Newbie Questions

[Miklo]

So I picked up my bike yesterday, and put a good 50 miles on the road before I went home for the night. Overall, very nice. I know some of these questions have been asked before, but when crusing at higher speeds, I had trouble getting to 70mph. The posted limit was 65mph so I was good. I take it that this is normal? Secondly, as far as shifting speeds, I am pretty much good. However I did read in another posting that riding at 65mph in fourth gear was acceptable. Is that correct? I can see downshifting to pick up more speed or for an incline, but for crusing? Also the kill switch, should this just be left on at all times, or should I use it for normal operations. I thought it was for emergency use?

[blaine]

So I picked up my bike yesterday, and put a good 50 miles on the road before I went home for the night. Overall, very nice. I know some of these questions have been asked before, but when crusing at higher speeds, I had trouble getting to 70mph. The posted limit was 65mph so I was good. I take it that this is normal? Secondly, as far as shifting speeds, I am pretty much good. However I did read in another posting that riding at 65mph in fourth gear was acceptable. Is that correct? I can see downshifting to pick up more speed or for an incline, but for crusing? Also the kill switch, should this just be left on at all times, or should I use it for normal operations. I thought it was for emergency use?
60 to 65 is the comfort zone.4th would be fine for passing or a hill,I would no want to stay there very long as you are getting close to redline.I never use the "kill switch" to shut the bike off.You can forget to shut your key off and kill the battery.I see people doing this all the time:shut the kill switch off while coasting to a stop,and sit there talking with the key on.
:) :cool:

[mrlmd1]

65 for most of these bikes is a good cruising speed, 70 may be pushing it a little if you expect to maintain that speed and it all depends on your weight, wind, etc.
65 in 4th gear is over-revving the engine and should be used for maintaining speed up an incline if you need it, not for long term riding at that speed. The bike has just so much horsepower and you don't get any extra over-revving the engine, just more wear and tear on it.
Some people use the kill switch to turn off the engine, others use the key - your choice. Just make sure it's in the Run position if you want to start the bike.,

[Water Warrior 2]

So I picked up my bike yesterday, and put a good 50 miles on the road before I went home for the night. Overall, very nice. I know some of these questions have been asked before, but when crusing at higher speeds, I had trouble getting to 70mph. The posted limit was 65mph so I was good. I take it that this is normal? Secondly, as far as shifting speeds, I am pretty much good. However I did read in another posting that riding at 65mph in fourth gear was acceptable. Is that correct? I can see downshifting to pick up more speed or for an incline, but for crusing? Also the kill switch, should this just be left on at all times, or should I use it for normal operations. I thought it was for emergency use?
Running at 65 in forth is not really a good idea. Any sustained speed like that in forth is very near redline for the engine and it will suffer with prolonged high rpm. If 5th won't pull you along at 65 then you may want to slow down a bit and run in 4th.
You will soon realize the GZ is happiest at 60/65(5th gear) on a good flat surface. Headwinds and any slight grade will slow it down noticeably. The GZ is what it is. Don't expect great amounts of power or speed because it was not built with that in mind. Learn to appreciate the bike for it's ability to haul you around reliably at reasonable speeds. Develop your skills and gain experience with the bike. If in a season you want to venture out onto freeways you will want a bigger bike to ride. Stay off freeways with the GZ as much as possible, 2 lane highways are a bit slower and more to it's liking. You have a great first bike that won't let you down with proper care and riding.

[Miklo]

thanks for the response

[greatmaul]

I always keep the kill switch on, but it's up to you. I also find that 65mph is pretty much my max speed, in 4th, and 55-60 in 5th, unless I get behind a big rig (I don't mind the buffetting. You get used to it and it really doesn't hurt anything.) and then I can cruise at 65-70 in 5th gear.

Once I'm in a wind free area, like surrounded by tall buildings, or if there's a tail wind, I can also cruise 65-75 in 5th gear.

Since I spend so much time on the freeway, I'm almost always searching for a big truck to follow.

[blaine]

I get behind a big rig (I don't mind the buffetting. You get used to it and it really doesn't hurt anything.) and then I can cruise at 65-70 in 5th gear.

Once I'm in a wind free area, like surrounded by tall buildings, or if there's a tail wind, I can also cruise 65-75 in 5th gear.

Since I spend so much time on the freeway, I'm almost always searching for a big truck to follow.
I've stated this before and I'll state it again.NOT a good idea.If your following close to a big rig & the recap comes off a tire (it happens all the time) you will not have any time to avoid disaster.I don't like following them even in my cage.Any amount of time along side them is a bad idea also.
:) :cool:

[mrlmd1]

You'll also never see the 2X4 or other debris laying in the roadway the truck went over or comes flying into your face. You need to keep 100' or more behind a big rig on the road - at least 2-3 secs. away.

[Water Warrior 2]

Never never never follow a big rig. As stated above, a recap is really bad when it lets go and those chunks of rubber are heavy and travelling with a tremendous amount of destructive force behind them. I've seen what happens when chunks hit the front of a pickup and a bike rider will suffer far more.
Another good reason to avoid big rigs is the fact that when their wheels straddle a road kill critter you are right there to take the hit. It all happens too fast to trust your instincts and reaction time.
Your field of vision is so impaired you are effectively blind to anything except the big rig in front of you. Drafting a vehicle is best left to a race track and a controlled environment. Our hiways and biways are not the place to draft.

[mole2]

As far as the kill switch - they teach you in the MSF BRC to use it to turn the bike off and then the key. That is the way I do it most of the times. Sometimes I'll put the kickstand down in gear (when stopped) and then I'll turn the kill switch off and the key off.

Another thing with the big rigs is they have air brakes. They will stop quite fast and before you know it you're in the back of them like a bug on a windshield.


:)

[greatmaul]

Ok, those are all very good points, and I didn't think about the recaps. I try not to spend any time next to them, and when I say behind them, I'm certainly not illegally close, because there are CHP everywhere.

I do like to stay about 2 1/2 to 3 seconds behind them, enough so that I can always see one of their mirrors, and so by definition they can see me, because I don't want the drivers to think that I'm drafting on their bumpers.

That said, you're still right. Visibility *is* reduced. I'll ponder this next time and see how the "distance behind" vs "visibility" vs "wind protection" variables factor out.

[Water Warrior 2]

Another thing about big rigs. Every so often in a parking lot a rock will become wedged between the dual tires. It will stay there until it is flung out by centrifugal force. That rock is like a cannonball headed your way. I have experienced this and believe me that is a pure pucker moment to remember. I was in a pick up at the time and it took the hit but it could easily have come through the windshield and killed me.

[Skunkhome]

Even in city traffic it does not pay to follow behind a big rig because they limit your ability to see and be seen. Big rigs often run red lights and if you are following them you will not see the red until it is too late to stop. That is bad enough but if the cross traffic races off the line to get through the intersection they may not see you running the light behind the truck and only disaster can follow. If I find myself a behind a big rig I usually give them a lot of room even when I am in a 4-wheeler.

[hedgehog002]

Hey there. So today was my first "real ride" as far as I'm concerned. I was on main streets the whole time and not just riding in my neighbourhood. I do have a question regarding making left hand turns and down shiftin. For example, I was traveling on a straight path at 45 mph. Ahead of me was an intersection with a dounle lane left hand turn and the light was green. Now, I applied brakes well before the turn and down shifted into 3rd from 4th. My turn was horrible! Way too wide; I wound up in the bicycle lane. So the question is how far down should I down shift to make a good turn and should I do the same on freeways? My other question is what gear should I be in when driving around town in normal traffic and at whay speeds should I be switching gears?

[peanut]

I just got my bike and am having the same wide turn fun hedgehog. I found a link to 'the cornering bible' on youtube someplace in the forum here. I'd suggest a look, its a good reminder of some basics. I found that I had forgotten WHAT coutnerstearing was (scary, I know) and I wasn't looking close enough to where I wanted to end up after my turn. Good luck!

[mrlmd1]

You have to remember, the bike will go where you look.
Look into the turn, around the turn, turn your head and your gaze to where you want to go and then the bike will follow.
If you are looking at some other obstacle, like with target fixation, that's where the bike will go and you will hit it.
And if you are turning wide, you have to turn (or press on) the bar more to lean the bike farther over to get through the turn.
Do NOT hit the brake, just lean and turn more. If you have to hit the brake for whatever reason in a turn, you have to straighten out the bars and steer straight ahead, otherwise the bike WILL go down.
Practice, practice, then practice some more, that's the only way you will learn after reading all about the theory of riding.
And get Hough's book, Proficient Motorcycling, and More Proficient Motorcycling. Also, Total Control by Parks and A Twist of the Wrist by Cole.
You can never read or learn too much.

[raul10141964]

The gz come from factory tune for emitions and that make the engine to run hot and lost power.
you can impruve the cruse speed with som tuning


i have
16 t
140 main jet
2.5 turns on the pilot
unrestricted air cleaner
cruse speed at 70-75mi an with good conditions 80 mi
with out the carburator mods do not go over 60 mi

mode air filter ( do not mode the filter without change the main jet )
http://s18.postimg.org/sneq60k8n/IMG_20 ... 110644.jpg (http://s18.postimg.org/sneq60k8n/IMG_20120830_110644.jpg)

check this post to
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6170 (http://www.gz250bike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6170)