Front brake is stuck

[therockbg]

Hello guys and girls. A few days ago i changed my front brake pads with new ones so i can go to inspection ... sadly they said i need to change the brake disk too.
But i have a problem with my pads - they are stuck for the disk itself - the cylinder on the caliper does not really go back and the brakes are overheating ofcourse and that is a problem.
Has anybody had similar problem and how am i supposed to fix it ...

I think it might be important to say that i made a complete brake fluid bleed from scratch - everything was empty and full with air so i had to bleed them ofcourse ... could i have done something wrong with the air-bleeding too?
I also noticed that it was extremely hard to get the cylinder back in the caliper even when i got the brake lines off .... could this sticking be a problem from the caliper itself? Is there any way to find the problem easy enough?
Thanks in advance from one of the few GZ250 riders in Denmark.

[raul10141964]

open the bleeder, if the brake do not release rebuild or replace the caliper

[therockbg]

Ok i will try that, thanks mate :) i hope i will get it fixed with this, because the bike i got was complete shit and i had to rebuild most of it .... but now when i ride it - it is totally woth the time and money spent :)

[Road_Clam]

Hello guys and girls. A few days ago i changed my front brake pads with new ones so i can go to inspection ... sadly they said i need to change the brake disk too.
But i have a problem with my pads - they are stuck for the disk itself - the cylinder on the caliper does not really go back and the brakes are overheating ofcourse and that is a problem.
Has anybody had similar problem and how am i supposed to fix it ...

I think it might be important to say that i made a complete brake fluid bleed from scratch - everything was empty and full with air so i had to bleed them ofcourse ... could i have done something wrong with the air-bleeding too?
I also noticed that it was extremely hard to get the cylinder back in the caliper even when i got the brake lines off .... could this sticking be a problem from the caliper itself? Is there any way to find the problem easy enough?
Thanks in advance from one of the few GZ250 riders in Denmark.

Your issue is very common. What's happening is that moisture within the brake fluid has produced corrosion on the internals of the brake components. It's like human cancer. The corrosion has built up on the piston bores of the brake caliper and is causing the piston to stick and not retract away from the rotor. The only way to correct this is to dissasemble the caliper, and take a fine emery cloth and polish the piston bore, and flush the braking system. I always recommend you flush your brake systems every 5 years, as brake fluid eventually draws moisture.

[therockbg]

hmm ok i will clean it up. The problem occured after i flushed the old brake fluid and yes - it was old and shitty ... i don't think that the previous owner had changed it for at least 5-6 years .. :)

[Rookie Rider]

My front breqk feels different now. Like when i squeeze it, it feels like its skipping (so to speak) . Its not a smooth squeeze feeling. And the front end goes down even with a light easy squeeze of the front break.

[Water Warrior 2]

My front breqk feels different now. Like when i squeeze it, it feels like its skipping (so to speak) . Its not a smooth squeeze feeling. And the front end goes down even with a light easy squeeze of the front break.
A pulsing in the brake may be a sign that you aren't using it enough. The less I use the front brake the more deposits and rust/corrosion builds up. Try some hard speed reductions to burn off the deposits. You have to really warm things up.
A lot of folks tend to diagnos the pulsing as a warped disc but I think that is because they want to sell you a new disc and pads.
As for the forks going lower it may just be a reaction to the pulsing of the brake. Try the simple no cost solutions first. A long downhill at speed and avoiding imaginary suicidal forest rats should clear up the front brake and forks. It is also just good practice to keep your skills up to par.

[OldNTired]

[quote="Rookie Rider":sycur8q1]My front breqk feels different now. Like when i squeeze it, it feels like its skipping (so to speak) . Its not a smooth squeeze feeling. And the front end goes down even with a light easy squeeze of the front break.
A pulsing in the brake may be a sign that you aren't using it enough. The less I use the front brake the more deposits and rust/corrosion builds up. Try some hard speed reductions to burn off the deposits. You have to really warm things up.
A lot of folks tend to diagnos the pulsing as a warped disc but I think that is because they want to sell you a new disc and pads.
As for the forks going lower it may just be a reaction to the pulsing of the brake. Try the simple no cost solutions first. A long downhill at speed and avoiding imaginary suicidal forest rats should clear up the front brake and forks. It is also just good practice to keep your skills up to par.[/quote:sycur8q1]

"imaginary suicidal forest rats "?
Glad we don't have them down here in the States!
But we do, in a few areas, have 'zombie squirrels'
that drop on you from the trees
as you drive down the road...
But the rest sounds like good advice.

[Water Warrior 2]

Dumb a$$ deer with no sense.

[OldNTired]

Dumb a$$ deer with no sense.

Ah, yes. Those things seem like they are everywhere.
And lets not forget the humble turkey - I ran into one
of them two months after I moved into this house.
Luckily, I was driving a car.

I had this 'pulsing' problem once; it turned out to be
the brake line, it was old and soft. Not on the GZ Sometimes it would
temporarily collapse and the caliper could not retract.

[raul10141964]

My front brake was hard to control and some wd-40 make the difference

http://s15.postimage.org/70fgdbjyv/IMG_20120918_103911_copy.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/70fgdbjyv/)

[Rookie Rider]

i sprayed some wd-40 in there, feels better now.

[jonathan180iq]

One of the things that you guys who don't want to bleed your brakes can do in the interim (And you should learn to do it. It's incredibly easy once you wrap your head around it.) is go to the dollar store, buy a turkey baster, and suck out the fluid from your reservoir, leaving a small pool in the bottom so you don't allow any air into the lines. Then top off the reservoir with fresh fluid. You'll at least be putting a small portion of new fluid into the system.

This is the lazy ass redneck way of doing it. But it's better than nothing.

Seriously though, all you need to do a proper brake bleed is abour 30 cents worth of clear tubing from Home Depot, a wrench, some new fluid and about 8 minutes.

PROCEDURE:
Remove the lid from the reservoir.
Remove small portion of old fluid.
Refill with new fluid.
Sit on a stool in front of the bike, where one arm can reach the front brake.
Remove the dust cap for the caliper nipple
Slide clear tube over the nipple (That's what she said)
Slide your wrench onto the nipple (It's either 8mm or 10mm)
Squeeze brake lever and crack open the bleeder valve (nipple) at the same time.
Watch nasty looking syrup ooze out
Close bleeder valve
Release brake lever
REPEAT - UNTIL FLUID IS ALL NEW AND THERE ARE NO BUBBLES

NOTES:
Don't ever let the reservoir run dry
Run clear tube into a an old water bottle that has some brake fluid in the bottom so you don't suck air back into the system.

DONE.