak (the oil being colected around one of those screws), see page 2.
Sorry Old for my bad english.
Thanks and take care.

I think i'll have fun watching my mechanic at work...

PimpS

[alantf]

It's propably a leak from tachometer,

Can you clarify what you mean by tachometer. I think you've used the wrong word. A tachometer is a rev counter, which the GZ doesn't have. :)

[PimpS]

ok, then from the up left screw hole... ;)

[OldNTired]

ok, then from the up left screw hole... ;)

I would love to help, but now I am just more confused. What screw hole? Please, either find the part in the manual and tell me what it is,
OR post just ONE pic that shows the bolt.
There is one bolt on top of the engine cover that has a rubber gasket. Maybe the gasket is loose or bad.
There are two bolts coming down from the engine, one in front and one in back;
they are UNDER the cyl head. The front one is between the exhaust ports, the back one is under the intake port. These are cyl head bolts, and the nuts should be torqued to 7 ft-lb
(screw the metric!!!).
If it is not one of these, then tell or show us which one you mean.

[rynr]

It's propably a leak from tachometer,

Can you clarify what you mean by tachometer. I think you've used the wrong word. A tachometer is a rev counter, which the GZ doesn't have. :)

True, but GN250 has a tachometer and the same engine. I don't really know how it's made in earlier Japan-made GZ250 (1999-2003) but in older GZ125 there's a plugged tachometer hole. In some GZ250 bikes it could be done the same way. In my 250 hole is molded (i mean that there's the same shape but there's no hole anymore).


PimpS - send us some pictures, maybe we will be able to help. And see part names in parts manual to avoid missunderstanding.

[PimpS]

Rynr, believe it or not, i was writing you a pm to clarify this, but i was feeling too much annoying with myself.

From checking the construction picture (cylinder with a pointed spot of possible leak) of cylinder:



But going through my pics, I think that the cylinder head got a leak; check it... The bolt on some pics is the one pointed in schematics. I'm sure you old geezers know that... :)
http://s13.postimage.org/riljfvloz/Slika0162.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/riljfvloz/)

http://s13.postimage.org/uqq0sx7yr/Slika0171.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/uqq0sx7yr/)

http://s13.postimage.org/vhiqypac3/Slika0172.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/vhiqypac3/)

http://s13.postimage.org/c0y1c6f83/Slika0154.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/c0y1c6f83/)

http://s13.postimage.org/hqiva8as3/Slika0159.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/hqiva8as3/)


The oil leakage, after first finding and cleaning and 1500 km made, increased, judging by the oil drops on fins.

Thanks for your ideas and possible solutions...

PimpS

[rynr]

In my GZ 250 it looked similiar.

I believe that the leak is here. You can try to tighten cylinder head bolts, but don't turn them more than 12 Nm. It didn't help my GZ and propably won't help yours. You propably will be forced to disassembly cylinder head as you can see in one of my photos on page 2. That's only my predictions, so try to confirm this first by cleaning and looking what's hapenning when engine is running in the area I marked .

[PimpS]

Ok, thanks a lot.

[PimpS]

Rynr, i was in a hurry. Again thanks for advice. I've seen that in your case you used a seal paste... Tell me something: you propably took down the engine, to fix it? How long did it took to fix that? I believe when doing that i should be careful, cause if my memory serves me good, the head bolts are different in size and should be careful with no mixing them, when put together again...

Thanks for reply!

Drive safe!

PimpS

[OldNTired]

Rynr, i was in a hurry. Again thanks for advice. I've seen that in your case you used a seal paste... Tell me something: you propably took down the engine, to fix it? How long did it took to fix that? I believe when doing that i should be careful, cause if my memory serves me good, the head bolts are different in size and should be careful with no mixing them, when put together again...

Thanks for reply!

Drive safe!

PimpS


Yes, your memory is good, and you are right.
That kind of mistake cost me a bit of time; I 'assumed' they were all the same length and
started pulling them out and throwing them in a bag. It is an easy enough mistake to
recover from, but it is time wasted.
One thing you will want to know: the topmost cyl head cover bolt can not be removed while the cover is sitting flush on top of the cyl.
I just completely loosend it, then tilted the cover while I removed the bolt.
And do the opposite when replecing the cover.
If anyone has a better way, let me know.
I can't remember how long it took to remove it all, but it only took a bit over an hour (an hour and a half at most) to replace the head gasket, put sealer on the cover, bolt it together, and set the valves.

[PimpS]

Thank you Ol'n'T!

[rynr]

My friend actually did the most of the work, because i'd rather help someone who's experienced with engine fixing than doing it myself for first time :). We did it 2 maybe 3 hours. I suggest to do it with someone experienced who knows what to do.

Engine doesn't have to be taken off, just take away cylinder head-to-frame mounting (triangles with holes), and some obvious things like a tank, chrome head covers etc. As OldNTired said head bolts aren't all the same, but not everyone is other than rest, maybe you will remember which is which :). One of them has a washer that should be replaced. There are 2 head bolts under valve caps too. Oh, and about this one bolt - as OldNTired said, you have to place it in cover before you'll put it on engine.

Most of the time is taken by cleaning head to get rid of the old paste (cleaning). Don't scratch it with screwdriver or something sharp :). There's also an round plastic camshaft sealer that is needed to be cleaned too. After sealing everything you'll have to wait until it gets harder (to start the bike). Time length depends on type of sealing paste you're going to use. It usually takes couple of hours to get hard.

Engine could work a little different in first minutes after first start, but after them it should work normally. Maybe you'll experience slight power increase and better (healthier) engine sound.

PS. This repair is great occasion to look how camshaft and chain looks like. When my ex-GZ125 had been sealing (don't know if i used correct form :) ) it also came out that camshaft chain need to be replaced.

[jonathan180iq]

You guys are making my heart as happy as a pig wallowing in it's own feces!

http://cdn.melissaevans.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/happy-as-a-pig.jpg

[OldNTired]

My friend actually did the most of the work, because i'd rather help someone who's experienced with engine fixing than doing it myself for first time :). We did it 2 maybe 3 hours. I suggest to do it with someone experienced who knows what to do.

Engine doesn't have to be taken off, just take away cylinder head-to-frame mounting (triangles with holes), and some obvious things like a tank, chrome head covers etc. As OldNTired said head bolts aren't all the same, but not everyone is other than rest, maybe you will remember which is which :). One of them has a washer that should be replaced. There are 2 head bolts under valve caps too. Oh, and about this one bolt - as OldNTired said, you have to place it in cover before you'll put it on engine.

Most of the time is taken by cleaning head to get rid of the old paste (cleaning). Don't scratch it with screwdriver or something sharp :). There's also an round plastic camshaft sealer that is needed to be cleaned too. After sealing everything you'll have to wait until it gets harder (to start the bike). Time length depends on type of sealing paste you're going to use. It usually takes couple of hours to get hard.

Engine could work a little different in first minutes after first start, but after them it should work normally. Maybe you'll experience slight power increase and better (healthier) engine sound.

PS. This repair is great occasion to look how camshaft and chain looks like. When my ex-GZ125 had been sealing (don't know if i used correct form :) ) it also came out that camshaft chain need to be replaced.

Good job!!
Just one thing, maybe I put in a response to someone else, I can't remember,
but I suggested using Hylomar as the sealer. It dries quickly (very quickly), but stays flexible even after drying.